Help With Wireing Up Several Modules


If you do decide to go with a Free-mo module or two remember that there is Free-mo and then there's everything else. A Free-mo module has to be compliant to a T. A pseudo Free-mo module will neither work nor be welcomed.

The modules that i have designed to the Free-Mo Standards are/will work with others if i take them to shows or meets. I made sure of this when i was designing them in the track planning program. I even had a couple members on the Free-Mo Yahoo Group look them over, and they all said they looked good and they even gave me some construction of the modules tips and stuff like that.... So im well aware of all the other standards about Free-Mo modules other then the wiring lol
 
Just a thought Josh, but have you thought about how you are going to transport them, how many you are going to transport, and what you are going to make the frames out of?
If you want them as strong and as lightweight as possible, you might want to think outside the box a little bit. Take a look at this idea. http://www.fcsme.org/karlb/id4.htm
You may also want to view the S&S guys and waffle frames for bigger modules. http://www.mindspring.com/~gugliotta/
The module frame in the FCSME article is now 8 years old, spending most of its time in a trailer, except for 4 shows a year and breif stints in my basement. Neither winter cold nor summer heat have had any ill effect on it, except for the scenery is getting a little tired from the trailer bouncing all over behind the truck. Little "Louanne" as we call her, also has 2 big sisters, 6 ft in length that are outweighed by some of the other club members pine 4 ft frames! They are incredibly light, strong, and not that hard to build. In fact, I'm building 3 more later this week! The layers are laminated together with Elmers wood glue (It's waterproof when dried) usually 48 hours before cutting. All cutting is done on a table saw (for precision) and the panels go together with more wood glue and small brads fired out of an electric stapler!
No matter whose standard you make them to, modules have this neat habit of getting heavier as you get older. This is the voice of experience here. If you are serious about setting up for Freemo shows, or with a local modular group, make it easy on yourself. You'll enjoy the show even more!:)
 
Cool. Now share the tips!:D

I have some bad news :eek: :eek:

When i was writing this response to share the tips that i got from the guys, a train car fell from the top of my old shelf layout and cracked my Mac Laptop screen. Well i could only see about a quarter of the screen and could not find the submit button to post what i had already written, and it was long :mad:

Im on my dads Mac Book right now, and mine has been scheduled for a trip into the local Apple Store today to get the screen replaced. Im hoping this wont take more then a week to do, but until then, i wont be on the forums all that much, except to check in every once in a while while my dad doesnt have to use his laptop :rolleyes:

Its a shame and i feel horrible, my Mac Book was the first thing that i have bought on my own that was a lot of money (only 19 years old lol) and the screen broke due to my stupidity :(

When i get it back, ill see about typing up another go at sharing the information that i saved from them
 
Just a thought Josh, but have you thought about how you are going to transport them, how many you are going to transport, and what you are going to make the frames out of?
If you want them as strong and as lightweight as possible, you might want to think outside the box a little bit. Take a look at this idea. http://www.fcsme.org/karlb/id4.htm
You may also want to view the S&S guys and waffle frames for bigger modules. http://www.mindspring.com/~gugliotta/
The module frame in the FCSME article is now 8 years old, spending most of its time in a trailer, except for 4 shows a year and breif stints in my basement. Neither winter cold nor summer heat have had any ill effect on it, except for the scenery is getting a little tired from the trailer bouncing all over behind the truck. Little "Louanne" as we call her, also has 2 big sisters, 6 ft in length that are outweighed by some of the other club members pine 4 ft frames! They are incredibly light, strong, and not that hard to build. In fact, I'm building 3 more later this week! The layers are laminated together with Elmers wood glue (It's waterproof when dried) usually 48 hours before cutting. All cutting is done on a table saw (for precision) and the panels go together with more wood glue and small brads fired out of an electric stapler!
No matter whose standard you make them to, modules have this neat habit of getting heavier as you get older. This is the voice of experience here. If you are serious about setting up for Freemo shows, or with a local modular group, make it easy on yourself. You'll enjoy the show even more!:)

Sweet thanks for the links Karl!! I really would like to have lightweight modules. The ones that will be traveling to the Free-Mo meets and shows im not sure i could build so lightweight. Ill have to re-read the standards on the Free-Mo website, i think there was specific materials you have to use for certain parts, like the end plates of each module must be 3/4" or larger Oak for clamping when joining modules...

As for the others tho, i would like to try this laminating thing. Could you by chance post a tutorial when you build the next couple? I read that information in the first link but he doesn't really explain much on how he did anything and its kinda hard to tell from the pics.....
 
Sweet thanks for the links Karl!! I really would like to have lightweight modules. The ones that will be traveling to the Free-Mo meets and shows im not sure i could build so lightweight. Ill have to re-read the standards on the Free-Mo website, i think there was specific materials you have to use for certain parts, like the end plates of each module must be 3/4" or larger Oak for clamping when joining modules...

As for the others tho, i would like to try this laminating thing. Could you by chance post a tutorial when you build the next couple? I read that information in the first link but he doesn't really explain much on how he did anything and its kinda hard to tell from the pics.....

There are no requirements as to what you build your module out of, only how you construct the endplates and the first six inches. The recommended material is birch plywood as it seems to be less prone to warping and cupping.

I framed mine out of 3/4" birch and another guy used extruded aluminum. There is a balance between lightweight and durable. The majority of the time you can't have both.

Sorry to hear about the Mac.:(
 
There are no requirements as to what you build your module out of, only how you construct the endplates and the first six inches. The recommended material is birch plywood as it seems to be less prone to warping and cupping.

I framed mine out of 3/4" birch and another guy used extruded aluminum. There is a balance between lightweight and durable. The majority of the time you can't have both.

Sorry to hear about the Mac.:(

Birch and Oak, there both very durable and dont warp as easy as others lol

About my Mac, i went to the Apple store today and the guy told me if i wanted to repair it through apple it would be $750-800 to fix plus tax. I was like thats alot of money, then hes like yeah but here ill let you in on a little secret and he gave me name and info of a place i could get the screen replaced with a new from the factory Mac 13.3" screen for $289.99.

Got all the info about the place, placed the order, and its 24 hour service and there located in CA so it should only take 1 day to get there, 1 day for them to replace the screen, and 1 day to get back to me. Should get it back Saturday or Monday. Only had to pay shipping one way too, they pay FedEx Ground back to me.

The guy at the apple store said he has used them and referred them to a few people and they have excellent customer service, great repairs and quick turnarounds, and very cheap prices. In all, it cost me about $325 to fix this, new screen, tax, and USPS Priority Mail Shipping to them. Id still say thats a great deal for a screen repair

Man when the guy opened my Mac book and saw the screen, he was dude what happened to this thing? did it get shot with a bb gun? Ive never seen anything this bad before! and then a bunch of the employees gathered around and were all shocked cuz they had never seen a screen cracked so badly lol Dang train car :rolleyes: which by the way the train car broke into a bunch of pieces and went straight to the trash minus trucks and couplers.... Live and Learn i guess :rolleyes:
 
As for the others tho, i would like to try this laminating thing. Could you by chance post a tutorial when you build the next couple? I read that information in the first link but he doesn't really explain much on how he did anything and its kinda hard to tell from the pics.....

Josh
I plan on taking quite a few pictures when construction starts. Hopefully the weatherman will cooperate and give me a 50 degree or warmer day soon.
The laminating thing is real easy though. Let me explain. Our club standard is 1x4 clear pine for frames. (no knots!) The smallest modules have an exterior dimension of 24x48 inches
Dimensionally, 1 x 4's are really 7/8" x 3 1/2"
I cut the underlayment into 3 1/2" strips and coat liberally with Elmers wood glue, slap another sheet on top, add weight and let it spend time laying on the basement floor! After laminating several strips, I cut them so that when assembled, the outside measurements are correct. Now these do need to be adjusted, because you are dealing with a medium that is 10mm (roughly 1/2 inch, instead of 3/4) thick, Then additional strips are cut for leg attachment areas, cross bracing, etc and the whole thing gets glued and stapled together. It's tough to understand, but the modules are holding up well, even with legs attached are lighter than a lot of their counterparts WITHOUT legs! The frame is strong enough to support my weight (195 lbs).
I'll get pictures posted with some step by step soon.
 
Josh
I plan on taking quite a few pictures when construction starts. Hopefully the weatherman will cooperate and give me a 50 degree or warmer day soon.
The laminating thing is real easy though. Let me explain. Our club standard is 1x4 clear pine for frames. (no knots!) The smallest modules have an exterior dimension of 24x48 inches
Dimensionally, 1 x 4's are really 7/8" x 3 1/2"
I cut the underlayment into 3 1/2" strips and coat liberally with Elmers wood glue, slap another sheet on top, add weight and let it spend time laying on the basement floor! After laminating several strips, I cut them so that when assembled, the outside measurements are correct. Now these do need to be adjusted, because you are dealing with a medium that is 10mm (roughly 1/2 inch, instead of 3/4) thick, Then additional strips are cut for leg attachment areas, cross bracing, etc and the whole thing gets glued and stapled together. It's tough to understand, but the modules are holding up well, even with legs attached are lighter than a lot of their counterparts WITHOUT legs! The frame is strong enough to support my weight (195 lbs).
I'll get pictures posted with some step by step soon.

Those sound like what i definitely want to do with my modules :D Im looking forward to some pics!! Common weather lighten up and give Karl a good day so he can build and snap a few pics off hehe :D
 



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