HO track ..... radius and switch question

[kfh227]

I'm hoping to do a layout soon. My son said he'd rather have HO than N. To those that answered my N scale questions. THANK YOU!

So, HO. What brand/code of track should I use? I want the same brand for switches and track. And I want the track to be flex track. My concern is functionality only, not looks.

Also, I want to run everything possible. That means things as big as a Big Boy. What is the minimum radius I shoudl plan on? Also, what # switches should I use?

I want remote switches. But nothing tied to DCC. My concern there is reliability.

 

[Tuna]

I still vote for Kato Unitrack - switches and all.
The Kato Switch controls us a regular DC power supply and I've never have a problem with them. I use DCC for locomotive control.

Depending on the Bigboy you buy, it may not be the limiting factor on minimum radius. If the model has enough 'articulation' under the boiler, a Bigboy can handle smaller radius turns than 6-axle diesels or even an FEF-3. Articulated steamer are "articulated" to allow them to run or smaller radius turns than, say, a 2-10-2 which is smaller overall but has a longer rigid wheel base.

That's my 2 cents.

 

[BRS Hobbies]

I agree with Tuna. KATO Unitrack is a high quality track system with excellent electrical connections and very good functioning turnouts. The KATO Unitrack is also compatible with other brands of code 83 so you can use it with flex track.

Best regards,
Brian

 

[kfh227]

I still vote for Kato Unitrack - switches and all.
The Kato Switch controls us a regular DC power supply and I've never have a problem with them. I use DCC for locomotive control.

Depending on the Bigboy you buy, it may not be the limiting factor on minimum radius. If the model has enough 'articulation' under the boiler, a Bigboy can handle smaller radius turns than 6-axle diesels or even an FEF-3. Articulated steamer are "articulated" to allow them to run or smaller radius turns than, say, a 2-10-2 which is smaller overall but has a longer rigid wheel base.

That's my 2 cents.

Assuming I want to be able to run anything possible, what radius am I looking at?

 

[kfh227]

KATO Unitrack is cost prohibitive. I'm expecting the final layout to be in the order of hundreds of feet. That stuff looks like it is $3/foot.

A 3' section of Atlast flex track can be had for $5 or $1.66 per foot.

When talking hundreds of feet, we are talking big bucks.

Would it be possible to use Atlas flex track (code 83) in combination with the kato switches and would this union require no extra stuff? I can literally take two pieces and put them together?

 

[kfh227]

If i do not do Kato turnouts, what brand makes the best remote turnouts? Either code 83 or 100 is fine if one or the other is better. And by better, I mean least likely to cause derailment.

 

[LoudMusic]

If you're wanting to run big equipment you'll want >24" radius. Anything less and you rapidly start running into problems with reliability and aesthetics.

For performance and cost Atlas code 100 flex and #6 and #8 turnouts are hard to beat. #4 turnouts will likely degrade reliability for big equipment, though I have no personal experience with that combination.

 

[QRR Fan]

Depending on the Bigboy you buy, it may not be the limiting factor on minimum radius. If the model has enough 'articulation' under the boiler, a Bigboy can handle smaller radius turns than 6-axle diesels or even an FEF-3. Articulated steamer are "articulated" to allow them to run or smaller radius turns than, say, a 2-10-2 which is smaller overall but has a longer rigid wheel base.

I have the Athearn Big Boy, and it handles 18" turns and #4 turnouts at slower speeds, but looks way retarded doing it. The real Big Boys would need a 42" radius in HO to make the turn . Mine does look 'ok' on 24" curves though.

 

[BRS Hobbies]

As far as cost, a couple things to consider -

1) You still need to buy a roadbed with the flex track which adds slightly to the cost.

2) It's also a time factor. Some really enjoy laying flex track but some don't. Laying KATO Unitrack is a very fast process and all the wiring is plug and play with multiple feeders and blocks.

3) Generally, KATO Unitrack is always fully recoverable compared to traditional track using cork roadbed (which is almost always ballasted with glue) can be damaged if one has to pull up the rails.

Not saying one track is better than another for everyone but it is important to way out all the factors when making a decision on which track to use.

Connecting KATO HO Unitrack to other brands of code 83 is done by removing the UniJoiner from the ends of the track pieces that connect to the code 83 track and then use standard nickel silver code 83 rail joiners at each of these track joints. You will also need to use a roadbed on the code 83 track to adjust the rail height to the same height of the KATO HO Unitrack.

Best regards,
Brian

 

[ICG/SOU]

If you don't want to run Kato turnouts, then Atlas (Custom Line), Peco, or Walthers (Shinohara) will be fine if you aren't going to handlay (Fasttracks).

I've come to the realization that frog size needs to fit both space considerations as well as what is going to be run on it.

If you're going to have a spur (a stub-ended piece of track) for an industry or loading dock or something, as long as the car isn't in excess of 75 scale feet, then a #4 is as small as I'll go. You're just dealing with spotting, say, a covered hopper or two in front of a grain mill/elevator or a boxcar or two on a loading dock. If you have an intermodal yard and are using well cars, TOFC flats or autoracks, then go as large as you can (#6 minimum).

For mainlines (interchange tracks, yard leads, passing sidings, etc.) you'll want a minimum of #6.

The issue with frog length can be mitigated when you go slow onto the diverging route. Frog length doesn't matter much when the switch is closed and you're just going straight. In real life, for setting out cars or yard work, you're not going very fast anyway.

My caveat: If you're running steam or such, then the longer the frog, the better.

 

[Tuna]

I have the Athearn Big Boy, and it handles 18" turns and #4 turnouts at slower speeds, but looks way retarded doing it. The real Big Boys would need a 42" radius in HO to make the turn . Mine does look 'ok' on 24" curves though.

I have the Athearn Genesis Big Boy and Challengers and they do "handle" 18" turns but they look better on 22" or bigger. I have several DVD's which show 3985 taking "S" bends and other turns and the way the front engine swings out from under the boiler is impressive.

My Genesis 844, which has a longer rigid wheel base, doesn't like the 18" curves at all.

 

[kfh227]

I read at the NMRA web site that locos/cars/etc are supposed to be designed so that they can handle 22" radius curves. makes sense to have a stipulation. From everyones input however, I think I will be going with 24" minimum and I might try to get atleast one mainline to be 40" or so minimum. Planning on 3 or 4 mainlines.

 

[sd24b]

I'm hoping to do a layout soon. My son said he'd rather have HO than N. To those that answered my N scale questions. THANK YOU!

So, HO. What brand/code of track should I use? I want the same brand for switches and track. And I want the track to be flex track. My concern is functionality only, not looks.

Also, I want to run everything possible. That means things as big as a Big Boy. What is the minimum radius I shoudl plan on? Also, what # switches should I use?

I want remote switches. But nothing tied to DCC. My concern there is reliability.

i would suggest min. rad.24" code 82/82 flex. I am very fond of Micro Engineering for laying out curves. Atlas is to springy. Shinohara/Walthers turnouts. Phil