MTH HO Mikado 2-8-2 and the Front drivers climb the rails / derail

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crosstracktrains

New Member
I have a MTH HO Mikado 2-8-2 and the Front drivers climb the rails on 18" R curves. I read on a youtube video that if the front drivers derail, add a washer to the rear truck's spring.

My questions are:
1. What is the rear truck spring? (Is it the Trailing Truck w/ the 2 wheels, right behind the 8 driver wheels underneath the cab?)
2. What size washers and where to install them?
3. Does anyone have any pictures of what to do here?
4. should I just remove the traction tire driver and put in the normal non-traction replacement driver that came with it?
5. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? :)
 
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I have a MTH HO Mikado 2-8-2 and the Front drivers climb the rails on 18" R curves. I read on a youtube video that if the front drivers derail, add a washer to the rear truck's spring.

My questions are:
1. What is the rear truck spring? (Is it the Trailing Truck w/ the 2 wheels, right behind the 8 driver wheels underneath the cab?)
2. What size washers and where to install them?
3. Does anyone have any pictures of what to do here?
4. should I just remove the traction tire driver and put in the normal non-traction replacement driver that came with it?
5. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? :)

Adding a very thin washer will help on the trailing truck. That truck should move freely and have some give up and down.
I put my washer against/flush with the screw head. Experiment with different washers. I used Kadee washers.
I know from experience on my brass 2-8-2 that if it the truck is too stiff it will cause it to jerk through a curved turnout. General speaking, 2-8-2s do not like tight curves. They work best on minimum 34" radiuses and up.
Sorry I can't help you with number 4. I'm not familiar with what a traction tire is.
 
Yes, the trailing truck is the yoke frame and axle under the cab. If you unscrew it and invert it, there should be an obvious tension device, either a blade spring or a small coil spring. I don't know the engine, so take your pick.

If the spring is of the coil type, often you can achieve the increased tension a washer is meant to offer by simply stretching the spring outward. This is easily done, and easily overdone. If you are not confident and dextrous, you may want to just use a thin steel quality washer.

Similarly, the blade can be made to want to sit more widely at an angle so that it is stronger when the truck is in position. Again, ya gotta know what you are doing.

Finally, the very tight curves, or how level the rails are across them, could also be a factor here.
 


thanks, added the washer and it helped.

I also got replaced the traction tire driver with the non-traction tire driver and that made a big difference.
 
Sorry I can't help you with number 4. I'm not familiar with what a traction tire is.
A traction tire is a wheel that has a groove cut into it all the way around the wheel. A piece of rubber, much like a rubber band, is fitted into the groove. This is supposed to provide a bit more 'bite' for that wheel along the top of the railhead. Most people don't like them very much, though, and replace them with a standard wheel when possible.
 




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