The true-track has molded roadbed base attached, it is much more expensive due to this. This is what has the click locking piece on the ends. That base makes it difficult to match any track other than true-track. Since you are just starting out, I would recommend just using the standard Atlas track. I would also recommend trying to use at least a few pieces of flex-track and reduce track connections. As long as everything is the same code, 100, 83, 70, it will join with any other manufacturers track of the same code. I have over 115 Atlas switches, both #4 and #6's, mostly custom line with just a couple of snap switches. I don't have any issues with them, as things like exact tie spacing and spike details are inconsequential to me. Yes, as Chris posted there are sometimes issues but they are all easily solved, in my case maybe 6-7 of them. Disclaimer: I use ground throws on all of mine so positive tight contact is assured.
A 4' x 8' plywood is how most of us started, but it can be limiting and many eventually go with some form of "around the walls" layout. But get your feet wet with that and go from there. plenty of folks here to assist with any and all questions.
That's my 2¢.
By the way, welcome aboard.