How to frame this?

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chessie_system3

Well-Known Member
I have started planning my next layout. I have hit a roadblock. How would one frame this? I want to keep the sections separated for expansion purposes. I don't plan on using the track plan just the base of the layout only. I have even drawn this out on graph paper and still can't figure out how to set up the benchwork. Any recommendations or suggestions? Screenshot_20220103-150429~2.png
 

santafewillie

Same Ol' Buzzard
My only suggestion is straight down from top to bottom, into two pieces. The half to the right seems too large to separate for expansion, and if you can't do that, then no need to separate the left side.
 

chessie_system3

Well-Known Member
My only suggestion is straight down from top to bottom, into two pieces. The half to the right seems too large to separate for expansion, and if you can't do that, then no need to separate the left side.
Willie the planned expansion or at least how I invision it would be left from right. I think the right side has ample enough space to sustain itself as is. The issue I have is figuring out how to set up the frame work for it. You are in the know of what location this layout will be placed in. I just need the bench work to hold up and not warp. The 2x4s I used on my current layout is what brought this one down. They were shotty from the jump.
 

dave1905

Well-Known Member
On the left side I would make two corner pieces that were squares with one corner cut off and then a rectangular piece connecting the two. On the right, I would make two big pieces. They would join at the deep Vee in the footprint. The bottom one would connect to the bottom left corner piece. I would make a short piece to connect the big section and the upper left corner.

If you move the layout to a location with a different space, the smaller filler pieces can be replaced with different pieces to adjust the size.
 

D&J RailRoad

Professor of HO
I think your frame support will depend on what your roadbed decking is. If you're using 1/4" plywood, you'll need more framework to keep the plywood flat.
 

chessie_system3

Well-Known Member
Here's a sketch I did up. I had wanted to do L girder framework. However the sketch I have done up is open grid.
IMG_20220115_092112459.jpg
Not 100% sure how well it will work out. Any thoughts?
 

chessie_system3

Well-Known Member
I had wanted to purchase all the materials today before the storm hit. With current prices of lumber I was afraid to invest that much for fears of it all warping again. Is there a sure fire way to avoid warping? Is it something I'm going to have to learn to deal with?
 

PowrCab

Member
Not sure what your exact 'roadblock' is...Just beware though that if you go ahead with your plan in post #6 it's an archaic duck-under type which after a while can become a pain in the abutment !!.... Or, will it include a lift-up or swing-out section to ameliorate that ?
 
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chessie_system3

Well-Known Member
Not sure what your exact 'roadblock' is...Just beware though that if you go ahead with your plan in post #6 it's an archaic duck-under type which after a while can become a pain in the abutment !!.... Or, will include a lift-up or swing-out section to ameliorate that ?
I don't mind the duck under aspect. I am planning on raiding the layout height for easier access. I figure if I can fit under my current layout then a higher duck under shouldn't be too bad.
 

santafewillie

Same Ol' Buzzard
I don't know your conditions very well, but I have found 1/2" plywood to be particularly warp resistant when used with 1" x 4" high quality framing and cross braces. The quality of the 1" x 4"'s is real important.
Duckunders can be a real bitch as we age. I have a 52" "stoop-under" on my upper level, but it would take a lot of extra lumber to build an entire island layout that tall.
 

chessie_system3

Well-Known Member
I don't know your conditions very well, but I have found 1/2" plywood to be particularly warp resistant when used with 1" x 4" high quality framing and cross braces. The quality of the 1" x 4"'s is real important.
Duckunders can be a real bitch as we age. I have a 52" "stoop-under" on my upper level, but it would take a lot of extra lumber to build an entire island layout that tall.
I find that 48" at my age is ok. My current layout is 36". I work on it just fine. Then again I'm young still as well. Now I use 1/2 plywood as well. That's what I used for my current layout. The previous layout was 3/8. It warped to the point I couldn't run my trains anymore. So I upgraded. I had thought we had a conversation about my current layout in regards to it's location and the conditions it in. My layout resides in my garage. So it falls victim to all sorts of conditions. Even though I have air vents in the garage to help with temperature it's still gets rather cold in the winter and hot in the summer. I blame my current issues on the shoddy 2x4s I used for the sides. I went against my better judgement. Looking at other layout bench work in all the books I have and they all use 1x4s for the framework. After looking at my warp spots. None of them seem to be caused by the 1x4s I used. Then again I may be missing something as well. I re-used 1x4s from the last layout. This go around I plan to use all un-used lumber. Rule out any concerns with my current lumber. So that's where I'm at.
 

roofintrash

Active Member
Have you considered framing it out with metal studs? Once you have the basic outline done, you could lay 1x3 on top of the studs to form your l-girder and go from there. It would help with humidity changes and such out in the garage. Just a thought.
 

chessie_system3

Well-Known Member
Have you considered framing it out with metal studs? Once you have the basic outline done, you could lay 1x3 on top of the studs to form your l-girder and go from there. It would help with humidity changes and such out in the garage. Just a thought.
I have not thought of this. I have read up on such things. However it may be an option.
 




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