N Scale questions for you experts!!!


J

jaltbaum

New Member
I have searched the forums and found some basic information but I figured I would ask again. I have found this forum exceptional when I researched some of my questions and frankly the hobby shops in my area say they know everything about N scale, but when I go to the stores, they have a section of N scale stuff about the size of a large Igloo cooler and no one to explain stuff to me!

So, here goes. I am planning a layout that is medium size in N scale. Basically it will be an L shape of 16' in length, 32" wide, and jutting out 6' at the "bottom of the L" and again 32" wide. Can you visualize? This plan seems to work best for my garage, but I am open to changes. Anyways, I posted before about helix's and I have come to the conclusion that I want there to be a couple of levels to my layout but only about 4"-6" above normal grade for a mountain pass. In doing so, I need to get my trains up there and I just don't know what the radius should be for my N scale locos for the helix and other normal turns on the layout.

Just from research, I am guessing around a 15" radius (so that the full turn of 30" would fit on my 32" wide layout) but I am really unsure. I almost purchased some items yesterday to see if I could figure it all out on my own, but decided I might be wasting precious cash.

Also, I have a bunch of nice Atlas and Kato engines that are standard DC and none that are DCC. I wonder if upgrading these is possible or if I should just sell them and buy DCC installed locos? I talked to one of the hobby shop guys here locally and he said "ah, just start over, its not worth the effort to upgrade the older trains." I saw dollar signs in his eyes.

Lastly, I also have lots of rolling stock with the older knuckle type couplers (not the micro-train magnetic ones) and he also said that upgrading those to better couplers "would be a waste of time." AHHHHHH!!!!!

Confused and needing help!
 
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Not a n scaler but heres what I got. Are any of the atlas or kato engines dcc ready? Any engine can have a decoder installed it just requires major skill, time, and often money. THere are someplaces that do decoder instalation. Cant remember weebsite but it was like 35 bucks an hour plus decoder and shipping. (They say it ussually took 2.5 hours.)So unless it is ur favorite engine I would sell and buy new.I never buy my engines dcc equipped. I buy them dcc ready. Ussullay dcc equiped is like 100 bucks more and I just pop in a 22 dollar digitrax decoder. Hope this kinda helps.
 
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The locos I have are certainly not DCC ready, they are about 8-10 years old, but most have never been used and are still in the box. I love my locos! However, I think selling and buying new DCC ready ones may be where I have to go... not sure yet though...
 
I'am in "N" scale,not DCC right now but having fun in DC! On your curves,what is the largest engine you run?I have three 2-6-6-2's and have no problems with 15 degree curves,any thing smaller could be a problem!
If you don't want to mess with an HELLX Walthers makes an grade kit made of striaform that goes from O to 4" or higher,I'am useing an 0 to 2" set right now,and works good for me. Take look at E-BAY for DCC for "N" scale locomotives that are DCC equipd,I got an 4-6-2 mintrex with DCC and it works fine on my DCC test track! By the way leave about 3"on the back of your layout ,I did'nt and I'am stell trying to figure out my scenery there LOL!
Don't go overboard on your track and not have room for scenery.A must is an coupler hight gage and try convert every thing to M/T couplers they work great!!
I hope I have helped you a little here?
JIM
 
Howdy, J, and welcome aboard. I'm in HO scale but the basic concepts aren't much different in N scale. some older N scale engines can be converted to DCC reasonably easily and other just aren't worth the time and effort. I'd give the guys at Tony's Train Exchange (www.tonystrainexchange.com) and ask them about each of your engines. They are real experts and don't try to sell you decoders for things they know are going to be a real pain.

We have a member her named SpaceMouse (Chip) that has written a really good 5 minute beginner's guide. You can find it at http://www.chipengelmann.com/trains/Beginner/BeginnersGuide01.html. It's well worth reading.

I think I can visualize your layout space. That's actually a pretty good size for an N scale layout. You have enough run that you could probably get up to a second level on a 2.5% grade with no helix although a loop on the lower section would ease the grade. I'd urge you to plan for this but build a single level layout first. Once you've got that under your belt, you can use your grade to build a second level. A two level layout looks good on paper but it greatly complicates the the track laying and scenery components of both levels.

I don't know what kind of rolling stock you have. Some of the early N scale rolling stock had grossly over sized details and just didn't look very good. They also have wheels with really deep flanges, which can foul finer scale track work and also don't look very good. If the car looks good to you, it can be changed out to Micro Train couplers and closer to scale wheel sets for about $10-$12, depending on what kind of deals you can get on couplers and wheels. Changing couplers and wheels is really not that difficult. If the freight cars just don't look very good, it's probably not worth the money or effort. Sell those off and use the money to buy better quality rolling stock.

The most important thing is to first get a good plan down on paper...or computer, as is normally done now. XtrkCAD is a really good free layout planning program available at http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=151737&package_id=167813. It will take a couple of hours to go through the tutorial but it's well worth the effort. You can then start laying out what you want to see on on your railroad and upload track plans here for suggestions. The worst thing, and the most tempting thing, is to start cutting lumber and get to work. I'd wager than about 99% of us did that for our first layout and it that's why most of us built a second...and third layout. :) Learn from our mistakes and make your first layout one you want to stay with. It will save you a lot of time, money, and frustration.
 
Working backwards thru your questions, evaluate your cars...there are a lot of older cars that just aren't available any more....if that's the case, then I'd spend the money to upgrade. For easily replaced cars, you might be further ahead to go the replacement route, since newer models tend to have better detailing.
As far as engines go.....a lot of the DCC systems will allow you to run one DC train (even multiple engines) along with the DCC engines, so you could definitely keep a few of your favorite DC engines around. Check which of your models have decoders available. If the engines are newer, have flywheels, wheel flanges for code 55 rail, ect. then they're worth upgrading. If they're stuff you have left over from 20+ years ago, then dump them. I agree with Jim that you have enough room to get up to a second level without a Helix. You haven't mentioned what you want to do on the second level, but you could easily run a ramp up one edge of your 16 foot side, make a loop and return down the same ramp, either by making a reversing loop out of your upper level, or by making the ramp a little wider and making the ramp a double track line, with one side going up and the other coming down.
 
Excellent responses. This is why I really enjoy this forum. My goal for my layout is to allow two completely separate trains to run without the chance of them interrupting each other, unless of course I switch them to the same track. My dream would be to have three going at the same time, but I think that may be pushing it for my size layout. In addition, I want to be able to run a third train for switching and stuff that will not affect the main line(s). I have made a few layouts years ago and frankly got bored since I could only run one train at a time as two would always collide somewhere. So, to answer your question about the upper level, I would like to have both trains be able to go up to the higher level, as if appearing out a small mountain, go to the end of the layout and go back down another ramp. I probably will not have them reverse onto themselves up there, but I am still in the planning stages and that could very well change. Staying away from a helix is definitely a goal, even though I am pretty handy with construction projects.

I have all my trains in a storage box, but because of your responses I am going to break them all out and start cataloguing what I have. Is there any advantage to posting what I have here or is that just too much needless information for the forum?

I have been playing around with Xtrxcad but I am awful at it. I have reviewed the demos and whatnot but I am having a pretty tough time... I probably need to slow down a bit and try again.
 
I noticed you said you have some katos. I prefer katos myself since they're such high quality, plus the current models have drop-circuit boards that can be swapped out for decoder boards. You may want to take yours in to the nearest dealer to check and see if they have that option. If not, it's still easy to put decoders in them.
 
Jaltbaum: I believe I understand your layout configuration. That size in N scale can easily handle three trains. If your present budget is a concern a "cab control" type operation for three (or more) can be built easily with no modification to your engines. I no longer have it on my favorites list but there is an internet site that will help you compute grades and lift on helixes - just type in your variables and hit enter! The other respndees to your post have given you wonderful advice. Good luck.
 
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