Kadee couplers - intro.


V

venksv

New Member
Hi guys,
ok, very weird - thought I posted it but can't see it anywhere! Here goes again:

Newbie here still in the planning stages. I have a bunch of HO rolling stock with mixed and/or broken couplers. From what I've read, Kadee seems to be the way to go. However, I'm having trouble figuring out which kind of coupler to get and also an explanation of the various coupler-specific terminology that's used. Could someone point out links/threads that have this info? I found this (http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?autocom=custom&page=Kadee-Resources) which is more UK focused. Any other links that guide you to the right coupler to get?

Thanks,
Venky.
 
Figures i didnt work i am useing a not so smart smart phone. Another way to get there and i just did it kadee.com then go to the tab conversions and you will get a link for scale and then a list of companies and it will give the couplers that fit there cars by number. sorry about the link not electroic inclined
 
venksv said:
Newbie here still in the planning stages. I have a bunch of HO rolling stock with mixed and/or broken couplers. From what I've read, Kadee seems to be the way to go. However, I'm having trouble figuring out which kind of coupler to get and also an explanation of the various coupler-specific terminology that's used.
Click to expand...
This is another instance where it is easy to make it harder than it has to be.

Kadee makes many many couplers for one-off applications. Most people don't have to worry about those. Most people only need to know about the #5 and the #148. The #5 was the main stay of the hobby from the mid 1960s until just a few years ago with the introduction of the #148. The difference between them is that the #5 has the coupler unit (shank head) and a separate brass spring. The #148 is called a whisker coupler because the springs are built in. So in this regard the #148 is much easier. Open the coupler pocket box, drop the coupler in, close the box. With the #148 there is no separate centering spring to smash or pop out like the #5 has (they both still have a knuckle spring).

From there the entire 40 series of couplers are variations of the #5. There is every combination of a long shanks, short shanks, and overset and underset heads. In the 1000s of cars that I have converted through the years only 10 or so have needed one of these special couplers. Mostly locomotives and passenger cars will need them. I doubt you will need to even think about any of these for a freight fleet. Ditto for the entire 30 series.

If you are dealing with really toy train type cars where the couplers are mounted on the trucks then Kadee makes a whole set of couplers for those too (the 20 series). I believe they call them Talgo couplers. I don't know much about them. Usually cars with truck mounted coupers are so cheap they are not worth coverting to Kadee couplers.

If you are really going to start converting the fleet, I would recommend your first purchase be the coupler height gauge tool. Nothing more frustrating than converting bunches of cars only to find some couplers are too high, some are too low, and they won't stay coupled the first time a train hits a bump in the track.

The final curve I will throw in here are the two Kadee types called the #58 and the #158. These are exactly like the #5 and #148 except they have a smaller, more scale sized, knuckle head. Kadee calls them "scale" heads. One would use those couplers for looks. They are compatible with all the others.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Only thing I'd add to Iron Horseman's excellent discussion is the concept of consists... I came back into the hobby with tons of rolling stock with horn-hook couplers, but little motive power. All the locos I bought had "kadee" style couplers. BUT since I run mostly passenger or ore-car sets, I found it simple to pick a "head car" for various consists, change over the kadee coupler on one end of that car to mate with the loco, and leave the rest horn-hook. That's fine for me since I do little switching and making/breaking of trains... For someone with extensive switching and consist-creating operations, that wouldn't work at all. Simply saying it's a way to save a LOT of time and hassle as you convert...
 
Iron Horseman - much thanks for the concise explanation. Was getting a bit overwhelmed with all the diagrams on Kadee's site but this gives me a lot more focus.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
A very timely question for me as I'm just starting to build six flat cars from Tichy Train Group. They call for the #5 coupler but, it sounds like the #148 would be better for this rookie. I have a related question. The instructions with these cars also calls for C-13 washers for the couplers if using the included trucks. I can't find such a washer listed with KD and Tichy Trains Group hasn't answer my request for information. What should be used?
Again, thanks Iron Horse.
 
I went back and reread the instructions. A bit slower this time. :rolleyes:

"Note: If using Athearn trucks, provided, also use spacer washers C-13 to put the car at correct height. If you use Kadee trucks do not use the washers."

It seems C-13 refers to sprue "C" and item "13".

I must be getting old. :(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top