Necrosaro420
Member
I am planning on building a double row of tracks. What is the rule/how far apart should the tracks be so that they wont rub each other while passing by?
How far apart should 2 tracks be?
- Thread starter Necrosaro420
- Start date
Depends on whether the tracks are straight or curved, and if curved, how tight the radii and what type of equipment you are running.
The NMRA standards for track-to-track spacing are a good place to start.
The NMRA standards for track-to-track spacing are a good place to start.
It depends where your tracks are.
If it is a straight mainline run, I believe the NMRA standard is 2 1/4" on center. If its in a curve, be sure to test the distance out with your two biggest pieces of rolling stock to make sure they dont collide in the apex of the curve. Make adjustments. Finally, in a yard, you may want to give yourself more room so that you can easily fix derailed cars, reach rolling stock, etc.
The NMRA has standards for on center difference and can be found on their website. They are only standards, so just use some common sense when it comes to curves, straight runs, and yards.
If it is a straight mainline run, I believe the NMRA standard is 2 1/4" on center. If its in a curve, be sure to test the distance out with your two biggest pieces of rolling stock to make sure they dont collide in the apex of the curve. Make adjustments. Finally, in a yard, you may want to give yourself more room so that you can easily fix derailed cars, reach rolling stock, etc.
The NMRA has standards for on center difference and can be found on their website. They are only standards, so just use some common sense when it comes to curves, straight runs, and yards.
lmackattack
old school
it all depends on radius and lenght of car
a larger radius will alow for ease of over swing and end swing of a car
the tighter you make a radius the farther the tracks should be spaced.
check this out scroll down to HO scale and you will see what radius and car types will need for clearance
http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/s-8.html
Necrosaro420
Member
Im not totally sure the radius, im new to this type of thing =) The outside goes to the edge of a 4x8 sheet, and im going based off this layout but not quite the same as below. I assuming the outside rails is the 22 radius. Im going with an older era (50's) so from what ive been reading the cars are not that long compared to newer eras. Also, would anyone happen to know what the "6" near the bottom are? What does the 6 mean? On the site I got this image from it doesnt explain. Thanks!
Last edited by a moderator:
lmackattack
old school
those #6 represent the switch.
switches are numbered to indacate their "size"
#4, 4.5, 6,7,8 etc..... the smaller the number the tighter the switch or sharper the curve,point rail exits off of the straight route.
a number 6 switch is perfect for running short cars and steam engines. Im going to guess the other switches are #4 or #4.5s?
your out side track plan radius shows a 22" your inside radius is 18.2-19.2"
for a 1950s era this is ok for 40' freight cars. but will be tight for passenger cars
switches are numbered to indacate their "size"
#4, 4.5, 6,7,8 etc..... the smaller the number the tighter the switch or sharper the curve,point rail exits off of the straight route.
a number 6 switch is perfect for running short cars and steam engines. Im going to guess the other switches are #4 or #4.5s?
your out side track plan radius shows a 22" your inside radius is 18.2-19.2"
for a 1950s era this is ok for 40' freight cars. but will be tight for passenger cars
Last edited by a moderator:
Necrosaro420
Member
Thanks, I dont plan on running any passenger cars and do plan on using a steam engine. As far as the 18.2/19.2 radius, im going to assume the 19.2 are pieces of flex track? As I can only find 15/18/22/25 radius on ebay
lmackattack
old school
I think you are correct that it will need to be flex track between 18-22" radius. If I were you I would try to use 18" sectional track in those aera as I have always had issues with flex track when used below 22" radius. yes you will have a slightly tighter radus but the sectional track will lay better with that tight of a radis. On my home layout 90% of all my curves are 18" or 22" sectional and I have no issues after 6 years. Flex track always trys to bend back to straight and you will forever fight that. sectional stays put over time ...just my opinion tho...
sectional track in this pic
flex track in the easy radius and yards
sectional track in this pic
flex track in the easy radius and yards
Since that particular HO 4X8 layout is published here in my Layout Design Gallery, I can tell you for certain that the layout is based on flextrack, not sectional.
The outside curve radius is indeed 22", as marked. The number "6"s are #6 Atlas Customline Code 83 turnouts, the balance are #4s. You need these broader turnouts in the crossovers for reliable operation.
The inner radius at the right hand side is 19.5" in order to achieve 2.5" track-to-track spacing from the 22" curve for a little extra room on those relatively tight curves.
To keep things simpler, I kept the 2.5" track-to-track spacing on the straight sections at the top and the bottom of the plan as well. The small "yard" uses 2.25" track-to-track spacing. It could be a little tighter, but this allows a bit of finger room just in case.
There will be some significant fiddling to make this exact plan work with sectional track. You would probably end up cutting a few (or many) sections to different lengths anyway, so it might be a lot less trouble to learn to use flextrack, IMHO.
Best of luck.
The outside curve radius is indeed 22", as marked. The number "6"s are #6 Atlas Customline Code 83 turnouts, the balance are #4s. You need these broader turnouts in the crossovers for reliable operation.
The inner radius at the right hand side is 19.5" in order to achieve 2.5" track-to-track spacing from the 22" curve for a little extra room on those relatively tight curves.
To keep things simpler, I kept the 2.5" track-to-track spacing on the straight sections at the top and the bottom of the plan as well. The small "yard" uses 2.25" track-to-track spacing. It could be a little tighter, but this allows a bit of finger room just in case.
There will be some significant fiddling to make this exact plan work with sectional track. You would probably end up cutting a few (or many) sections to different lengths anyway, so it might be a lot less trouble to learn to use flextrack, IMHO.
Best of luck.
Last edited by a moderator:
trailrider
Well-Known Member
One option not mentioned is using sectional track with a radius between 18" and 22". Where does one get such a thing? Shinohara makes HO sectional track in a bunch of radii that Atlas, et al, do not. In constructing my new layout, I determined that, while I would have liked to use 22" curves on my main line (I run a lot of passenger equipment), I just couldn't fit it in in several critical areas. Even passenger trains that are supposed to run on 18"R track, work better on larger radius curves. What to do???? Turns out that Shinohara makes 20" radius curves, which I ordered from Walthers. They also have a bunch of curvatures between 18" and 15" which might help on branch lines. For those with large layouts, I believe they go up to 30" curves and a number of in between 22" and 30".
toptrain2100
Member
re to
far enough to keep the wheels on the track and off the ties. Unless they are loud ties then they deserve to be ripped up
far enough to keep the wheels on the track and off the ties. Unless they are loud ties then they deserve to be ripped up
