MRC AD310 Decoder @ Proto 2000 GP18

[BNTorsney]

I am having trouble wiring the last of my 6 good engines to the DCC decoder.
If you look at the attached photo of their instructions, they list wire colors to all connections EXCEPT one. One side of the motor connect to the decoder orange wire, the other engine connection is the MYSTERY?

 

[kjd]

The colors for pickups, motor, front and rear lights are standard so wires to the motor should be the same as all other decoders, gray for neg, orange for + (less saturated colors of the + and - from the rail pickups).
It is the little details like this that I steer far away from MRC decoders. Maybe looks shouldn't matter but it says something to me if a manufacturer can't even get the components on the board straight. That and even after two trips back to MRC it still didn't work. Their analog power packs on the other hand are second to none. If they could get the motor control from one of their power packs into a decoder they would have something.

 

[BNTorsney]

Mrc

I am beginning to see your point about this company, the instructions for their Command 2000 DCC controller are poorly written also.
This is the last of 6 decoders made by them that I purchased 8 years ago. When I get this last one figured out, what brand would you recommend for any future engine purchases?
You have talent, the model of that airplane body on the flatcar, is well done.
I am also looking for some recommendations for "working" buildings for my layout; scenes that interact with the train and don't just sit there.

 

[BNTorsney]

Proto 2000 G18

According to the instructions, there are 6 screws securing the weight and engine to the chassis.
In the photo, I was able to get two brass screws out. The other four holes look like the have rubber plugs. I tried pulling one out, hoping to reveal a screw, but was unsuccessful. If anyone knows how to get the weight out, I would appreciate a reply.
Thank you.

 

[MLW]

Hi

Your decoder have been discontinued a while back.

#1. Wiring decoders, irrespective of the brand it is pretty much standard.
One lead (right side pick-up) hooks up on the right side of the motor.
The other lead (left side pick-up) hooks up on the left side.
Your instruction is not very clear but sometimes
you have to apply common sense. There's no way in the world
the same lead can connect both the + and - of the electric motor.
So in your case the left side would be the BLACK wire and the right side is the RED wire.

#2 . Contact MRC for help with their decoders or instruction. They have been
really good at responding by email. I know the tendency is to
go to a public forum like this, and that is fine if you get the
corrcet answer quickly, but the manufacturer knows best.
I know I get irritated when a manufacturer does not respond quickly enough
to my questions.

#3. Your proto loco: If I understand you right you wish to remove the
electric motor. Right? Pull the motor straight up. The rubber thingy are what is holding
the motor to the frame. Make sure you disconnect and remove the 'drive shaft" .
You want to remove the motor to isolate it right?
A piece of electric tape will do just fine.

#4. Contact Proto for more info about your loco.
They are also very good at replying to emails.


Note:


Here's a link (PDF) to MRC Discontinued Manual for Decoders (Generic) but it gives you a good idea
about how to wire a decoder. Its pretty much all the same unless
otherwised noted by the manufacturer, which in your case does not apply.
http://www.modelrec.com/resources/trainSound/AD370.pdf

Don't be too quick to condemn the manufacturer of your decoders or loco or anything else for that matter.
Talk to them to see what they can do for you first. You may not be happy with the quality or performance
of a product, any product, and as a consumer that is fine. You "vote" with your wallet and they know that.

My personal preference is NCE decoders. Why? Because I tried one 3 years ago and
never ever had a problem with it. That's what I use.
Very quiet decoders (silent running type), never lost an adress or became a "run-away".
BAsed on my personal experience and the fact I am satisfy with this particualr brand that is what I am using.
For sound my loco are equipped with QSI. I may try the Tsunami or Loksound for my next project just to see (or hear),
but QSI sound just fine to me.

My Rapidotrains Turbo train has an MRC decoder with sound and it is first class.
The Sound is exceptional and the decoder performance has been trouble free.

Again these are my personal opinion based on my personal experience.

I wrote this pretty fast and did not do a "spell check" prior to posting it.
Sorry for any mistake that I have made.

 

[MLW]

In the picture (below) is the instruction on how to install
the MRC decoder (taken from the PDF file above).
The picture is ok but the text came out kind
of crappy, so here it is:

INSTALLATION
It is quite a challenge to install a decoder into a locomotive. You should have some
basic electrical knowledge and soldering skills. If you do not have the above
requirements, please ask the dealer for help in installation.

Figure 1 shows the electrical circuit of most standard locomotives. The terminals of
the motor and light(s) are directly connected to the wheel pick-ups. Each type of
loco has its own method of electrical pick-up and distribution. The connection
between the wheels, motor and light(s) could be wires, clips, the body or chassis, a
PC board or any other type of conductor. Figure out your loco’s electrical system
and how to disconnect (isolate) the motor and light(s).

Figure 1. Connection of standard locomotive. Note: The ‘X’ marks indicate
where to disconnect (isolate).

The decoder will be inserted between the wheel pick-ups and the motor. The ‘X’
marks in Figure 1 show you where to disconnect (isolate).

Figure 2 shows you how to wire the decoder. After disconnecting the motor
terminals from pick-ups, connect the red wire to the right side pickup and the black
wire to the left side pick up. Connect the orange wire to the motor terminal that
originally connected to the right pickup. Connect the gray wire to the motor’s other
terminal. Connect the front light to the blue wire and the white wire. Connect the
rear light to the blue wire and the yellow wire.

The blue wire is the common terminal for lights and accessory functions. You may
use the black wire or the red wire to replace the blue wire. This is very useful when
you find that it is hard to isolate one of the light terminals from the pickup. Wiring
the bulb this way will also make the light dimmer. If your loco has only a front light,
you should connect the white and the yellow wires together.

hope this help

 

[kjd]

I am beginning to see your point about this company, the instructions for their Command 2000 DCC controller are poorly written also.
This is the last of 6 decoders made by them that I purchased 8 years ago. When I get this last one figured out, what brand would you recommend for any future engine purchases?
You have talent, the model of that airplane body on the flatcar, is well done.
I am also looking for some recommendations for "working" buildings for my layout; scenes that interact with the train and don't just sit there.

Like I said I can't say enough about MRC analog power packs. They can get an old Athearn switcher to crawl along .8 smph without even cleaning the wheels or track (actual measured speed from yesterday). They have great customer service as well, they wired the lights to my decoder (separte from the loco) for me when I said I couldn't get them to work. Unfortunately, they still didn't work but they tried hard, twice.
For DCC I use a Digitrax system I have had for about 10 years. When I started I used lots of Digitrax decoders and for the most part they worked fine. I moved to Seattle several years later and everyone used NCE and everyone seemed to hate Digitrax. Since there were no Digitrax decoders available I switched to NCE and now prefer them over Digitrax. I used the basic 4 function, wire it yourself decoder that lists for about $20. I like them because they are 4 function (vs Digitrax basic 2 function) and each function can have lighting effects and are mappable. With NCE the lights don't dim as the motor starts drawing current like on nmy Digitrax locos.
A few nights ago, I put an NCE decoder in a HO Kato SD70MAC. Prior to that, even with an MRC power pack, I could not get the SD70MAC to run slow enough to load coal at the loadout. NCE has a couple CVs that let you get it done though. 116 and 117 together will let a loco creep along and now I can get perfect loads every time at about 1.3 smph. I am still trying to get a trio of them to work together.
As far as industries that interact with the train, my current favorite is hauling coal. I hope to have an article published in RMC within the next year about my loadout that actually loads trains. I have a rotary dumper as well as you probably saw from my website. Other things that come to mind are logs and scrap metal but will require handling the cars. Other open cars could also be loaded and unloaded but coal is the easiest to automate.
I don't have a layout yet, just a few freemo modules and some perpetual projects. The rotary dumper, the airplane car and now even BN7023 are projects that have been under construction for several years now. I recently finished BN 4106 and BN 4077, projects I started before my first daughter was born 5.5 years ago.

 

[lmackattack]

I think the gp 18 has 2 screws at the nose and tail to hold the weight to the frame. when instaling the deocder make sure to put a pice of electrical tape under the motor to prevent shorts if the tab come louse. also the lights might have a resitor in line that may need to be removed? I think I installed grain of wheat bulbs an placed tape over them to direct the light to the clear plastic under the shell

Trent

 

[BNTorsney]

Found Proto 2000 GP18 booklets

In the picture (below) is the instruction on how to install
the MRC decoder (taken from the PDF file above).
The picture is ok but the text came out kind
of crappy, so here it is:



hope this help

Thank you, all information is helpful, welcomed and appreciated. The information you posted is for a different decoder, a later model. I finally found my paperwork for the GP18, there are an addition two screws, concealed pretty good, in the back of each engine coupler.
Murphy's Law: NOW being able to get the engine's weight off, I realize the problem with the decoder wiring was my fault. A lot of good this does me now, I have already mailed back the decoder to MRC. The unlabeled wire in the instructions is a ground and should be connected to the decoder's blue wire. I had this part right, but screwed up another connection.
With the decoder on it's way back to MRC and now knowing what has to be done, I rewired the engine electric to make it easier to connect to the decoder.
I purchased my MRC 2000 DCC train control and the six ADC310 decoders in 1998. The other five have been in the engines for close to ten years with no problems. Since I can lay my only problem with these decoders in MY lap, I will give MRC the benefit of the doubt about their printed instructions.
If they should replace my ADC310 with a later model, I pray it is no larger. Like-Like built this unit, before Walthers took them over, and didn't leave much extra room ANYWHERE!

 

[BNTorsney]

I think the gp 18 has 2 screws at the nose and tail to hold the weight to the frame. when instaling the deocder make sure to put a pice of electrical tape under the motor to prevent shorts if the tab come louse. also the lights might have a resitor in line that may need to be removed? I think I installed grain of wheat bulbs an placed tape over them to direct the light to the clear plastic under the shell

Trent

Thank you, I found my paperwork.

 

[BNTorsney]

Decoder Update

................wiring was my fault. A lot of good this does me now, I have already mailed back the decoder to MRC. The unlabeled wire in the instructions is a ground and should be connected to the decoder's blue wire.

Apparently I didn't make the mistake I though I did. On the instruction sheet there was an unidentified wire for the engine ground, or negative side; it should have been labeled "gray." This still wouldn't have done me any good, because MRC didn't include that "gray" wire on this ADC310 decoder!
Live and learn, I'm getting a modern venison of the decoder (ADC370) in return for $10.00. If it has the mysterious gray wire, I will be very happy to have my GP18 back in action!