Narrow Gauge rolling stock 3D printing.

[Hutch]

This is exactly what I want to do when I get my 3d printer this winter. Would you be interested in selling the file?

 

[747flier]

The paint I used was Trucolor Acrylics which can usually be shot (airbrush) right out of the bottle. The roof is what they call "Caboose Red" and the sides "Pullman green". The window material is a plexiglass which gives a nice flat glass look. I didn't print the trucks myself, they are printed, but fellow WP modeler Rob Bell suggested these, off of Ebay. With the Kadee wheel sets they roll fabulously. The total car weight is about 3 OZ, about half that from a strip of steel bar stock glued to the top of the floor.

A variation I did of this car is the WP&YR 222 car which had smooth panels bolted on over the wood. In addition to this series of car (I printed several) I have done the 203 and 207 baggage cars.

Now all I have to do is have some track to run them on!

Cheers: Tom

 

[747flier]

Here is the WP&YR #207 bag car. Instead of the steel bar on the floor, this one is weighted with a couple of .45 cal 240 grain lead bullets. Color is the same as the 218 passenger car, Pullman Green and caboose red roof.

 

[Snowman]

Here is the WP&YR #207 bag car. Instead of the steel bar on the floor, this one is weighted with a couple of .45 cal 240 grain lead bullets. Color is the same as the 218 passenger car, Pullman Green and caboose red roof. View attachment 168589

The Black and White photography gives it all a special flavor, which is of course why you do it--you know it. Very "period," and Ansel Adams would approve.

Now...how do I attach a B&W smiley to the end of this post?

 

[Snowman]

Unfortunately DSM is issuing a version 6 (V6) which has some reduced features such as being able to export 2D files as .ORF. So I prefer V5, but that is no longer available and may have its activation jerked. We shall see. For decal printing, my art work work is just great, but not happy with the material I am trying. I use PHOTOSHOP. I did use DSM to design some graphics that I printed on my Cameo (Cricut like) machine for cutting lettering from thin adhesive vinyl or as stencils.



For the fluid White pass script logos I traced the .jpeg image from a photo and exported as a 2D design file to the Cameo and filled it in and exported as a .jpeg of the appropriate color for a decal.

DSM allows a very size accurate creation and a re size to the nearest percent. However as to 3D printing, the slicer (Chitubox) allows independent accurate sizing to dimensions in all three axis.

Tom

[...]

(quoting you): "DSM can import image files as a background. I did this with projects as the hopper cars, duce n half, jeep etc where I had 2D drawings. As this is a background, it's useful for scaling and arranging the 3D on top of it."

[...]

^^^ Yes, and that's exactly why I want them. To easily build the 3Ds directly off the 2D plans. If you AREN'T already doing your own this way--assuming 2D plans are available, of course--then you would be making things harder than they have to be.

All of which does assume that the 2D plans (hopefully 3 elevations) are accurate. But if they are not, or if your eye sees something else, you can just adjust your own 3D models. Or even the 2D plans, which is particularly easy if they are your own plans.

Or even don't bother at all, skip the plans entirely and just go with your eye.*

[*But it's hard to work back from that to 2D plans unless you take the time to draw up those plans yourself. If you aren't working from an actual 2D plan, then creating one is all up to you.]

Dunno about you, but I actually see plan errors pretty often, and so I make adjustments according to what MY eyes tell me. However, it's also nice if you can subsequently work thing backward too: Adjust your 3D model over the 2D plan...look it over until you say either "that's perfect-I nailed it," or just "that's good enough," but then be able to export from your 3D model (hopefully) 3 different plan views* back out again.

[sometimes loosly called elevations, and not plan views in architecture]

----------------

So would you know if a 3D model [in DesignMechanical] can be reduced back to a new series of plans...and if they can be exported back out again as a .jpg or a .bmp?

 

[747flier]

I posted some 2D views of the 3D models here earlier of one of my Cabooses, however I did that as a screen shot. It does not export as a .JPEG though it can export as a 3D .PDF. My experience is that these cannot be re imported to DSM after conversion.

I had some really good drawings of a C&S Gondola from NGSLG recent issue from which I made a nice drawing and model. Some drawings are only good enough to get basic dimensions, this was typical of a lot of the WP&Y passenger equipment. Close attention has to be paid to the type of curvatures of the roof ends, primarily an eyeball thing.

As far as period evidence goes, perhaps we should do our period layouts only in Black and White. Apparently back in the day of B&W movies, all the costumes were in B&W? One could make a B&W Smiley in Photoshop.

 

[747flier]

Sometimes plans aren't available to me.... I'm not a rivet counter and never will be. If the windows etc which I have scaled from photos are a couple of inches off, here is a dime to call someone who cares. Ships and rail cars change over their lifespan, we do the best we can! I do this because I enjoy it! There are people who research the "chit" out of this stuff but make nothing. They aren't perfect, but better than any other since there aren't others.

Apologies for the rant, cheers to all!

 

[747flier]

Under the Wah-Hail clause of modeling.... I have been trying to lay track on a mostly previously destroyed small layout. Previously I had run my MDC 2-8-0 on this with its 15" radius curves. Turns out (I should have known this) that my three K-27's like something more like a 20" radius. Not all is lost, I can add a foot to the front framework and expand the curves at each end. Lot of work? well, yes!

Any rural antecedents might have remarked... "Wah Hail".

 

[Snowman]

I posted some 2D views of the 3D models here earlier of one of my Cabooses, however I did that as a screen shot. It does not export as a .JPEG though it can export as a 3D .PDF. My experience is that these cannot be re imported to DSM after conversion.

I had some really good drawings of a C&S Gondola from NGSLG recent issue from which I made a nice drawing and model. Some drawings are only good enough to get basic dimensions, this was typical of a lot of the WP&Y passenger equipment. Close attention has to be paid to the type of curvatures of the roof ends, primarily an eyeball thing.

As far as period evidence goes, perhaps we should do our period layouts only in Black and White. Apparently back in the day of B&W movies, all the costumes were in B&W? One could make a B&W Smiley in Photoshop.

Helpful, as much as it seems limiting. So...let's say I export a 2D "plan/elevation" from a 3D model back out. You say I can't reverse that process, and I get it, but I wonder if I can't circumvent that by renaming the filespec or by converting.

Why would I want to? And isn't this all just an excercise in mental entanglment? A: It could be a mere entanglement yes. But there are also questions of archiving data (or drawings) and how to do so WITHOUT using the cloud.

If my livelihood relies solely on cloud based .jpgs, or .pdfs, etc, I won't rest well at night. I want HARD copies, and I literally mean Pen-on-Vellum drawings for some of these, at least in my case.

Re: The White Pass When I spoke of 2D drawings, I hope you didn't miss the suggestion that YOU might pen such drawings yourself. Why not you? After all, how many WPY modelers are there, and how many fewer have actually built WPY cars or equipment? And how many fewer have focused on the details.

The fact is: If YOU are the guy who narrows the focus on something first, YOU are going to be considered the go-to-guy down the road. Once in a great while some guy who has official railroad drawings will pop up and call you out. Fair enough. Let's see what he has actually got, then.

In a perfect world, none of this would be a contest. Contests have their places, yes, and I love them quite often...but when it comes to sharing key, basic data, it should be done for the benefit if all...before it's lost. And it's all too easily lost because those who come into possession of it don't recognize or appreciate its value. So it gets tossed into the bin...and no one realizes something important has just been lost.

 

[Snowman]

I posted some 2D views of the 3D models here earlier of one of my Cabooses, however I did that as a screen shot. It does not export as a .JPEG though it can export as a 3D .PDF. My experience is that these cannot be re imported to DSM after conversion.

I had some really good drawings of a C&S Gondola from NGSLG recent issue from which I made a nice drawing and model. Some drawings are only good enough to get basic dimensions, this was typical of a lot of the WP&Y passenger equipment. Close attention has to be paid to the type of curvatures of the roof ends, primarily an eyeball thing.

As far as period evidence goes, perhaps we should do our period layouts only in Black and White. Apparently back in the day of B&W movies, all the costumes were in B&W? One could make a B&W Smiley in Photoshop.

I've been all black and white for years. So my family tells me, anyway.

[No we don't! Yes, you do! No...we don't. YOU do! No we don't!]

 

[747flier]

I was a fairly early adopter of digital photography and printing. For some time now relatively archival inks and papers have been available, though they may not have the possible centuries longevity of Silver Gelatin prints. The important ones I have prints, hard copies, I also have a rather large library of real books, a technology independent of any outside sources. I do not and do not ever anticipate using the Cloud for anything. First of all I lack bandwidth to transfer terabytes anywhere, second of all are elements of privacy and control. I laugh when I hear adds fro digitization of your old photos etc. The parts I laugh about is the longevity and fast obsolescence of many viewing technologies.

In making a 2D hard copy of anything, all the 3D info is ejected in making a hard copy. A little like taking a photo of someone and recreating them from the hard copy. I can easily make 2D drawings, even hard copes of 3D projects by using an elevation view, a print screen and open it in photoshop. I make most of my models from photos which may not show all sides, certainly they lack all but basics as far as dimensions, and even these may be illegible. Any good rivet counter can pick bones, I'm not a rivet counter so these are for my use. I have no desire to try to convert a hobby to a business, I've done that before.

I don't always trust drawings, these are sometimes made from photos just like I work with them and opinions are involved. Existing models and restorations are also often suspect. I had a notorious rivet counter in the ship world go after my 1:120 APA USS Randall model for having a broad boot topping but hull red on the bottom and no bilge keels. For evidence he presented photos of other models, which to my mind is no evidence at all. It has been a popular model to view on that particular forum with nearly 50,000 views. The evidence I used was not conclusive but pretty good and I have been aboard enough warships of the era to have a decent idea of how things were done.

So if my windows might be a couple of inches too tall (maybe) and not the same height as a Blackstone D&RGW coach (not the same item) I really don't care a rat's adz.

The whole point is to be creative and enjoy what I am doing!

Cheers: Tom

 

[747flier]

For a while I have had a couple of printed flatcar frames, sans deck and a piece of the steel bar stock that I used on the passenger car floors for weight. It occurred that I could cut away some of the stringers on the flat car frame and insert the bar stock as a weight. I taped the top of the car, placed it upside down with the bar stock in place and added epoxy, yielding a 1.5 oz car less deck, trucks and couplers. Hopefully a completed car will weigh in around two ounces, an acceptable weight for a narrow gauge car. Now to come up with some decking material!

Cheers: Tom

 

[Snowman]

I know this isn't a 3D printer thread, but since we did briefly discuss them above I'll mention this:

@zzr1200guy That new Anycubic Photon Mono m5s (the 12K printer I mentioned in post #135 with the 19 micron pixels size (X-Y)), can be purchased until May 25 for an early bird price of only $399, vs the $539 regular price that'll follow. I bought my Mono X (a 4K) at an early bird price two years ago for $799, so this is, literally, a steal. I'm almost tempted to buy two, in fact.

One reviewer "Uncle Jessy" (always check YouTube before pulling the trigger), also says their latest slicer is fast now, and quite good even with the default settings. That'd be nice too if it works with my older printer as well.

I THINK you'll want some 12K resin too, which is apparently quite thin and watery compared to others. They'll have a couple other bundle items too, of course, but if you aren't saving much or any on those, maybe just wait a bit until you get familiar with the process.

[FWIW, I have NO connection at all to Anycubic]

 

[747flier]

The resin that I use most often is Rapid Black, water washable, from Phrozen. It's quite watery which I think allows a finer detail with less dispersion. I'n not convinced as yet that the finer pixel sizes produce a similarly finer model. The mechanical limitations of the jack screw and stepper motors are still a vertical issue. I'll be pleased when the printers begin doing a better job on the bottoms.

 

[Snowman]

Could you elaborate on what you mean by "the bottoms?" Are you perhaps talking about the first layer or layers and either the longer print time or the "elephant's foot" (where they print a bit wider than the other layers might)?

BTW, I did just buy that new printer ^^^. Won't arrive until the end of July, but that's fine. My to-do list is so long I might never even unbox it anyway.

 

[747flier]

Try printing a cube on supports and let me know how the bottom comes out. That's the major issue with 3D designs, sometimes requiring several pieces or inconvenient orientation. A ships mast or boom usually needs to be printed near vertical rather than horizontal, taking all day to print to get somewhere near round and not warp into a banana shape.

 

[Snowman]

Try printing a cube on supports and let me know how the bottom comes out. That's the major issue with 3D designs, sometimes requiring several pieces or inconvenient orientation. A ships mast or boom usually needs to be printed near vertical rather than horizontal, taking all day to print to get somewhere near round and not warp into a banana shape.

Not entirely clear why a cube on supports would do that--I can see why a cube printed flat on the platen would--but I'll take your word for it.

If you ARE talking about the flared out elephant's foot, Nerdtronic @ YouTube does have a video about it, and he also offers a free-app to help fix the issue*. Basic idea is to design the lowest layers a bit smaller accounting for anti-aliasing and on the presumption they will "grow" back to the overall dimensions of the rest of the print.

*I know I mentioned this somewhere, but not sure if it was here.

 

[747flier]

Anything with a bottom (platter side) gets the droopies and certainly not a dead flat face like the top side (away from the platter). Even with good supports. A major limitation of 3D items. For instance the inside roofs of my rail cars are quite lumpy compared to the outside. A rail car printed whole would have a very unsatisfactory bottom in comparison to the top.

 

[Snowman]

I had a thought--no...really, I did--are you, were you perhaps printing said cubes as solid, and therefore heavy--too heavy?--3D models? Or 3D prints?

I'll assume your roofs are hollow. Well, they would have to be, wouldn't they? But also rough inside.

I'll assume further that your interiors, such as the seats AND the iron cast double circle ends on the benches (I whiffed on those I think, as I thought they were (this would have be done in real life back in the day) etched designs on the window panes themselves) are also cast with the rough bottom side, but as you say, who cares?

It's brilliant printing, IMO.

The cubes: Are those, the ones you might have printed anyway, calibration-type dimensioned cubes used to microtune a given printer?

 

[Vince-RA]

Well now I've gone and done it - pre-ordered the m5s before the early bird pricing expired. I'll have to refer to this thread for inspiration as I try to get proficient with 3D modeling in advance of its arrival