"Jigsaw" Enginehouse.....

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tenwheeler

Member
A couple of weeks ago, I went to a train show and spotted a Model Masterpieces kit (Kit #119, 2 Stall Engine House with Power House). I had seen one on Ebay, but when it topped $160.00+ in bids, I stopped watching!

I started to pick up the box, and the dealer said "I'll make you a good deal on that... it's sort of broken up. I opened the lid, and looked in at the pieces of plaster chunks that used to be a FSM kit. I thanked him and moved on. As that was the last day of the show, and as I was making one last pass.. he saw me near his table, and said "twenty bucks...". I thought, you've done dumber things in your life..., and I forked over the $20.00.

The kit should have had 9 large plaster sections, and it had 26 plus a dozen or so small chunks. My problem is what would be the absolute best adhesive to use on this puppy? I figure after filling in all the remaining gaps with dental plaster, I can cover the major cracks with "ivy vines" (thanks to Woodland Scenic), and then I can "sculpt" stone lines in the smaller ones.

So if anyone has any idea of the best glue to use, I would surely appreciate a "heads up" on the problem. Thanks... Bob
 

Cjcrescent

Master Mechanic
I've "glued" some of these back together before and the best I've found is white glue. Tried plaster, but didn't work. "Paint" the glue onto both surfaces, and clamp it together, masking tape makes a good clamp. Let it dry for at least 24hrs. Then mix up a real "soupy" mix of plaster and "paint" the plaster into the defects on the surface. Recarve details as necessary.
 

HaggisKennedy

Coal Shoveler
I considered white glue initially, but I don't like the fact that it's water soluable. That didn't bother me initially, until I bought a ratty old building at a train show, and tried to rinse off all the gunk that was on it (dust, dirt, cobwebs, etc.). That's when I found out it had been assembled with Elmer's Glue. It all went to pieces!

I've used diluted white glue to seal the porous plaster, but beyond that, I stay away from white glue on buildings unless I'm gluing on foliage...

Kennedy
 

SpaceMouse

Fun Lover
A couple of weeks ago, I went to a train show and spotted a Model Masterpieces kit (Kit #119, 2 Stall Engine House with Power House). I had seen one on Ebay, but when it topped $160.00+ in bids, I stopped watching!

I started to pick up the box, and the dealer said "I'll make you a good deal on that... it's sort of broken up. I opened the lid, and looked in at the pieces of plaster chunks that used to be a FSM kit. I thanked him and moved on. As that was the last day of the show, and as I was making one last pass.. he saw me near his table, and said "twenty bucks...". I thought, you've done dumber things in your life..., and I forked over the $20.00.

The kit should have had 9 large plaster sections, and it had 26 plus a dozen or so small chunks. My problem is what would be the absolute best adhesive to use on this puppy? I figure after filling in all the remaining gaps with dental plaster, I can cover the major cracks with "ivy vines" (thanks to Woodland Scenic), and then I can "sculpt" stone lines in the smaller ones.

So if anyone has any idea of the best glue to use, I would surely appreciate a "heads up" on the problem. Thanks... Bob
If it was me, I shuck the plaster and build it out of board and baton styrene. It won't be exactly like the one on the box, but it will look good and be unique.
 

CIOR

Central Indiana & Ohio RR
I used joint compound to put my plaster cast viaduct together. 3 years now and NO issues. The bond soaks in and holds it and locks it TIGHT.

I wouldn't use Gorilla Glue at all, I've also used White Glue, but that can be soaked loose too.

The nice thing about the joint compound, it will lock it, but you can carve detail into it. Made it nice too.
 

Alcomotive

Grandson of ALCO Bldr
I am with CIOR...use joint compound but I would also ad this...(depending on the structure) If you treat it as a real life building sorta speak you may want to add reinforcement as in "dowels". I have done this using pins, needles and tiny double thread screws. Any ways joint compound is a good adhiesive and workable. Clamps can be scary on delicat plaster pieces....tying strings or use of rubber bands maybe suitable too. Good luck.
 
Wasn't that the glue that expands, so you HAVE to clamp it well?
Yes it does so clamping well is best. And I found you can dremel it after it dries and it accepts paint.

Joint compound and white glue are good and re reading the thread i think it depends on the situation as to how well they will work.

However, I thought about this thread today as I was putting on webbed tape while doing a drywall repair.

I think you could put the pieces together however you want and put webbed drywall tape on the inside and put a coat of plaster, drywall mud or even the drywall fast patch (the kind you mix that dries fast) to reinforce it. And then after it dries cut your openings back out.

Anyway good luck with it.
 

CIOR

Central Indiana & Ohio RR
I forgot to mention taping in the thread. Wasn't until I read Alco's post that I remembered it.

You can use anything paper wise or the gauze tape on the backside to reinforce it. Pins also work, just be careful on thinner pieces not to bust it.

On the viaduct I used pins to hold it too.

You would be suprised at how well joint compound works.

DON'T USE SPACKLE. Not the same. Will dry firm and will be a lot more on the brittle side to work with.
 




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