Homosote


Rico said:
By improved I mean if they’ve fixed the moisture/swelling issues since the early stuff.
I can guarantee it wasn’t so water proof early on, I definitely remember homasote roadbed sponging up.
Much like particle board does.
Good to know it’s better now.

edit: This is reminding me of a club I was in using kittie litter for ballast. Wow, next morning after a work session the track was floating two inches above the layout! 😆
Click to expand...
I went to the source just to clarify here's what I got back from Steve technical engineer at Homasote
so whatever they were using not true Homasote

Mike,

Due to the presence of paraffin wax in the mix, Homasote is considered to be slightly hydrophobic in nature. While that does not make the substrate “waterproof” it does give it a very good relationship with water. Incidental contact with water will never be an issue.

Homasote would never have “sponged up” water. The product has been made in the same way since we first made it in 1909. There have, however, been other fiberboards on the market over the years that are made from wood fibers in an adhesive matrix rather than from recycled paper and wax. These product do tend to absorb water. These other fiberboards often get called “homasote” generically as Homasote is the “Kleenex” of fiberboards.

I’ll be pleased to discuss this in greater detail. Feel free to give me a call here at the Homasote Tech Desk. We appreciate your interest in our product.

Regards,

Steve
 
Hutch said:
Why are you opposed to foam? It's easy to cut with a hor wire or bandsaw like I do. No nails, glue everything, I use hot melt glue for everything but track and roadbed. Those are glued with latex caulk. I've seen tortoise switches glued to the bottom of foam as well. You could glue a square of wood to the foam first to screw them in for easy removal. I don't see any disadvantages.
Click to expand...
Hutch I've tried foam and don't like all the glue needed I would change track design and then had to deal with the glue with spiking or small nails easy to change
I have use foam a lot for mountains etc works great for that also if someone leaned on the foam decking it left indents in it which I could see

Back in the early 70's foam was not so available either just one old man's opinion
 
Hutch said:
I believe the first to be true but I don't nail my track so that's no benefit for me. I may nail my track on the new spline section though just to try it. Sound insulation is pretty good using WS foam roadbed. I've heard ballasting nullifies that but I'll have to see it/hear it to believe it. On the coffee, I'll have to test it, I usually put my coffee on the nearest surface that is not what I'm working on, desk, bench, table saw or anywhere but on my layout.
Click to expand...
Well, keep in mind that that foam roadbed and foam insulation are two different types of foam. One is soft, which can act as a sound deadener. The other is hard, which doesn't virtually nothing for deadening sound.

And the OP stated in his very first post that he would like to match some already existing Homasote on some existing benchwork. As stated in his second post, he's not really opposed to going with foam, he 'd just prefer to match what he already has.

Anyway, just wanted to clarify a few reasons why someone would want to go with Homasote as opposed to foam insulation. Personally, since I don't hand-lay track and a little extra noise doesn't bother me, just like you I prefer foam insulation too as my main construction technique, and for all the same reasons you mention. :)
 
747flier said:
Does anyone still use homeosote in layout construction or has this been replaced with foam techniques. Neither Lowe's or the "Homeless Despot" seem to have this stuff anymore. I was looking to add to some layout framing that had this track bed material.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
You don't say where you are located there is a where to buy on Homasote's site maybe that would help

Also it might be special order at your local home depot ask for 440 SoundBarrier instead of homasote

here's a search I did
https://www.homasote.com/wheretobuy?distance=100&search=46530&State=IN&City=Elkhart
 
The what I have against foam is sort of a when did you quite beating your wife question. I have nothing against foam, but am modifying an existing benchwork, increasing the radius of curves and matching the thickness and characteristics of the existing materials is more convenient. Not 100% necessary however. I do like the ability to hand lay track and the stuff is used for sound deadening.

For big airplanes a permissible inoperative item is entered in the log and a numbered DMI sticker is placed near the item. Some joker once made up "Make Do" stickers. So if I can't get what I want I'll make do....

Cheers: Tom

PS, I'm in Alaska...
 
AHH Alaska looks like Spenard Builders Supply will special order I'd still ask at Home Depot or even at Lowe's

Here's a old big airplane Picture taken by a friend of my father
 

Attachments

  • Scan-220404-0001.jpg
    Scan-220404-0001.jpg
    261.6 KB · Views: 57
Honestly, I'm not far enough along on this ALL foam project to be saying anything. Just seems like a good idea to me. I'll let you know when it does become a problem. 🥴
 
FWIW, one of the biggest advantages to Homasote "back in the day" was its sound deadening qualities. Running trains at highish speeds over layouts scenicked with the (then) typical wire screen or chicken wire screen scenery base added something of an "echo-chamber"effect, as a lot of it could be an almost hollow, speaker-like space, surrounded by a plaster hard shell. And on older layouts, you can definitely hear it.

With today's somewhat more common foam board scenery, the main problem with sound is when you have foam (unlikely) or sheet plywood used for a yard (a lot more likely) which is not tightly fastened down, either with construction adhesive, glue, screws, whatever. Any loose ends can act much like the cone inside an audio speaker would. Not quite jackhammer teeth grinding, but the vibes can still be annoying.

If you can avoid those, then using builder's foam boards might be better than anything Homasote ever had to offer anyway. Cork or not.

Plus...anything narrow gauge is likely to run at slower speeds anyway too. Quieter.
 
As I am sure many on here know, I am an evangelist for Homasote. My original layout was Homasote on 1/2" plywood and is still in use approximately 35 years later. It has been in two different homes, in two different states. I have never had a problem with swelling. It was sealed with plain old latex paint, top only and when I removed my original yard, 6-8 months ago, I couldn't remove the nails without creating a tool to pry them loose. I just finished an expansion of my layout, adding a new yard. Built the expansion exactly the same way. I bought my Homasote at Home Depot, in Easton, PA. My layout, old section and new, was built using 1x2, 1x3, 1x4 and 2X2's, in cookie cutter style. It can be taken apart, in sections, to be moved. Because of that, weight really isn't a problem. Anyway, have you seen the size of the Gorilla's that move your stuff. Glenn
 
So SoundBarrier 440 is the product commonly called homasote and used on model railroads that is being discussed? I used "homasote" 30 years ago with my last permanent layout and it just looked like wadded up newspaper pressed into a 4x8 sheet..
 
boatwrench said:
So SoundBarrier 440 is the product commonly called homasote and used on model railroads that is being discussed? I used "homasote" 30 years ago with my last permanent layout and it just looked like wadded up newspaper pressed into a 4x8 sheet..
Click to expand...
440 SoundBarrier® is a special-density, structural board made from 100 percent environmental Homasote® cellulose fiber, a homogeneous composition manufactured with uniformly distributed protection against termites, rot and fungi, and resistance to moisture. It also insulates with twice the R-value of wood.
www.menards.com

Homasote® 440 SoundBarrier® 1/2" x 4' x 8' Sound Deadening Panel

440 SoundBarrier® is a special-density, structural board made from 100 percent environmental Homasote® cellulose fiber, a homogeneous composition manufactured with uniformly distributed protection against termites, rot and fungi, and resistance to moisture. It also insulates with twice the...
www.menards.com www.menards.com

 
I can't tell it's newspaper from looking at it I do know it's made from a ground up slurry
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0580.JPG
    DSC_0580.JPG
    531.8 KB · Views: 54
  • DSC_0582.JPG
    DSC_0582.JPG
    255.2 KB · Views: 57
747flier said:
Does anyone still use homeosote in layout construction or has this been replaced with foam techniques. Neither Lowe's or the "Homeless Despot" seem to have this stuff anymore. I was looking to add to some layout framing that had this track bed material.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I thought I commented on this, must have been someone else's thread... In my opinion foam is a poor substrate for your roadbed or track. I used plywood and/or luan laminate; however to me homesote is just as good.

Especially if you have any grade changes. Using a wood product with risers can make grades easy. Foam is just plain weak. It is weak and does not hold stuff very well. Great for terrain however I would not use it for that either as hydrocal is a superior product for strength, cleanliness, and moldability (while wet).

I know foam is the new "cola" but I will go with strength over cool.

Dave LASM
 
It is not just the weight of the trains/scenery. Foam does not hold track nails good. I played with just this for awhile and found that I could stand on 28" wide 2" foam at 16" centers. 1" at 12" centers would also hold my weight. Cork glued down for roadbed did hold the nails with the ties for the short time I played with this. No idea of longevity though. The other problem is that it does flex somewhat and you could have problems down the line when you press on anything causing other stuff to come loose.

Note that I am not a believer of 1/2 ply ( or greater ) with 1" foam as that is probably way overkill. Next play time for me is to try 1/8" ply sandwiched on top of 1" foam. Being the cheapie I am, gonna try cutting the foam about 1/4" thick and beveled like the cork roadbed we buy. Might have to add a touch of glue to those nails but that is pretty easy. Having the ply will allow for large vertical radii with somewhat of an easement.

Later
 
@747flier if you find a source for Homosote up here let me know. I use it on my current layout and really like the fact that I can easily re-arrange the track, as I've never quite made it to scenery yet. I brought the homosote I have up with me when I moved up here. If you how much do you need?
 
BF#13: I saw that Lowes says they have it on line but out of stock in the store, gal showed me where it was "supposed" to be. Supply chain issue for a probably low demand item. So they may have it on occasion.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top