roundhouse
Member
Have you heard of Thomas Yorke? 30 years ago, he was producing great HO scale hydrocal-based kits, but now he's pretty much into O scale. Anyway, I found a new independent kit-maker by the name of Cigarbox Studios, and he has 3 hydrocal-based kits on the market that represent stone buildings from the turn of the century, with upstairs residences. I recently built La Tienda General Store, and was so impressed that I believe he may be the next Tom Yorke!
I applied heavily diluted Tints-All colors directly to the unsealed stones. I did not attempt to color each stone individually. Instead, I worked small areas with one color, all the way around the building, and then followed with 5 more colors gradually filling in the untinted areas. Once all of the stones had been colored, I used Tints-All Lamp Black as a wash over the entire building. As you can see, it was absorbed inconsistently, which looks very realistic to me. Finally, I dry-brushed some of the stones with white acrylic paint.
Scott Mason of South River Modelworks recommends Formula 560 for window "glass", but I prefer Testors Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker, because it dries faster and it cures crystal clear. The Paper Creek Shingles were applied with Walthers Goo instead of white glue. I used a Jet Tip on the tube of Goo, to place a thin bead on the back of each shingle strip. I opted for a full-height chimney, no awnings (I didn't want to hide the great looking stonework, especially the arch above the front door), and no screen on the front door (I didn't want to hide the period wavy glass).

I applied heavily diluted Tints-All colors directly to the unsealed stones. I did not attempt to color each stone individually. Instead, I worked small areas with one color, all the way around the building, and then followed with 5 more colors gradually filling in the untinted areas. Once all of the stones had been colored, I used Tints-All Lamp Black as a wash over the entire building. As you can see, it was absorbed inconsistently, which looks very realistic to me. Finally, I dry-brushed some of the stones with white acrylic paint.
Scott Mason of South River Modelworks recommends Formula 560 for window "glass", but I prefer Testors Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker, because it dries faster and it cures crystal clear. The Paper Creek Shingles were applied with Walthers Goo instead of white glue. I used a Jet Tip on the tube of Goo, to place a thin bead on the back of each shingle strip. I opted for a full-height chimney, no awnings (I didn't want to hide the great looking stonework, especially the arch above the front door), and no screen on the front door (I didn't want to hide the period wavy glass).
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