New Layout started, Central Midland

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3

35tac

Wayne B
After about a twenty year absence from trains my son and I have selected the Central Midland by Atlas. We are going HO. Started the bench work and its framed. Our previous experiance was American Flyer S and a flat layout with 3/8 ply and Homasote. We are going to use the 3/8 ply with Homasote on the ply. Scenic is our choice for roadbed and we are doing code 83. Any thoughts about the Homasote or should we just put the scenic foam roadbed on the ply. What should we do to attach the homasote to the ply and like wise the roadbed to the Homasote. How about adhearing the track and switches to the roadbed. Comments please.
Wayne
 
I wouldn't use homasote as a layout underlayment. It has really been made obsolete by extruded foam. You can get this in widths up to 2" at many building supply scores. It's cheaper than homasote, much lighter, and cuts a lot easier. If you use the 2" sheet, it's easy to glue to the plywood by using either latex caulk or somethng like Liquid Nails. I use latex caulk in tubes becuase it seems to works as well and it's less expensive. You can then glue your WS roadbed right to the foam using the same latext caulk and then glue the track to the roadbed using the same latex caulk. The combination of latex foam, WS roadbed, and the use of latex caulk for adhesive has made it much easier to build a layout with a lot less mess.
 


Wayne it is available in a variety of sizes,
That's what I'd go with as well, homasote dust is n a s t y !
When working with the foam rub a bounce sheet on yourself and hang the remainder off your belt, keeps you from looking like the abominable snowman when you're done!
 
Some adhesives will eat through foam. Make sure the adhesive or caulk is made for foam. 1/2 inch is a little thin though. An inch or two is even better. With 2" you can build rivers and valleys lower than the track. Also, you can plant your trees a little deeper. With two inch, you can eliminate the plywood if you want.
 
Thanks for the input. We are relooking the issue and will move to foam. Question is how thick. We want to keep the 3/8 ply and add on to it with the foam.
 
If you want scenic features like bridges, lakes and streams, 1/2" is much too thin. The best choice is a singe layer of 2" thick extruded foam. If you can only get 1" foam, you can glue the two layers together with latex foam. Thicker foam gives you a lot more scenery options with what's otherwise a flat layout. I used 1" foam on my layout and really regret not using 2" foam.
 
Well our layout will not be flat so we are doing the risers with the plywood. I assumed we would lay the foam on the raised plywood than attach the roadbed than track I assume we should use latex caulk to attach the foam and roadbed. What about the track and by the way if we want to put our switch machines under the plywood what is the limit on thickness. Please comment.
Tahnks
Wayne
 
35tac said:
After about a twenty year absence from trains my son and I have selected the Central Midland by Atlas. We are going HO. Started the bench work and its framed. Our previous experiance was American Flyer S and a flat layout with 3/8 ply and Homasote. We are going to use the 3/8 ply with Homasote on the ply. Scenic is our choice for roadbed and we are doing code 83. Any thoughts about the Homasote or should we just put the scenic foam roadbed on the ply. What should we do to attach the homasote to the ply and like wise the roadbed to the Homasote. How about adhearing the track and switches to the roadbed. Comments please.
Wayne
Click to expand...

I was thinking of doing the central midland in N. Does anyone have any photos of the CM in N or HO?
 
Wayne,
Sorry I missed your reply. Yes, you've got ot right. No matter if it's flat playwood or risers, you want to glue a layer of foam to each surface so you have a smooth transition. One of th advantages of foam is the ability to to carve it in a shape that gives you the best transistions of grades.

I'm not sure about hwat your question is on tracks. You would use latex foam to glue the roadbed to the foam and then the tracks to the roadbed. As far a sunder the table mounted switch machines, that varies depending on the type of machine but almost all swithc machines will work regardless of the thickness. You may need to replace the tiebar wire with a longer one made of piano wire and make a small groove in the foam for the wire to have free motion but it's done all the time and isn't a big issue.

Sinebar, do you mean pictures of the completed layout? No idea there, maybe someone else here knows.
 


UP2CSX said:
Wayne,
Sorry I missed your reply. Yes, you've got ot right. No matter if it's flat playwood or risers, you want to glue a layer of foam to each surface so you have a smooth transition. One of th advantages of foam is the ability to to carve it in a shape that gives you the best transistions of grades.

I'm not sure about hwat your question is on tracks. You would use latex foam to glue the roadbed to the foam and then the tracks to the roadbed. As far a sunder the table mounted switch machines, that varies depending on the type of machine but almost all swithc machines will work regardless of the thickness. You may need to replace the tiebar wire with a longer one made of piano wire and make a small groove in the foam for the wire to have free motion but it's done all the time and isn't a big issue.

Sinebar, do you mean pictures of the completed layout? No idea there, maybe someone else here knows.
Click to expand...

Well I guess any pics would be good but completed would be great. The atlas books show an illestration but can't tell much from that.
 
Central Midland uncoupling question

We have moved forward on the Central Midland. Track is down on Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. We changed our minds and installed all Tortoise switch machines, that was back breaker tacking out the Atlas machines and installing the Torti. Better planning next time. We are working on a panel and will start wiring switch machines shortly. Question came up on uncoupling. We went with code 83 so the Kadee magnets wont fit, besides they are just to big. I read a nice article in Craftsman about using small magnets for uncoupling and it makes a lot of sense. However if we do install these how can we mark the uncoupling areas for good opreration. Any prototypical suggestions?
Thanks
Wayne
 
The best markers I've seen for magnets is railroad ties. Glue three or four them in a pile and then glue them next to each magnet. Looks like they are there for tie replacement so it looks both prototypical and not intrusive.
 
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