Hoping to create an HO layout


Samjames

New Member
Hello all,

I am new here, and new to the hobby. I would like to start an HO layout (4X8?) without anything complicated as scenery. First I am interested in finding out what sort of tracks to purchase. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Hey Sam.....welcome aboard! You've made a good start, you've decided on what scale you want. You asked about track, you have several choices to choose from. flex track, sectional track, track with roadbed, track with out road bed, what rail profile to get, code 100, code 83 or code 70 (these are the heights of the rail measured in thousands.) Composition of the rail, brass or NS- nickel silver. Research Sam research! That's what model railroading has become, a study in research! 😁😁
As a suggestion, Atlas has layout kits that comes with track to complete a chosen track plan. You get to choose the plan. Might help give you a basic working knowledge of model railroad track.
Other people will be along.......
Again, welcome to the adventure.....👍
 
If your not sure , start with Atlas code 100 NS Snap-Track . You can usually buy it by the bucket load on ebay for around $.25 - $.50 a stick , NS will probably be on the high side of that . What you want to avoid is steel track . NS switches will run $5 - $10 used . Brass is ok here and there but it oxidizes fairly rapidly.

Snap-Track is preformed so you can just lay it out and see how it looks then move it around until your satisfied. Then you can add roadbed and tack it down .

Later on you try a different brands of switches and see what you prefer.
 
I would recommend Atlas Snap-Track on the curved portions of your layout. On a 4' x 8' board, let us say you have an oval of track (NOT saying you have to do a oval, but for continuous running you will wind up with some sort of at least semi-circles at each end). If you use 22" radius curves, you will have about 2 inches on each side from the center of the track to the edge of the layout. That could present a hazard if a train gets knocked over the edge. Eighteen-inch radius Snap-Track will give you more room from the edge. Of course, you might combine pieces of 22" and 18" track, depending on the design. The pieces will fit together with no problem. There is also 15" radius Snap-Track, which might be used for sidings inside the wider radius curves. For the straight portions or moderately curved track, flex-track can be handy. It will depend on what rolling stock you want to use. I would definitely go with NS, as it is far easier to keep clean for good contact. (OTOH, I have used brass when I first started in the hobby, about 60 years ago, and salvaged and am using some on my current layout in yards and sidings. Just have to clean it once in a while.) You will probably want to stick with four-axle diesel locomotives and smaller steamers. Six-axle diesels can be problematic on 18" radius, but it will depend on the model.
Some steam locos can work fine on 18" curves. I would not recommend a 4-8-8-4 Big Boy, however! Probably a 2-8-2 Mikado would be about the largest. Some of the newer Bachmann engines are short enough wheel base for your purposes. I have kitbashed the out-of-production Mantua engines so that I can get 2-10-4's to run around 18-20" radius curves, but that takes some doing!
For freight cars, I would recommend 40-ft., although 50-ft will work. Passenger cars are more of a problem nowadays. Although you can get 85-ft cars to work on 18" curves, you would be better off finding some of the old Athearn Blue Box or ConCor shorties (72'), if you can find them.
I would use cork roadbed under your track.
Be SURE to ask questions here and elsewhere. Welcome to the Forum and the hobby.
Stay well and safe!
 
If you build a table, make sure it has supports in the middle. Trains are very sensitive to grade, and if you put only four legs around a 4'x8' table, it will sag in the middle - you might not notice it to look at it, but the trains will.
 
I am new here, and new to the hobby. I would like to start an HO layout (4X8?) without anything complicated as scenery. First I am interested in finding out what sort of tracks to purchase. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I agree with the others, Atlas Custom Line code100 or code 83 track, Maybe Peco turnouts. Peco also makes sectional track but it is hard to find in these United States. Same answer for Hornby, very hard to find in USA.

Avoid Atlas TruTrack and Life Like PowerLoc Track. They just don't have the variety of pieces to go very far beyond basic loops with cut offs and spurs.

Bachmann EZ-Track on the other hand has a great variety of pieces, but still restrictive. They used to have trouble with their turnouts, and I don't know if they have resolved the issues with them or not. Finally it is expensive.

I understand the Kato UniTrack is really good, but have zero experience and don't know anyone personally who uses it. Just looking at the website it seems to have lots of curve options, but only one crossing (a 90 degree), and only 2 types of turnouts. That seems sparse to me.
 
Thank you all for the fantastic help and warm welcome! I understand that I need to start with Atlas snap-track, try to keep with 22" and 18" radius. I am hoping to select from the below locomotives (I used to own Marklin tracks and train in the mid-seventies). I hope they would work with the Atlas code 83 track and the abovementioned radii:

www.walthers.com/glass-train-pwr-obs-car#
www.eurorailhobbies.com/product.asp?ca=2&sc=HO&er=6&stock=R-73116
www.eurorailhobbies.com/product.asp?ca=2&sc=HO&er=3&stock=PK-52404
www.eurorailhobbies.com/product.asp?ca=2&sc=HO&er=5&stock=BR43138

Thank you again,

Sam
 
Sam - Welcome aboard our forum. You have the right idea of starting simply. I agree with the other posters regarding the track choices.
It appears that all of the engines that you listed will work. But note that the Walthers one comes with a DCC decoder and is out of stock. I believe that all DCC decoders will run on DC powered track, but it is an expensive add-on if DC is the way you are going.
 
Hi Sam, welcome. If you are just trying to decide if it's a hobby you want to take up, my local shop has a boxed train set that will get you started for less than half the $ for one of the locomotives you listed. It's American style trains, you didn't mention where in the world you were. It should include a train, track and power supply. An even less expensive option, this forum has a for sale/wanted to buy section and if the other members are anything like me, they all have too much stuff and would be happy so send some quality stuff your way for a good deal.
 
Thank you for the wonderful suggestion Paul! I am absolutely open to starting inexpensively, second-hand or discarded HO rails, locomotives, rolling stock, etc. If I start somewhere I should be able to build upon it. I am indeed in the US (not that anyone can tell from my poor writing)!
 
Nothing wrong with modelling European rail, except for finding available rolling stock, and for compatibility with electrical systems. kjd's suggestion may be an easier way to get started. Welcome to the hobby!
Stay well and safe!
 
Nothing wrong with modelling European rail, except for finding available rolling stock, and for compatibility with electrical systems. kjd's suggestion may be an easier way to get started. Welcome to the hobby!
Stay well and safe!
Thank you for your kind words Trailrider! I will definitely listen to the wisdom, and follow excellent suggestions shared with me here!
 
Thank you all for the fantastic help and warm welcome! I understand that I need to start with Atlas snap-track, try to keep with 22" and 18" radius. I am hoping to select from the below locomotives (I used to own Marklin tracks and train in the mid-seventies). I hope they would work with the Atlas code 83 track and the abovementioned radii:

www.walthers.com/glass-train-pwr-obs-car#
www.eurorailhobbies.com/product.asp?ca=2&sc=HO&er=6&stock=R-73116
www.eurorailhobbies.com/product.asp?ca=2&sc=HO&er=3&stock=PK-52404
www.eurorailhobbies.com/product.asp?ca=2&sc=HO&er=5&stock=BR43138
Pumping the brakes a bit. You need to make certain locomotives like this are designed to work on two rail track. I looked at them and can't tell other than the Trix. I know Trix are basically Marklin but made for two rail operation. The reason I say this is because Marklin tracks have buttons in the center of the ties that basically make them function as three rail. If any of those locos need Marklin track they will not work on the Altlas. Likewise I don't know if Marklin tracks two outside rails are independent or not. If they are electrically coupled it will not work with the Atlas whether the rails line up right or not. Would be an instant short circuit. Any Marklin folks out there who can answer this?
 
Pumping the brakes a bit. You need to make certain locomotives like this are designed to work on two rail track. I looked at them and can't tell other than the Trix. I know Trix are basically Marklin but made for two rail operation. The reason I say this is because Marklin tracks have buttons in the center of the ties that basically make them function as three rail. If any of those locos need Marklin track they will not work on the Altlas. Likewise I don't know if Marklin tracks two outside rails are independent or not. If they are electrically coupled it will not work with the Atlas whether the rails line up right or not. Would be an instant short circuit. Any Marklin folks out there who can answer this?
Arg! Thank you for the incredible catch Iron Horseman! This is the nitty-gritty I am most afraid of. Make the financial commitment just to find out the tracks, DCC, locomotive, rolling stock, or something else is mismatched.
 
Not to worry, pretty much all American HO equipment will play together or be easily adapted to do so. As far as I know, Marklin (German) is the only HO that is not 2 rail.
 
Phew! Thank you Paul for the wonderful news. It is too bad those German manufacturers do not make that clear! So, Marklin has a subtle version of Lionel's three-rail tracks.
 
If your not sure , start with Atlas code 100 NS Snap-Track . You can usually buy it by the bucket load on ebay for around $.25 - $.50 a stick , NS will probably be on the high side of that . What you want to avoid is steel track . NS switches will run $5 - $10 used . Brass is ok here and there but it oxidizes fairly rapidly.

Snap-Track is preformed so you can just lay it out and see how it looks then move it around until your satisfied. Then you can add roadbed and tack it down .

Later on you try a different brands of switches and see what you prefer.

Couldn’t agree more with your more. Good advice.
 



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