lots of questions

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


mbaker

mbaker

New Member
hello everyone i am new here, i use to play with N scale when i was a kid and my dad has some amazing O scale trains that will probably make some grown men on here cry with envy! but i have been out of the model railroading scene for quite some time and now have no idea whats going on. DCC? whats that and how do i control it? i have seen vids on youtube and it looks like great stuff. also i just picked up a lot of track, Atlas, Tyco, Bachman, and stuff like that, it is ok to use it all together? i plan on weathering it to my liking so it all having different looks doesnt bother me too much. also are there any threads, links and what not that i should read?

thanks
mike
 
Welcome and good luck!

What scale?

There are tons of threads to answer your questions just use the search and see if that helps.

Mixing track shouldnt be a problem.

DCC runs constant power to the track and the decoder in the loco picks up a signal and that is how the train is controlled.

Read up and ask more questions. Everyone will help out.

Have fun.
 
thanks a lot, and im doing HO... i am in the right section right? and i have been reading about DCC but can you still run non DCC trains on the track?

mike
 


Technically yes, in some cases, but in some cases no. For example, a few DCC systems will allow you to operate a strictly DC engine on the rails using address "00". But, they'll sound like a cat having its claws sharpened, and not happy about it. The pulsed current, unlike pure DC, will cause the motor to squeal and squawk.

Also, the engine should not be left to sit on powered DCC rails...it should be removed or it should be left on rails that can be manually isolated from the power, say via a toggle switch. The motors often heat up and will possibly fry themselves or the plastic over them.

As to your original question, DCC is digital command control, and it requires a DCC base controller with a built-in or a hand-held throttle. Also, each locomotive must have a decoder, or a microprocessor to control the motor and the lights. If it is a sound decoder, it must also have a speaker built into a part of the engine, or a tender in the case of a steamer.

I would suggest you go to Loy's Toy's website and read his DCC primer.

-Crandell
 
Your track is nickel silver and not brass right? I saw tyco and got worried not knowing if your talking about rolling stock or track lol
 
Littlefoot14 said:
Your track is nickel silver and not brass right? I saw tyco and got worried not knowing if your talking about rolling stock or track lol
Click to expand...

talking about track, i have a ton of atlas track and i am thinking about tossing the rest (didnt take the abuse as well as the atlas) but what is the differnce between the two tracks?

mike
 
Selector said:
Technically yes, in some cases, but in some cases no. For example, a few DCC systems will allow you to operate a strictly DC engine on the rails using address "00". But, they'll sound like a cat having its claws sharpened, and not happy about it. The pulsed current, unlike pure DC, will cause the motor to squeal and squawk.

Also, the engine should not be left to sit on powered DCC rails...it should be removed or it should be left on rails that can be manually isolated from the power, say via a toggle switch. The motors often heat up and will possibly fry themselves or the plastic over them.

As to your original question, DCC is digital command control, and it requires a DCC base controller with a built-in or a hand-held throttle. Also, each locomotive must have a decoder, or a microprocessor to control the motor and the lights. If it is a sound decoder, it must also have a speaker built into a part of the engine, or a tender in the case of a steamer.

I would suggest you go to Loy's Toy's website and read his DCC primer.

-Crandell
Click to expand...

thanks! i will be looking this up tonight.

mike
 
Brass is harder to keep clean.
Nickel Silver doesnt tarnish as bad and is easier to clean.
Brass in my opinion looks more realistic and is easier to weather.
I use nickel silver myself.

I have all my tracks hooked to a toggle switch on each block.
UP is DCC - center off - Down is DC
 
mbaker said:
talking about track, i have a ton of atlas track and i am thinking about tossing the rest (didnt take the abuse as well as the atlas) but what is the differnce between the two tracks?

mike
Click to expand...

I would recommend getting some flex track, it's very easy to work with and you are not constrained to the curves of sectional track.

Get these two books.

http://www.amazon.com/Track-Planning-Realistic-Operation-Railroader/dp/0890242275/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_cart_1

http://www.amazon.com/Dcc-Made-Easy-Railroad-Railroader/dp/0890246165/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1276785666&sr=1-1

If you're going with DCC, I would recommend not running any non-DCC locos. You can have a loco with just the DCC decoder and no sound which is alot cheaper than one with sound. (that is if your worried about price).

Do you have a plan for a layout yet? What's your available space? What era and railroad do you want to model?, give us details and we can help you.
 
mbaker said:
thanks! i will be looking this up tonight.

mike
Click to expand...

Actually, I may have that wrong...Loy's might be closed. Try Tony's Train Exchange instead...there is a DCC primer there for sure, an excellent one.

Sorry if I steered you wrong earlier.

-Crandell
 


Motley said:
I would recommend getting some flex track, it's very easy to work with and you are not constrained to the curves of sectional track.

Get these two books.

http://www.amazon.com/Track-Planning-Realistic-Operation-Railroader/dp/0890242275/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_cart_1

http://www.amazon.com/Dcc-Made-Easy-Railroad-Railroader/dp/0890246165/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1276785666&sr=1-1

If you're going with DCC, I would recommend not running any non-DCC locos. You can have a loco with just the DCC decoder and no sound which is alot cheaper than one with sound. (that is if your worried about price).

Do you have a plan for a layout yet? What's your available space? What era and railroad do you want to model?, give us details and we can help you.
Click to expand...

sweet thanks for the help guys. and as for the plan for the layout and size i am still working on that. probably small to start with 4'x8'? and i am looking into modern era, some steam locos, and diesels. but i am still looking into track plans, i have a lot of track, 3 bridges, a turn table, and switches.

thanks
mike
 
mbaker said:
sweet thanks for the help guys. and as for the plan for the layout and size i am still working on that. probably small to start with 4'x8'? and i am looking into modern era, some steam locos, and diesels. but i am still looking into track plans, i have a lot of track, 3 bridges, a turn table, and switches.

thanks
mike
Click to expand...

Don't be limited by a standard 4'x8' sheet of plywood. Get as much space as possible, 3 bridges and a turntable is going to take up alot of space. If your space is a spare room? Might I suggest an around the walls shelf layout. 24"-30" wide going around the room and operate in the center.

When I started my first layout 6 months ago, I was going to try a small layout, and then quickly realized I wanted a bigger layout, I'm glad I did, it's 12' x 15' with an additional extension room 9'x9'. And I'm having fun building it.
 
Motley said:
Don't be limited by a standard 4'x8' sheet of plywood. Get as much space as possible, 3 bridges and a turntable is going to take up alot of space. If your space is a spare room? Might I suggest an around the walls shelf layout. 24"-30" wide going around the room and operate in the center.

When I started my first layout 6 months ago, I was going to try a small layout, and then quickly realized I wanted a bigger layout, I'm glad I did, it's 12' x 15' with an additional extension room 9'x9'. And I'm having fun building it.
Click to expand...

i have a extra room but i need to store it because my wife wants to make it into a guest bed room. i was going to do it on foam board, but i guess i could do two separate boards and take them apart when not in use... how hard would this be to do? and also how can you tell if you have code 83 or code 100 track?

mike
 
mbaker said:
i have a extra room but i need to store it because my wife wants to make it into a guest bed room. i was going to do it on foam board, but i guess i could do two separate boards and take them apart when not in use... how hard would this be to do? and also how can you tell if you have code 83 or code 100 track?

mike
Click to expand...

You said your usuing Atlas track right? If so, the easiest way to tell code 83 from code 100 is (assuming its not weathered) code 83 has brown ties and code 100 has black ties.
 
Talk her into an eye level layout on three walls. Can still have a bed and dressers. Just lock the power at night so the guests dont play all night.
 


FunValleyLine said:
Talk her into an eye level layout on three walls. Can still have a bed and dressers. Just lock the power at night so the guests dont play all night.
Click to expand...

hahaha nice! she gave me the ok for a L shape layout that can be split ini two sections. another question i have a lot of code 100 track, can i use that in the back are (where its not seen as much) and use code 83 in the front? basically can they work together?

thanks
mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top