Meet Murphy, MY new (?) revived FM C-Liner


The ole Atlas 5 axle FM C-liner I picked up is now in service! ...............................It was........ an Atlas-Rivarossi w/ vertical oriented 3 pole motor, 4 wheel drive and 6 wheel pickup. ................. It now sports a 5 pole skewed motor, coil spring drive (to gear box), 10 wheel pickup and 8 wheel drive. .........................................I tried but gave up trying to wrangle a replacement motor in the old chassis. I took an old LifeLike chassis am modified it, easier since it plastic. The front truck is un-changed, but I was able to manage a 3 axel truck (from another chassis) for the rear. Only 4 wheel on the rear truck are geared for drive. I fashioned (or cobbled if you will) my own lead weights. To top it all off, it is DCC with new bright LED headlight (& number boards. Ops almost forgot, I removed the front truck mounted coupler and used the plow (or cow catcher if ya prefer) I glued it to the body shell after cutting it off the original front truck. ...................................................... WHY call it Murphy? simple, I swear if it can go wrong, it did, aka murphy's law. Despite a few problems (I never ever make a mistake, right? ) My FM C-Liner Road #235 is now running full steam ahead. ............................................................................................... I have a trolley with the #35, therefore I programmed it 235, second loco w/35, and the axels are 2 front, 3 rear and a total of 5 axels........ if that makes any sense to anyone.............................................. OK but how does it run? Not too shabby really. It may not be a sophisticated Kato or Atlas drive under the hood but it runs well & more importantly pulls a train fine. For an old mechanism, its simple and fairly quiet. Some of those old Yugo made (MENHO?) mechanisms while simple and cheap often last and perform better than one might expect ............................................My total cost for this project was $1 winning bid, $6 shipping for the loco, Under $1 for the LED, and about $18 for the Digitrax DN136 decoder. So about $26 total plus a lot of TLC, old spare parts and patience to get'er back running in style. ...................................................JD
 
Ok OK OK........... I will see if this works. I did a compressed view of the FM C-liner sitting on a track section and also a shot of the underside (combined). ..................BTW after running it for a couple days now I am even happier with the results.
 

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Yippie! it worked.......... I may paint the truck side-frames a more appropriate silver. Bottom view, I had to shorten the metal weight (w/screw motor mount) for the 3 axle truck clearance.) a little. I still have to put road # on the sides, near the back at the same level as the Santa Fe lettering. I made some setting in the decoder for better speed, ie good slow speed as well as highballing. ....................................... I am very happy how it worked *and I do mean WORK) out. Parts of this loco are from Yugoslavia, Italy & China and yet they all worked together. My biggest fear was the mixed source gearing, but tht turned out to be a non issue.
 
cajon ......... tell Atlas about their non realistic model. I bought the dollar non-running loco. More out of curiosity and it being a lost puppy. Before the diesel wish list thread I never seen or knew anyone even made or had a 5 axel loco, real or model. ................................JD
 
cajon ......... tell Atlas about their non realistic model. I bought the dollar non-running loco. More out of curiosity and it being a lost puppy. Before the diesel wish list thread I never seen or knew anyone even made or had a 5 axel loco, real or model. ................................JD

No sense in asking Atlas that because they already know that by making something that's a "fig newton" of someones imagination it will sell anyway, especially if it's painted Santa Fe! LOL Other RRs had the 5 axle version just not Santa Fe. You should be able to find them thru a Google search. You should be able to find previous discussions on this & other forums. BTW There's a number board on the nose which is where Santa Fe had 90s #. What # did Atlas put on your model?
 
FM C-Liner

I have an Atlas/Rivarossi FM C-Liner. It is in parts at this time but, I have most of what I need. However, I think there is one part that I don't have and I thought I would ask you. There must be a bracket that holds the motor down to the frame. I don't have that bracket. Do you have one that you would sell me. I actually think I have the rest of what i need to get this up and running.

Thanks for you help.

John

The ole Atlas 5 axle FM C-liner I picked up is now in service! ...............................It was........ an Atlas-Rivarossi w/ vertical oriented 3 pole motor, 4 wheel drive and 6 wheel pickup. ................. It now sports a 5 pole skewed motor, coil spring drive (to gear box), 10 wheel pickup and 8 wheel drive. .........................................I tried but gave up trying to wrangle a replacement motor in the old chassis. I took an old LifeLike chassis am modified it, easier since it plastic. The front truck is un-changed, but I was able to manage a 3 axel truck (from another chassis) for the rear. Only 4 wheel on the rear truck are geared for drive. I fashioned (or cobbled if you will) my own lead weights. To top it all off, it is DCC with new bright LED headlight (& number boards. Ops almost forgot, I removed the front truck mounted coupler and used the plow (or cow catcher if ya prefer) I glued it to the body shell after cutting it off the original front truck. ...................................................... WHY call it Murphy? simple, I swear if it can go wrong, it did, aka murphy's law. Despite a few problems (I never ever make a mistake, right? ) My FM C-Liner Road #235 is now running full steam ahead. ............................................................................................... I have a trolley with the #35, therefore I programmed it 235, second loco w/35, and the axels are 2 front, 3 rear and a total of 5 axels........ if that makes any sense to anyone.............................................. OK but how does it run? Not too shabby really. It may not be a sophisticated Kato or Atlas drive under the hood but it runs well & more importantly pulls a train fine. For an old mechanism, its simple and fairly quiet. Some of those old Yugo made (MENHO?) mechanisms while simple and cheap often last and perform better than one might expect ............................................My total cost for this project was $1 winning bid, $6 shipping for the loco, Under $1 for the LED, and about $18 for the Digitrax DN136 decoder. So about $26 total plus a lot of TLC, old spare parts and patience to get'er back running in style. ...................................................JD
 
I don't see any numbers on the nose. I have the clear plastic pieces that snap in. The headlamp lens and number board are on the same piece of plastic.
 
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I am brand new to N Scale. I bought this in a box of junk a few years ago thinking that I might get into N Scale some time later. I owned American Flyer and sold all that stuff and started my first N Scale layout last year. It is slowly coming along. Anyway, I would like to get this thing running if I could.
 
t's been a while since I re-gutted my FM C-liner. The motor was SHOT in more ways than one, I think I tossed it, so I am working via my flakey memory, aka pot-holed gray-stuff.


The motor is a VERTICAL mount. The worm gear has a little grove/track at the bottom end. This grove is critical, it keeps the power truck from falling off and limits motor creeping upwards. There are 4 screw holes, and I THINK (blowing a fuse here) the top/end of the motor itself mounts via some/all the screw holes. It may not be a separate bracket. Like I noted its been a while.

I tried grinding the round motor hole out making 4 corners to hold a Bachmann motor, fitting the original worm gear on it. I BLEW it, because I ground off the grove, not realizing it was needed to hold the truck in place. There is a little brass plate (adjustable) with a slit that engages the worm gear grove.

No great loss for me, I was able to cobble together a Mehano plastic chassis and ended up with IMO an even better running loco. The Bman adaption worked, just the truck would not stay in place when lifting the loco off the track. The RR motor (I thinks its a RR?) is a very OLD design and many have had more than their fair share of track time by now.

BTW... I picked up a FM C-liner shell with NYC lighting stripe livery. So now its a NYC loco.
 
Rivarossi Motor

I don't have to correct motor. So, I need to either retrofit the motor or do the impossible and find an original motor.

I would like to get it back in service, and I think I can. It is more about the challenge of getting it going than anything else.

I found a fellow that sold me both trucks but, I don't think he has the motor. At least, he didn't offer another motor when he found out that I didn't have the correct one.

I am busy doing some other things so, this is something that I give attention to but, it does not have my undivided attention. I am trying my hand at painting some locomotives and a couple of cabooses. I have never painted any cars/locomotives before. So, while it is fun, it is also kind of nerve wrecking.

I have attached three photos.

Just so I understand, you had to mill out the frame to accommodate another motor. That is what I will have to do if I don't find the OEM. I am not in a hurry so, I think it might be out there and if I am patient, I will get it. If not, maybe there is an aftermarket motor that will fit??




t's been a while since I re-gutted my FM C-liner. The motor was SHOT in more ways than one, I think I tossed it, so I am working via my flakey memory, aka pot-holed gray-stuff.


The motor is a VERTICAL mount. The worm gear has a little grove/track at the bottom end. This grove is critical, it keeps the power truck from falling off and limits motor creeping upwards. There are 4 screw holes, and I THINK (blowing a fuse here) the top/end of the motor itself mounts via some/all the screw holes. It may not be a separate bracket. Like I noted its been a while.

I tried grinding the round motor hole out making 4 corners to hold a Bachmann motor, fitting the original worm gear on it. I BLEW it, because I ground off the grove, not realizing it was needed to hold the truck in place. There is a little brass plate (adjustable) with a slit that engages the worm gear grove.

No great loss for me, I was able to cobble together a Mehano plastic chassis and ended up with IMO an even better running loco. The Bman adaption worked, just the truck would not stay in place when lifting the loco off the track. The RR motor (I thinks its a RR?) is a very OLD design and many have had more than their fair share of track time by now.

BTW... I picked up a FM C-liner shell with NYC lighting stripe livery. So now its a NYC loco.
 

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You are correct, I had to grind corners into the round motor cavity, to fit a cheapo Bachmann motor in it. The brass worm gear WITH the grove at the tip to engage the front truck is IMPORTANT. I got the Bmann motor to fit and all, ran OK, but w/o that grove, the truck does not stay on/in-place when you pick it up.

CORRECTION! I just double checked my FN C-liner, I used a Life-Like chassis, NOT a Mehano! Same basic chassis/mechanism. I used a nice 5 pole motor, bigger and more power. I also installed DCC in it using a DN135 or DN136 plug in Digitrax decoder. It also has a nice bright white led for the headlights & number boards.

Finding a GOOD motor for it, will be HARD to find. They one I had was not even close to be worth repairing. It was SHOT, ran to death!

IMO its a worthy project and worth cobbling better guts for it.
 
While looking for something else I cam across several FM C-liners on eBay. Price ranges from $25 to $30 Buy It Now w/shipping. Might be a way to get a proper motor, good shell, spare parts, maybe a reasonable working FM C-Liner. (seller claims they run)

I tried posting a link, would NOT allow, so here is a cut-n paste, the UP one. The listings do NOT note they are C-liners, that part is obvious looking at the distinctive shell in photos

enter; "Atlas Union Pacific Loco N Scale a" in eBay search



 
Majordad, I have two motored 5-axle c-liners left over from doing my NYC and CN paint jobs. One is 100% complete, the other has had the plow and coupler pocket removed from the front truck. Depending on what parts you need, that one may be just as useful as the one with the plow. The complete one I'll sell for $25, shipping included, or the plow-less one for $15, shipping included. PM me if you're interested. They both did run when I received them, but very roughly. Unless you have a way to rehabilitate the motors, they are not good for running by themselves and are more or less parts locos. But then, pretty much every one you'll find for sale only runs poorly because they never did run great when they were new in 1970. They certainly won't run in an acceptable way 46 years later.

I desperately wanted a 5-axle c-liner running down the rails ever since I learned they existed. I went a different route, though. I bought A-A pairs on eBay. Rather than doing a re-motor or re-chassis on the powered units, I decided to repaint the dummies and push them with other, more recent models that the FM's had historically been paired with. Works beautifully and looks great. I admire the ingenuity and clever craftiness of being able to actually get the old chassis running or converting to a different chassis, though. Well done, arealgijoe. Just for giggles, here's the two I did. They make beautiful models with a little work.

C-Liner-09.jpg
C-liner-23-24.jpg
 
MIKE.........
I like the idea of using another loco in a consist with the FM-C-liner. I have one dummy chassis I am thinking of converting to a SOUND LOCO. Lots of ROOM for a sound unit and speaker, then just use another loco to do the hard work pushing. I need to make sure the dummy chassis axels can be converted for electrical pickup. I want a working headlight so I need to electrify it anyway. I am bidding on a pair of as-is FM C liners on fleaBay. Maybe I will have more FM-C parts to play with.
 
The original power pickup on the powered units comes solely from the rear truck, while the powered front truck is electrically dead. Both trucks on the dummy are dead (duh, Mike) but they do have metal wheels with isolated axles. So yeah, if you can figure out some sort of wipers to pick up the power from the wheels it should be do-able. I didn't even try to dive into doing all that and just ran wires from the trailing unit's LED pads for the headlight LED instead. If you run into issues trying to power it directly, you could still do what I did but with power leads rather than light leads. Just run some wires from the power pickup pads on the trailing unit and you'd have that same track power that the trailing unit is picking up split off to also run into the leading dummy and its sound decoder. There wouldn't be any current issues because it's not going through the other decoder, just splitting off from the power pickup itself. That's definitely the easiest way to pick up good, reliable power but it does have the downside of permanently tying that dummy to only being used with that particular trailing unit. With a disconnect plug, though, you could at least still use the trailing unit with others.
 
A disconnect plug sys is one way. I avoid that, don't like doing that, but sometimes ya gotta do whatever.

I spent more time, read stayed up far too late/early, tinkering.

Rivarossi did some WIERD things with their locos. The loco trucks use 1/2 axles, and electrical pickup trucks have tiny SPRINGS on each wheel. My usual method of adding rail power to trucks will NOT work on these. Have fun trying to put one back together and have every thing work as before.

I now have one fully working powered FM C-liner and 2 working dummies. I had a dummy chassis for one and fabricated a dummy chassis for the other, came out very good. I will try and post photos tomorrow.


I am also working on a SOUND chassis, using a discarded original chassis and trucks. At over 51g its too HEAVY (personal opinion) for dragging around the layout, so, I ground it down to about 37g. What I did the first time, using a LL chassis and cobbled it for FM C-liner motive power was far easier.
 



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