Magnetic Uncoupler Placement

[Dameon]

Hey all, I need some guidance on the placement of permanent magnetic uncouplers for the layout I am planning. I've never really had a need for them before, as I could always reach everything and simply poked the couplers with a tool to unhook them. This time though, I am trying to include them right from the beginning as I plot my track plan.

Where to place them on a ladder siding or at a yard throat is pretty easy to understand. But what do you do when you have a passing siding or classification type yard? Here's a picture to use as an example:

In this case we have a passing siding used to sort and shuffle a train as well as a spur running off to an industry. Where would I position the magnetic uncouplers in a situation like this? (Ignore the sectional pieces and just focus on the track plan!)

 

[UP2CSX]

I'd mount one just beyond the switch leading to the industrial spur. That should handle any cars you want to drop at the spur. If you are really going to use a siding to break up a train, you'll have to use the main line as a runaround. It's not a very good idea operationally. If you want to go ahead with it, you need magnets just past the switches to the siding and another one just about in the middle of the main line compared to the siding.

 

[lmackattack]

magnets should to be on a part of track that is straight and that the car ends will not be pointed diffrently. the magnets push the couplers apart and if the cars are in a curve they will not work correctly. How far back from a curve or switch depends on the lenght of cars you run. rule of thumb is take the longest lenght of car you run and thats how far back from a a start of any curve the magnet should be placed. I made a quick pic of what im talking about

Trent

 

[DaWolf85]

magnets should to be on a part of track that is straight and that the car ends will not be pointed diffrently. the magnets push the couplers apart and if the cars are in a curve they will not work correctly. How far back from a curve or switch depends on the lenght of cars you run. rule of thumb is take the longest lenght of car you run and thats how far back from a a start of any curve the magnet should be placed. I made a quick pic of what im talking about

Trent

To add to this, therefore with that specific track diagram, you will have problems with your uncouplers.
Personally, I'd suggest switching to some other method of uncoupling. But if you do want uncouplers on the track, you'll need either a longer siding or a straighter siding. Or both.

 

[CoolRuehle]

Why not an electro-magnet?

I donm't know how these magnetic uncouplers work, but why not an electromagnet?

One that only works while you push a button?

Can ya do this?

--Jon

 

[lmackattack]

jon you can use a electromagnet if you want to wire one up. If I recall most are round and are smaller than the flat magnets so you need to stop the train directly over it. standard flat magnets give about 20 scale feet to stop the train over. I have used both and they do work well if your couplers are free to move.

 

[DaWolf85]

I do know that Kadee makes uncoupling electromagnets.

 

[UP2CSX]

Kadee #309 electromagnetic couplers work fine and are much more reliable than plain magnets. The stronger magnetic field helps balky couplers move. The magnetic field is about two inches long so car placement is about same as the normal magent. The downside is cost (about three times the cost of the normal undertrack magnet) and the need to not only wire each installation to some kind of control panel but also provide a pretty beefy power supply, since they require 16-18 volts and draw 3 amps. The electomagnet is also strong enough to pull magnetic wheels off the track if you don't get the uncoupling position just right. I've tried them but the cost and complexity just wasn't worth the effort.