HO Walthers passenger car curve derailment


S

southern154

Member
I have a fleet of 8 walthers passenger cars that are tuscan red and lettered for NS' OCS. I bought my 8th the other day, and after doing my routine inspection and adjusting, the car's first WHEEL not truck would derail exiting a curve. I have had trouble with walthers cars doing this in the past on almost everyone I have had (I have 24" radius turns), but after larger flanges and or longer shank couplers they were all fine, but this one continues to derail not matter which way I run it, but it will not do it in reverse. The track is in gauge, and the car's wheels are too. What is wrong?
 
Does it have weights inside the car? If it does they weight could have shifted to that one corner throwing the center of gravity off to the point it always derails.
 
Not that I know of, It was a brand new walthers car off of an ebay retailer that I buy from often. Maybe if I were to put weights in it that would help. Thanks
 
Before you add the weights, roll the car on a flat surface and check to see if the wheel is actually hitting the the surface then try it on curves. Keep a careful eye on the truck and the wheel as it could just be a bad wheel.
 
southern154 said:
I have a fleet of 8 walthers passenger cars that are tuscan red and lettered for NS' OCS. I bought my 8th the other day, and after doing my routine inspection and adjusting, the car's first WHEEL not truck would derail exiting a curve. I have had trouble with walthers cars doing this in the past on almost everyone I have had (I have 24" radius turns), but after larger flanges and or longer shank couplers they were all fine, but this one continues to derail not matter which way I run it, but it will not do it in reverse. The track is in gauge, and the car's wheels are too. What is wrong?
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Sounds to me like an out-of-true truck - e.g. warped vertically and carrying that one wheelset a hair higher than the rest. Since it's the wheel nearest the coupler, the "okay when pushing" thing makes it suspicious - the pressure of the coupler pushing rather than pulling would tend to "bear down" that end of the truck a bit.
 
I took my hand over it and moved it across the area, and felt some tension in the trucks, turns out it was the back wheel being too tight, and it caused the front to derail. I loosened the truck, and it runs fine for now. I will post some more if it happens again. thanks for the input.
 
I have trouble with most walthers cars on 24 inch radius, they all need some modding, some body detail scrapes the truck, I have to loosen the truck, file away detail. Working diaphrams is neet, but is a derail risk on curves, so I add longer shank couplers, the other end sehlf couplers to prevent uncoupling on verticle curves. KATO...NOOO probs
 
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