Info on Athearn GP-38
- Thread starter MLW
- Start date
ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)
Captain Pierce
New Member
I picked up a beautiful black Athearn RTR Norfolk-Southern GP38-2 a few weeks ago. Got home with it, stuck it on the rails, gave it power, and watched it go nowhere fast.
I pulled off the cover (which is very easy and slick compared to a few cheapies I have, I just got back into model trains and only have a couple of cheap engines and rolling stock) and noticed a big gaping hole where the front drive shaft should've been. Doh! Needless to say, the front truck was doing a great imitation of a set of brakes as a result.
So I took it back, and the hobby shop owner kindly gave me an upgrade on an Atlas Trainman version with DCC.
So, while I didn't actually get to run my Athearn, two things caught my eye. First, detail is great, and second I like how the cover slips off when you apply pressure to the correct area. The Atlas cover is secured by the coupler housings, and putting those things back in is a pain.
I pulled off the cover (which is very easy and slick compared to a few cheapies I have, I just got back into model trains and only have a couple of cheap engines and rolling stock) and noticed a big gaping hole where the front drive shaft should've been. Doh! Needless to say, the front truck was doing a great imitation of a set of brakes as a result.
So I took it back, and the hobby shop owner kindly gave me an upgrade on an Atlas Trainman version with DCC.
So, while I didn't actually get to run my Athearn, two things caught my eye. First, detail is great, and second I like how the cover slips off when you apply pressure to the correct area. The Atlas cover is secured by the coupler housings, and putting those things back in is a pain.
ICG/SOU
HO & O (3-rail) trainman
Atlas Trainmans have a better, quieter drive, are easier to convert to DCC (since it already has a light board in it with a 8-pin plug), and the shell is easier (for me) to get on and off. On the other hand, the detail of the Trainman is akin to the older Athearn Blue Box GPs (no grabirons, etc.).
The Athearn GP38s (and the basic $50-$70 line, including GP40s and GP50s), have some good detail, and run well. To convert to DCC, I recommend getting out the soldering iron, a TCS T1 decoder with harness, some of that high-temp tape, and either get a resistor with a couple of LEDs, or totally disconnect and not run the cab light the locomotive comes with. It's a little bit of work. I thought the hardest thing was to isolate the motor from the frame, but doing the LEDs is more difficult. The Digitrax DT or DH123AT (with the harness for the non-quick plug Athearns) has too much wire, and you'll have to cut some of it off or tie it off to prevent it from getting wrapped up in the flywheels and drive shaft.
They went quickly, but my favorite GP38-2s were made by Proto2000. Some places still have them. They have a great level of detail, good weight, a good quiet drive system, and are DCC ready. The only issue with them is to disconnect and remove the number board lights (front and rear) since the factory wired them to the motor or track pickups (can't remember off the top of my head) and if left in place, the electricity will damage the decoder.
The Athearn GP38s (and the basic $50-$70 line, including GP40s and GP50s), have some good detail, and run well. To convert to DCC, I recommend getting out the soldering iron, a TCS T1 decoder with harness, some of that high-temp tape, and either get a resistor with a couple of LEDs, or totally disconnect and not run the cab light the locomotive comes with. It's a little bit of work. I thought the hardest thing was to isolate the motor from the frame, but doing the LEDs is more difficult. The Digitrax DT or DH123AT (with the harness for the non-quick plug Athearns) has too much wire, and you'll have to cut some of it off or tie it off to prevent it from getting wrapped up in the flywheels and drive shaft.
They went quickly, but my favorite GP38-2s were made by Proto2000. Some places still have them. They have a great level of detail, good weight, a good quiet drive system, and are DCC ready. The only issue with them is to disconnect and remove the number board lights (front and rear) since the factory wired them to the motor or track pickups (can't remember off the top of my head) and if left in place, the electricity will damage the decoder.
Captain Pierce
New Member
Yeah I can attest to the quiet Atlas drive, when the store pulled it out of the box to make sure it worked, I was only a couple of yards away with my back turned and I had no idea it was running. About all I can hear at home is the clackity-clack of the wheels whenever they cross the minuscule gaps in the track.
Plus, the Atlas even has little people inside the cabin, which I think is a nice touch.
Plus, the Atlas even has little people inside the cabin, which I think is a nice touch.
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)