MTH 2-8-0 Won't Run At Home (Sounds and Steam Working)


mydartswinger

mydartswinger

Member
I picked up a MTH Rail King Rugged Rails Series Great Northern 2-8-0 from the LHS this afternoon. Along with it, I picked up an MTH Z-750 controller, some track, and a K-Line Universal Lockon. The track is a bit old and needs a good cleaning, but hey, it was thrown in with the deal.

The shop owner put it on his setup rig using a Z-750 for power, and it ran great. However, after getting it home and putting it on the track, all I can get it to do is blow steam, blow the whistle, and go through the "startup" sounds.

After figuring out how to put the Lockon in place (there were no instructions included, and I've never used O gauge before), I've got the 2 clips (positive lead connected to this one) on the center rail and the single clip (negative lead connected to this one) touching the inside rail.

Could my problem be the track? I picked up a track cleaning eraser to clean it up a bit, but haven't gotten much time since to go through the track to clean it up. Or is my problem elsewhere?

Thanks in advance,
Shannon
 
Not being a O gauger may i ask is there a set of power cables between the engine and tender? We've found on h.o sound equipted models that many times if we do not make sure the plug/plugs are fully seated,sound will come on but there's not movement.
 
It is plugged in all the way, and in the correct orientation. There's also only one way that it can be plugged in. That was one of the first things I checked.

I did manage to get it to run briefly by using the lockon to add power to the outside rail and ground to the center, then ran a separate wire from the positive terminal on the controller to the inside rail on the track. While running during that brief period, to change speed, I had to rotate the throttle and touch the direction button several times. I have managed to get it running briefly by touching the wires to the rails by hand (the wires have banana plugs on them) in much the same configuration as described above, except for 1 positive rail at a time, then alternating rails to get it to move.

Also, I could not get the bell or whistle to chime while the loco was running. After a lap or so around the track, the sound would quit. It took pressing the direction button a couple of times to get the sound to come back on.

My apologies if the question is noobish. This is my first O gauge, my first 3 railer, my first loco with live steam, and my first loco with sound. I do run HO, but I've only run locos without sound or anything of the like, just straight turn the knob and go with maybe a light or two that comes on with track power (though I am working up to nicer stuff as I build my HO layout).

At this point, I'm suspecting a faulty controller unit.

Thanks again,
Shannon
 
This sounds like a Battery problem. Did the guy you get it from have it on before you showed up? or did he start it from fresh for you? Or the sound board,may be starting to show its age.

But let me ask you this, The area you have your track on, Is it flush? What i mean No carpet or uneven surface? If its not even it will drop off. Also remember your going from DC to AC on 3 rail.
 
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He had it sitting in a display case and pulled it out to set it on his locomotive test stand to run it for me.

It's currently sitting on a 4x8 table built up with 6 sheets 3/4" thick foam that I'm working towards turning into the groundwork for my HO layout (I haven't cut or shaped it yet, so it's still flat).

Thankfully, though, I found the problem. After going back to the hobby shop, the owner let me take the controller he used to show me the train on with me along with the one that I purchased. I plugged in the shop's controller and it worked for about 5 minutes before it wouldn't run again. Baffled, I switched it back to the controller I purchased, and it still wouldn't run. I got back online and found a thread on another forum from about 2 years ago where someone was having a problem with his locomotive's steam. The answer turned out to be a factory reset using button combinations on the controller. I did that on the shop's controller, and the train started running again. I then put my controller back on, and it worked as well. Come to find out, somehow the locomotive was put into "neutral lock". I didn't even know that was possible since my locomotive didn't come with a manual, I couldn't find one online, and the controller's manual didn't mention any button combos or any detailed functions of it.

This leads me to where I stand at the moment. With my controller (MTH Z750), the train moves reliably, but at less than half speed at full throttle. During the few times I was able to run the train yesterday, the locomotive was able to achieve full speed using the Z750 controller. On the shop's controller (MTH ZController), the train has the ability to exceed the limit of my track (I'm now using MTH RealTrax) with it's O-31 curves (seem to be a bit short radius for a 2-8-0, but still can be functional when speed is kept under control). Since the track change, I went with an MTH lighted lockon, and added a Lionel lighted control tower. Neither light seems to affect either controller.

This leads me to a few more questions. First, what's the difference between the Z750 and the ZController? Secondly, is the slower speed possibly due to a partially faulty controller, is the difference in controllers enough to show a very large speed gap between the 2, or are the lights causing a low current on the Z750? Lastly, is there a resource for a complete list of the button combinations used in the MTH Protosound 2.0 system?

Thanks again,
Shannon
 
Sorry, i cant really help you. I only have a Z4000. As far as the Nutul, The only one i know of Just disables the sound,but its all the time,Doesnt reset everytime you swap controllers Its like 3 bells,and 4 horns Really quick, dont try it though. I still think it may be the soundboard, especially if its been sitting for a while,and was not charged the right way.
 
Problem solved.

One of the power supplies was a lower power, though both were for Z750 controllers. I also found that the speed control function somehow allowed the train to go a bit faster.

Once I found a sheet that had all (or most) of the button combinations and an explanation of each, it was fairly simple to get it going right. That also pointed me to how to get the "Cab Chatter" function working and the remote coupler fire feature.

Thanks again for all the advice,
Shannon
 
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