N Scale Switching Layout

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


E

ElPresidente

Member
I'm looking to build a N scale switching layout after being out of the hobby for a awhile. (Used to do G scale garden railroading). I have a nice 3' by 1' space to work with, will this be enough for a decent little switching layout? What's a good online and free track design program?

How much will I be looking at spending for 4-5 switches, and a couple feet of track, a power pack, a locomotive, and a couple cars? I'm a big fan of NW2's,RS1's and RS3's, but am also looking for a locomotive to base kitbashes off of. Kitbashing/scratchbuilding was my favorite part of G scale, I just don't have the space anymore for the big stuff.

What are the best railroad club on the northshore of MA, or in Boston?

Sorry for all the questions, I can't wait to get modeling again!
 
In 1x3 feet a nice switching can be built in N scale with plenty of room for buildings and scenery. In HO (about twice the scale of N) a nice one can be built in 1 x 6 feet.
Here is a link to lots of great switching layouts:
http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page105/index.html

You don't need to look at only the N scale ones as you can scale any to N.

As to prices, check some of the many on-line retailers. Also read through the N scale forum for recommendations on brands (I model in HO so don't know all the details about N).

Good luck and have fun
 


ElPresidente said:
I'm looking to build a N scale switching layout after being out of the hobby for a awhile. (Used to do G scale garden railroading). I have a nice 3' by 1' space to work with, will this be enough for a decent little switching layout? What's a good online and free track design program?
Click to expand...

Linn Westcott's classic Switchman's Nightmare track plan would be about 40 inches long in N scale and could be adjusted a bit to fit if you have exactly three feet.

sw_nghtmre.gif


The Carl Arendt site recommended earlier is an excellent resource.

Unless you enjoy studying new computer programs, there's no requirement to learn one to design a layout of this scope, IMHO.

As an alternative, you can make scale (or full-size) templates of the track components you would like to use and move them around until you arrive at the arrangement you like. You can make these by copying or scanning-and-printing turnouts and then cutting out the paper copies.

As far as motive power, KATO has made an NW2 in N scale. RS1s and RS3s are available from Atlas in N scale.

Best of luck with your layout.
 
I think it's hard to get a usable run-around into that short of a space, even in N scale. The turnouts require 5 to 6 inches each and there are two of them so that's a foot. The stub ends need to hold at least the locomotive and one car each which is about 9 inches, which comes to another foot and a half. And the passing tracks between the two turnouts would need to hold at least one car which is another 4 to 5 inches. That's used 35 of the 36 inches. If it's diagonal you get a little more length, but it's already compressed to minimums. Adding in more turnouts starts to get complicated. I fully acknowledge these measurements are a bit long, but padding values early makes it easier to design the further you get into the project, rather than shoe-horning things in right from the get-go.

Cuyama's referenced layout could be about 40" long and looks like quite a bit of railroading to be done, though not a significant amount of scenery ;) But 40" is more than 10% longer than 36". I bet we'd all love to have 10% more layout :D
 
LoudMusic said:
I think it's hard to get a usable run-around into that short of a space, even in N scale.
Click to expand...

If you try it to scale with a diagonal runaround in 1X3 feet with PECO C55 "Small" turnouts and 11" minimum radius, you're right. You'll find the runaround is only a couple of cars long (assuming nothing larger than 40 foot cars). That's sizing for nothing larger than an RS-3 (about 55 scale feet in length). [Note, that's not exactly duplicating the full Switchman's Nightmare, just a diagonal runaround with the tail tracks.]

So yes, it's very tight, and it might be more than a little tedious to switch. But I personally like the challenge and interest of a runaround, so that might be a trade-off I'd be willing to make.

That having been said, an Inglenook-style plan with a switching lead but no runaround would also work fine, as the Inglenooks and "no runaround" plans shown on the late Carl Arendt's site demonstrate.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't know that I'd be satisfied without a run-around. It just seems like a required aspect of entertaining industrial switching.

But that's me. Clearly it works for a lot of modelers.
 
cuyama said:
If you try it to scale with a diagonal runaround in 1X3 feet with PECO C55 "Small" turnouts and 11" minimum radius, you're right. You'll find the runaround is only a couple of cars long (assuming nothing larger than 40 foot cars). That's sizing for nothing larger than an RS-3 (about 55 scale feet in length). [Note, that's not exactly duplicating the full Switchman's Nightmare, just a diagonal runaround with the tail tracks.]

So yes, it's very tight, and it might be more than a little tedious to switch. But I personally like the challenge and interest of a runaround, so that might be a trade-off I'd be willing to make.

That having been said, an Inglenook-style plan with a switching lead but no runaround would also work fine, as the Inglenooks and "no runaround" plans shown on the late Carl Arendt's site demonstrate.
Click to expand...
I'm glad to know you better now...and have since become aware of your experience and expertise in the hobby...and for you apparently your livelihood too. Have been looking at, and saving the pages in your links on yard design, etc.. These will be great to study before starting to lay switches.

Thanks to you and others here for all the info on switching!

Mike
 


railfan said:
It does kind of give me a headache just looking at the diagram....but in a good way. :D

I'll lay it out with my switches and see how it works.
Click to expand...

It's easy to lay the switches/turnouts and track. This plan is fun to learn and operate switching techniques. Moving cars from one to another in the fewest moves is always fun to try and master.
 
Sorry for the late response, thank you guys for all of your ideas and replies. I like those trackplans, but am going to try and work out a better space than 1x3, so that I can have a loop along with switching opprotunities. Is kato uni-track worth the expense, or is laying flex track easy? (I have 0 experience laying indoor track, but am willing to learn if it means I will save money)

I'm thinking about purchasing this loco if I cannot find something better on here or at my local hobby shop, is there anything I should know beforehand? (Like, is it going to be a complete piece of garbage) http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?ID=200450639

Another question (sorry if I'm asking too many), what is the best online wholesaler for N gauge? I've always used wholesaletrains for G, but was curious if there was a better site out there.

Thanks again for all the help, hopefully I'll be picking up some track and getting it laid this weekend!
 
Before purchasing any N-scale locomotive, I usually check Spookshow's N-Scale Locomotive Encyclopedia. I've found it to be a pretty good guide.

Click here for the entry for the Life-Like 0-6-0 you are considering.

Regarding flex track versus Unitrack, you will get a wide range of opinions. If ease of setup is a primary consideration, then Unitrack gets high marks. If realism important to you, then flex track is probably the way to go.

On the other hand, there are some superb N-scale layouts that use Unitrack, such as this one:
http://www.picturetrail.com/powersteamguy1790

It all depends on how much you are willing to learn and how much time you wish to devote to your model railroad.

- Jeff
 
I think I've asked before but how good is the experience of switching with n scale in comparison to switching in ho? It just seems to me the cars would be so light that nothing would move as expected.
 
ElPresidente said:
Sorry for the late response, thank you guys for all of your ideas and replies. I like those trackplans, but am going to try and work out a better space than 1x3, so that I can have a loop along with switching opprotunities. Is kato uni-track worth the expense, or is laying flex track easy? (I have 0 experience laying indoor track, but am willing to learn if it means I will save money)

I'm thinking about purchasing this loco if I cannot find something better on here or at my local hobby shop, is there anything I should know beforehand? (Like, is it going to be a complete piece of garbage) http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?ID=200450639

Another question (sorry if I'm asking too many), what is the best online wholesaler for N gauge? I've always used wholesaletrains for G, but was curious if there was a better site out there.

Thanks again for all the help, hopefully I'll be picking up some track and getting it laid this weekend!
Click to expand...
The RAPIDO couplers on that locomotive are the really old kind. They are bulky, and not at all realistic looking. If magnetic assisted uncoupling is important to you on your switching layout.....you may want to ask someone which couplers are best for that and see if you can get your loco with those.

EDIT: unless you already have rolling stock with rapido's.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have a 2ftx 12 ft switching layout I go to Chillewack BC each year for the show and I'm amazed how long people will stand there and what me move really slowyyyyyyyyy back and forth !! Right now I'm wondering if I should add it to my home layout or toss it,I had fun with it and all but I need more room .
L
 
LoudMusic said:
I think I've asked before but how good is the experience of switching with n scale in comparison to switching in ho? It just seems to me the cars would be so light that nothing would move as expected.
Click to expand...

You might be surprised. Works fine.

It's interesting that years ago O scalers said the same things about that new "itty-bitty" HO scale. :^)
 
jdetray said:
Before purchasing any N-scale locomotive, I usually check Spookshow's N-Scale Locomotive Encyclopedia. I've found it to be a pretty good guide.

Click here for the entry for the Life-Like 0-6-0 you are considering.

Regarding flex track versus Unitrack, you will get a wide range of opinions. If ease of setup is a primary consideration, then Unitrack gets high marks. If realism important to you, then flex track is probably the way to go.

On the other hand, there are some superb N-scale layouts that use Unitrack, such as this one:
http://www.picturetrail.com/powersteamguy1790

It all depends on how much you are willing to learn and how much time you wish to devote to your model railroad.

- Jeff
Click to expand...

Thank you for the link, I've decided to stay away from steamers, and focus on 50's-70's era diesels running on Kato Uni-Track. I'm drawing up trackplans now for a 2x5 board, but I may alter that if I need more space.

What materials are the best for bases?
 
Two ways to go

1.If your going have it set up all the time and space is no problem I would go with sound board,1x2's for bracing and 1x4x8 pine this is light wieght and is easy to get at any big box store.

2. while your at a big box store see if that have any mark down doors size would be great 36x96 all you would need to do is add bracing for legs sound board and best thing is you can add on as you get more doors!

L

P.S. WHen I was building layouts and selling them I used both methods above
 


nmaniac said:
Two ways to go

1.If your going have it set up all the time and space is no problem I would go with sound board,1x2's for bracing and 1x4x8 pine this is light wieght and is easy to get at any big box store.

2. while your at a big box store see if that have any mark down doors size would be great 36x96 all you would need to do is add bracing for legs sound board and best thing is you can add on as you get more doors!

L

P.S. WHen I was building layouts and selling them I used both methods above
Click to expand...

I'm considering making a semi-portable layout, the base will just have track on it, and would be stored in a closet when not in use. When operating I will place it onto a table, and then put any buildings in place, power it up, and start running trains. If this isn't a good idea then I'm not sure how I can make this work, I'm still a big fan of model railroading, but my friends and parents aren't the biggest supporters and I'd like to keep my hobby as private as possible. Something like a door would be too big, what about a plain old piece of plywood?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top