HO layout leg size


J

Joe G

Member
I am ready to begin building an 8ft x 2ft starter table top layout, which will consist of two 4ft x 2ft modules, bolted together with carriage bolts. I will be using 1 x 4 pine, to build the frame, but need some advice as to what size lumber to use for the legs. I have seen you tube videos, which recommend the use of 1 x 4s, glued and screwed into L shaped legs. Figure I will have 8 legs in total to support the 8ft x 2ft layout.

My question is whether the 1 x 4 lumber will be sufficient for the legs or are 2 x 4s needed. In addition, what is the standard height for an HO layout.
 
Joe G said:
I am ready to begin building an 8ft x 2ft starter table top layout, which will consist of two 4ft x 2ft modules, bolted together with carriage bolts. I will be using 1 x 4 pine, to build the frame, but need some advice as to what size lumber to use for the legs. I have seen you tube videos, which recommend the use of 1 x 4s, glued and screwed into L shaped legs. Figure I will have 8 legs in total to support the 8ft x 2ft layout.

My question is whether the 1 x 4 lumber will be sufficient for the legs or are 2 x 4s needed. In addition, what is the standard height for an HO layout.
Click to expand...

The 1X4's are plenty for legs screwed together in an L. I have 6 legs under a 16ft long by 3ft wide & they are plenty strong.
 
Joe G said:
Larry, thanks again. What material did you use to support your track?
Click to expand...

I used 1/2" CDX 4 ply. For track I use Model Power cork roadbed. My cross braces under the table are every 2 ft. on center. The CDX has 1 side that is fairly smooth & that's the side I put up.:D
 
What's the going rate for 1/2" CDX in Arcadia? Did you cover the CDX with foam, or did you go right to the CDX with the cork roadbed.
 
Joe G said:
What's the going rate for 1/2" CDX in Arcadia? Did you cover the CDX with foam, or did you go right to the CDX with the cork roadbed.
Click to expand...

In 2007 when I bought the CDX it was 12.00 bucks a sheet(4x8). When I added the 16ft table in the middle between the rest the CDX was $13.00 a sheet. haven't bought any since 2009 & I'm sure it has went up. I bought mine at a local Ace Hdw. & they delivered it for free. The Lowes & Home Depot were just 50 cents more & I would have had to go 75 miles round trip to pick it up.
I use to use foam(3" pink & green) over the CDX on the previous layout for mountains, hills, lakes, etc. But, then I got it free from a const. site. When I started this one in 2007 I priced the 3" foam & it was $40.00 a sheet for 4x8 & they would have to order it. So, I decided to stick w/the CDX base.
A friend of mine just finished a layout for a customer & he used Drop Ceiling tiles over a 1/2" CDX base. That was a real nice base for scenery, tree's, roads, etc. I had never thought of ceiling tiles for a top. I've used them many times for mountain const. That layout was 28ft. by 46ft. & 2 levels. Whenever I make mountains now I make a screen cover over wood cutouts & cover it w/patching plaster. I'm CHEAP. You might price ceiling tiles & see what that comes up to for a base. they are 2ft. by 4ft. & some lumber yards sell it in 4by8ft. sheets.:D:)
I use to build custom layouts for people & back then lumber was reasonable(1978 to 1995).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Your leg plan is overkill in my opinion, but not a bad thing. I typically used 2x2s. The more important aspect is to make sure you have diagonal bracing. 1x2s usually work really well - they don't have to be maximum distance, just a foot or so away from the leg, and down the leg, forming a right-triangle. That will help keep the leg from bending. Of course, the longer you make them the more rigid they could potentially be.
 
LoudMusic said:
Your leg plan is overkill in my opinion, but not a bad thing. I typically used 2x2s. The more important aspect is to make sure you have diagonal bracing. 1x2s usually work really well - they don't have to be maximum distance, just a foot or so away from the leg, and down the leg, forming a right-triangle. That will help keep the leg from bending. Of course, the longer you make them the more rigid they could potentially be.
Click to expand...

You lost me on the diagonal bracing.
 
Larry, Home Depot up here in NJ has 4 X 8 sheets of 15/32 CDX for $27 and 15/32 cabinet grade sanded plywood for $19. Sounds like the sanded plyoood may be the answer.
 
Joe G said:
Larry, Home Depot up here in NJ has 4 X 8 sheets of 15/32 CDX for $27 and 15/32 cabinet grade sanded plywood for $19. Sounds like the sanded plyoood may be the answer.
Click to expand...

Sometimes you can get pressure Treated Plywood cheaper than regular grades.
 
2x2 are strong enough and easy.

Can we see your plan?

Steve
 
Last edited by a moderator:
choops said:
Can we see your plan?

Steve
Click to expand...

Plan, we don't need no stinkin plan.

On a serious note the installment I am planning for this 24" x 48" section, will be an engine facility, complete with a "Pike Stuff" two stall engine house, yard office and fueling pad. I am considering a four or five track wide facility, with two tracks running thru the engine house.

Switches will connect both tracks to a yard lead at the entrance and exit ends of the engine house. One track leaving the engine house will end in a single track relay position with a bumper.

This plan is still being formulated between the ears.
 
Maybe a different thread is deserved, but........................

The height of your layout is really important. Make it too low and ducking under can be a real pain. Too high and you can't see everything. I made mine at 52" so I could sit on a bar stool and see it at near eye height. I can work on the slo-mo switch machines without being hunched over by sitting on a short deck chair. I think it's better for photography too. Plus, you have room for more storage under the layout.
 
I used the 36" height of our kitchen counters as a template and took into consideration my 8yr old grandson. I used 36" legs to support the 24x48 frame, which will be covered with 1/2" plywood and an undetermined thickness of foam.

This is the first half of a 24x96 section, which will be attached to the legs with 1/4" carriage bolts and if need be, could be elevated at a future date. For now, the 36" height and 24" depth is comfortable. I intend to keep adding sections, and as the layout grows there will be varying lenghths and depths.

Anyway I'm more worried that the price of model railroading seems to be growing, while the money tree in my backyard is not.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top