My first attempt at water.....


C

chimmike

UP and BNSF freelancer
Well, this is my first attempt at water. I think it came out pretty well. Stuff is called "super glaze" or something along those lines, got it from a local big box home improvement job for about $20. Fairly easy to use....gets a lot of bubbles and after a bunch of testing, that seems to be something out of my control, but most of them (95% of them) disappear before it's cured. The few left don't look bad, IMO.

I know the painting could have been better. I'm not a painter. Shoot me. :D

before 'water' :
http://4by4runner.com/images/water 006.jpg

after:
http://4by4runner.com/images/water 008.jpg

http://4by4runner.com/images/water 009.jpg
 
Wow, that's really good. I don't see any bubbles at all. It really as if the water is almost too clear - I can hardly tell except by the shoreline and the bridge reflection that there's water in there. It would have helped if you had used more black towards the middle to simulate depth. Actually, that may be the issue. Since you painted bottom such a bright blue, it may be that the camera, at least, is looking right past the water to the bright bottom. Nevertheless, that's the clearest model water I've ever seen, especially when it's that thick. What is the exact name of that stuff?
 
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Not bad, however, the blue bottom with scattered rocks makes it look like the rocks are floating...
 
The 'water' layer itself looks good. Nice work.
I'm no master of water ( at least I don't think so), but I would've went with a darker, more earth toned shade for the river bottom. From this point now, what you can do is lay a very thin layer of 'earthier' tone paint on top to give it more realism & depth. Make sure thats glossed over though.
 
jbaakko said:
Not bad, however, the blue bottom with scattered rocks makes it look like the rocks are floating...
Click to expand...


hah, that was my initial problem, actually, I put an initial layer that was too thick, and didn't let it cure, so some rocks actually floated up. I had to poke 'em back down continuously for a while until it started curing more.

the stuff is called Parks Super Glaze, made by Zinnser. If should be along the stains and varnishes at your local big box. It'll be in a small box, and has two bottles in it. A resin and an activator. Pretty darn easy to use, and no noxious fumes that I could tell.

Next water I do I'll simulate the depth better
 
Yes it looks pretty good. Just wondering why we can't add seaweed or fish to ponds and streams ?
 
Here I am, old, retired and still playing in the water :eek:)
Lookin' good, Chimmike.
I've just started using Magic Water and mixing color in with it when I pour. Finally found a way to prevent wicking - very tedious but it works.
Paul - "why we can't add seaweed or fish to ponds and streams ?" Have you found a source for fish? I played with some aluminum filings but couldn't get the shape/size I wanted for a bunch of schooling minnows. I've used microfiber for stringy algea that seems to work pretty well. Also used powered green tempera paint for algae - both on the surface and submerged. Also powered foam works well for pond scum. A little goes a long way.

What is the best way to get breeze ripples on the surface? Any one have success?
 
Try some Modge Podge gloss matte medium for the ripples. You can apply it just before any other material is completely dry and use a find brush to control the size of the ripples. I've had good luck with small wind ripples using a hair dryer on Envirotex also. You've just got to keep an eye on it and stop before your ripples get to look like potholes. :)
 
The water looks pretty good. Good to see what others have used for supplies and techniques since a a stream or river is one of those items that I would like to include in my own layout. :)
 
Water in a Can

For all of you trying to create a better water effect try this. I ran across the technique by accident when pouring "Minwax" brand polycrylic sealer on the kitchen counter top to seal the thing.

It goes on in coats about a 1/4 inch each and during the process you can fill in each additional coat about 20 minutes apart. Although milky out of the can, it dries clear and can be mixed with any other acrylic based product such as craft paint from WalMart.

I used it to coat an ocean/beach landing scene for my 1/35 scale military dioramas which I have as well as my HO rr layout.

It is easily cleaned up with water and as opposed to the fancy stuff for water from other manufacturers it is realtively inexpensive, also it does not stink, takes only one step to pour, and no mixing with a second part. I would recommend that you try it in small areas and go from there.

Too many possibilities to explore with just the ideas for you here.johncpo,
 
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