My latest grabs

[Superlifted06FX4]

I'm trying to figure out what era this RPO is from. I bought it awhile ago just because, lol. It's UP RPO/baggage # 2268:

Next is Athearn UP #1468A and B, picked it up at the flee market dirt cheap, new in box, $25. I just wish I could get them closer together...:

And the autoracks I picked up new from the hobby shop, $35 for the pair:

 

[North Coast Railroad]

Nice...why are the two units so far apart?

 

[psychobeagle12]

If those athearn units have the original coupler box and those are kadees here is what I did to make the distance smaller. I bought the kadee short shank whisker couplers, took one of those coupler clips and cut the sides down a little, then drilled a hole farther back in the frame so that the coupler will sit further back in. Worked fine for me. If you want a pic I will send you a pic of exactly what I did.

 

[Superlifted06FX4]

If those athearn units have the original coupler box and those are kadees here is what I did to make the distance smaller. I bought the kadee short shank whisker couplers, took one of those coupler clips and cut the sides down a little, then drilled a hole farther back in the frame so that the coupler will sit further back in. Worked fine for me. If you want a pic I will send you a pic of exactly what I did.

If you could please, that would be great.

 

[Ronzzr11]

I made up a drawbar for my A and B set,to get them closer together. I made it from a small piece of plastic,and drilled a hole in each end for the coupler screws to fit through.It means the two units are permanently coupled together, but they do look much better.

Ron

 

[Superlifted06FX4]

Thanks, any ideas on the RPO?

 

[QRR Fan]

I made up a drawbar for my A and B set,to get them closer together. I made it from a small piece of plastic,and drilled a hole in each end for the coupler screws to fit through.It means the two units are permanently coupled together, but they do look much better.

Ron

Do you have any pictures of that? I've been thinking about doing the same to an A-B set of mine.

 

[Littlefoot14]

The RPO is from the 40s-50s. At least thats when the locomotives that hauled them were painted into that scheme to match them. The steam locomotives were painted to match in the 40s and were repainted back to the original UP steam scheme in 1952. The cars soon followed, being repainted into Aurmor Yellow and Harbor Mist Grey.

 

[psychobeagle12]

I'll get the pics of what I did and how the locomotive sits now and post them tomorrow. Sorry I'm a little tired or I would do it now

 

[Superlifted06FX4]

The RPO is from the 40s-50s. At least thats when the locomotives that hauled them were painted into that scheme to match them. The steam locomotives were painted to match in the 40s and were repainted back to the original UP steam scheme in 1952. The cars soon followed, being repainted into Aurmor Yellow and Harbor Mist Grey.

Thanks, I'll probably use it in a museum setting.

I'll get the pics of what I did and how the locomotive sits now and post them tomorrow. Sorry I'm a little tired or I would do it now

Thanks, I'm gunna crash soon, lol.

 

[sd50f]

I believe Kadee has a kit that will allow you to couple those two locomotives a little closer than they are now...

Timothy Dineen

 

[Ronzzr11]

Do you have any pictures of that? I've been thinking about doing the same to an A-B set of mine.

I have a set of Genesis A and B units, which I measured to get the right coupler spacing. The other set of A and B units are R-T-R,in the second photo, you can see how much further out the R-R-T-R coupler sits, than the Genesis one.In the third photo, are the A and B set with the drawbar fitted. The spacing is the same as the Genesis pairing. The fourth photo shows the underside,with the drawbar in place. Its 10 mm centre to centre hole spacing.
Ron

 

[Superlifted06FX4]

Interesting...

 

[Espeefan]

I have a set of Genesis A and B units, which I measured to get the right coupler spacing. The other set of A and B units are R-T-R,in the second photo, you can see how much further out the R-R-T-R coupler sits, than the Genesis one.In the third photo, are the A and B set with the drawbar fitted. The spacing is the same as the Genesis pairing. The fourth photo shows the underside,with the drawbar in place. Its 10 mm centre to centre hole spacing.
Ron

Now all you need are a set of diaphragms. The close couple looks good, but that empty space needs closed!

 

[Espeefan]

I believe Kadee has a kit that will allow you to couple those two locomotives a little closer than they are now...

Timothy Dineen

I don't recall seeing an Athearn close couple kit (doesn't mean there isn't one ), but they do have one for Stewart F's. I think that may be the one you are thinking about. I used Kade short shanks and drilled and tapped new holes on the coupler pad. I then screwed the kadee short shanks and their draft gear boxes directly to the frame. The drawbar method is easier, but I wanted to be able to separate the units.

 

[Superlifted06FX4]

I found my super switcher #102 finally. I need to find a replacement truck fot the tender though, as you can see....

Based off of this:

0-8-0 100 was one of the Harbor's super switchers. Only three were built, all for the Harbor, and were the most powerful
0-8-0s ever constructed. They had three cylinders and a booster engine in the tender (note the forward tender truck).
If you look closely, you can see the cylinder head of the third cylinder underneath the smoke box.

 

[CNR Glen]

#15 Today, 09:48 AM
Espeefan
Engineer Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 1,189



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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd50f
I believe Kadee has a kit that will allow you to couple those two locomotives a little closer than they are now...

Timothy Dineen

I don't recall seeing an Athearn close couple kit (doesn't mean there isn't one ), but they do have one for Stewart F's. I think that may be the one you are thinking about. I used Kade short shanks and drilled and tapped new holes on the coupler pad. I then screwed the kadee short shanks and their draft gear boxes directly to the frame. The drawbar method is easier, but I wanted to be able to separate the units.

I haven't seen a stewart chassis but it's not based on an athearn is it? If so then the Stewart kit will work. If you want complicated just try to use the Kadee kit for the Bachmann Plus F-unit. It requires you to either shave the front and rear trucks for the 5 foot spacing or cut the front of the truck gearbox off for the 3 foot spacing.

That 0-8-0 is a real brute of an engine, could use a bit of a dusting I see!