Kato SD40-2 HO shell issue


B

bigB

Active Member
Ok, so I just finished my latest project. I custom painted, decaled, and DCC/sounded a previously Undecorated older run HO Kato sd40-2. #37-2700.

The frame fits over the chassis and the shell fits into the frame via 4 little tabs. When I put the shell back on, I believe the shell is slipping down to far and making it so the flywheels can't turn as the unit moves very slowly or not at all with the shell on. It runs flawlessly with the shell off, sound great. The speaker is not the issue with space.

My question, and I preface this having done about two dozen custom sound installs but never one on an older sd40-2 Kato (yes I replaced the crappy pickup system w hardwire kit), is--is it best to put the frame on first then slip the shell into it while both are on the chassis or is it better to mate the frame and shell together first and the attempt to seat it on the chassis? I've tried both and so far I guess the shell at its thickest part is seated to deeply and binding the flywheels at their sides. I'm tempted to canopy glue the two together, let it dry, and then try.

Thanks for your input,

Brad
 
Brad, every one I have done, I have put the walkway/sill onto the shell, then slipped the entire assembly onto the metal frame. I found out the hard way the plastic runner where the brass pickup strip used to go needs to stay with the engine.
Are the new, improved pick up wires getting tangled up in the flywheels? I have had the light tubes interfere with the circuit board, bending it down so it touches the flywheels when I put the shell on.
 
Terry,

Thanks for the pointers. No the wires aren't getting tangled and they're fairly organized. I do have headlights and both front and rear ditch lights as it's a Loksound. I took the top shell weight out but that doesn't seem to be a factor. I did keep the old electrical power strip holder but tossed the copper strips themselves.

I just left home til tues so I'll have to fiddle with it when I get home.

Brad
 
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You can try some modeling clay on the decoder, and when you put the shell on, it will show you where the interference is. You won't need much, just put it on the high points and see where it hits.
 
bnsf971 said:
Brad, every one I have done, I have put the walkway/sill onto the shell, then slipped the entire assembly onto the metal frame. I found out the hard way the plastic runner where the brass pickup strip used to go needs to stay with the engine.
Are the new, improved pick up wires getting tangled up in the flywheels? I have had the light tubes interfere with the circuit board, bending it down so it touches the flywheels when I put the shell on.
Click to expand...

I have done the above also and used some blue tac to see if there is any interference
 
Hey guys I appreciate the input, but the problem is not the shell itself fitting snugly, it's the shell going too far down and therefore pinching the flywheels.

Thanks,

Brad
 
Got it all fixed up guys. The shell was just sitting a little low on the sill/frame. Runs like a top now...On to handrails and touch up...

Brad

F1A8DC10-0B35-4E19-BDB7-B634B46E48DD_zpsa18zwe8w.jpg
 
Motley said:
Nice good to hear. But you didn't say how you fixed it?
Click to expand...

Michael,

I just made sure all four plastic tabs were seated correctly. I think before they were seating at different times and it made a couple of them attach lower when I worked the others into place. This is an older kato, so a couple drops of lube also helped the mechanism and should be good for its lifetime.

Brad
 
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