Diesel Detail Freak
Are we talking , Cheep old school Athearn, or modern, RTR?
Sorry, Roman. That just won't work. Isolating that section of track will prevent a short on the whole layout, but you still couldn't operate trains using that track. First, by isolating that track, you have just divided your layout into blocks and you'll need to build a control panel to control them. Second, you'll need the ability to reverse the polarity of the remaining track, while the train is in the isolated section. If you need, I can draw the pictures to show why.That's why I'm planning on isolating that piece with 4 insulators!
I understand that. That's why I'm planning to operate my trains over that track in two ways.Red Oak & Western said:Sorry, Roman. That just won't work. Isolating that section of track will prevent a short on the whole layout, but you still couldn't operate trains using that track.
How is it two blocks? It's still one huge block with a dead track in the middle that won't get wired to anything anyway.First, by isolating that track, you have just divided your layout into blocks
While I'm still hoping isolation will work, if it does not, that's what I'll have to do. The station could use more turnouts.To avoid complex wiring on your first layout, I would recommend the following: eliminate the switch in square 2D4R (yellow) and the first switch in 3D4R (blue to yellow). Doing so will eliminate the reversing loop. While that will cut down on some of your operating possibilities, it will eliminate the need for a control panel and the reverse loop wiring. You can then wire the whole layout as though it were just one big piece of track.
Now I understand. Having the black section isolated and not wired would solve the wiring problem, but, as Josh says, I think that dead track will start to annoy you very fast.that won't get wired to anything anyway
Sounds great! I'm guesisng you're modelling AMTRAK? LOL.AmtrakFan said:Roman,
I am starting my 1st Model RR Layout and it is already a big mess with my Mom and I doing it. But were figuring it out.
Knuckle coupler, does it look different then the normal winged couplers on your older trains? Or is it just at a different height? Either way, i suggest using all Kadee couplers... and buying some coupler height gauge so you can test everything you own, keeping within NMRA standards will ease operations.Russian said:Finally and most importantly, two trains have ran on the layout before I dissambled it, so that's possible. But the real probem is the coupler on the Walthers GP9M. It' a very nice looking coupler, but its not the same height and has a real hard time coupling to the track mounted couplers on my IHC & Model Power rolling stock. Should i change couplers on it or readjust them somehow?
They're more dtailed and generally realistic. I think I'll be buying couplers at a modle show...jbaakko said:Knuckle coupler, does it look different then the normal winged couplers on your older trains?
Yes it will be mostly Amtrak and BN.Russian said:Sounds great! I'm guesisng you're modelling AMTRAK? LOL.
As for me, the majority of tracks should arrive in a week and the rest, including a CP Geep, in two weeks. Don't think much will be happening 'till then.
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