GP9 prototype; what to use

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


power street service

major slacker
Last year, when my son really started to get into trains, we drove by this Bay Colony GP9 everyday. We stopped on Thanksgiving for some photos, which proved to be a good thing. The train was sold soon after and is now being used by U&G Railroad (thanks Wikepedia!!) I would like to build a replica of this engine (which I've seen called a GP9r) and would like to know the best approach. What source do you guys use for decals, etc when you replicate something? Is there a specific brand engine I should buy (without spending a fortune?) Any info appreciated, Josh.

2i71w5y.jpg

20ixnqf.jpg
 
I am more of a modenr day modeler but Proto 2000 makes a nice model of a GP9. As for decals Microscale makes alot of decals. The stipres are big enought to paint, so you would only need decals for lettering, and the numbers.

-Smoke
 
I am more of a modenr day modeler but Proto 2000 makes a nice model of a GP9. As for decals Microscale makes alot of decals. The stipres are big enought to paint, so you would only need decals for lettering, and the numbers.

-Smoke

If you can, get an undecorated Proto 2000 GP9. That way you don't have to strip the shell first.

The P2K is a good runner.

Rotor
 


Its hard to tell, but the forward fan that IS visible seems to indicate Phase III as Dan stated. P2K all the day there. Athearn's are a waste as the body it too wide, and its a Phase I.
 
Looks like a phase III but the bad news is that the Bay Colony no longer has this loco. It was sold to the Grafton and Upton Railroad in March of this year. You got some of the last pics in BC paint. They still have a few other GP-9's in service but the railroad is slowly going out of business since they lost their contract with the state of Massachusetts to operate most of the ex-Conrail lines they leased on a 25 year contract in 1982. Atlas does procuce the correct version of the GP-9 and you can still get decals but I'd do it it quick since it seems the Bay Colony will soon become another fallen flag. :(
 
Looks like a phase III but the bad news is that the Bay Colony no longer has this loco. It was sold to the Grafton and Upton Railroad in March of this year. You got some of the last pics in BC paint. They still have a few other GP-9's in service but the railroad is slowly going out of business since they lost their contract with the state of Massachusetts to operate most of the ex-Conrail lines they leased on a 25 year contract in 1982. Atlas does procuce the correct version of the GP-9 and you can still get decals but I'd do it it quick since it seems the Bay Colony will soon become another fallen flag. :(

It's funny you say that, if you read my first post, the train was there for the longest time(in Taunton)then it was gone. I've been online and found pics via Wikepedia of the engine now at the G&U yard. We plan on taking a ride to see it again, maybe in a new paint scheme. My son asks at least once a week "where did that train go? Now I can show him.
 


Yep, The DCC Sound decoders they use are QSI, and the sound is Dual Mode, you can ring the bell, program and honk the horn wll with a powerpack with a direction switch. It's all in the manual if you get it.
 
Power street:

Don't let the rivet counters and pureists scare you, the Athearn model is an ok place to start. Folks rant about how "wide" the older athearns are, they are only 3 scale inches wider than they should be. Ok, so if you are gonna kitbash a correct scale shell with a "too wide" one it would be noticeable. For a new modeler, it shouldn't be too bad. For the most part different phases of locomotive production are relativly subtle.

So you have a few choices, you can spend a little on a "close enough" model, or you can spend bigger bucks on a spot on match. In the end, it's your model, your railroad. You need to be happy with the end result, as well as your budget, and dont let anyone get under your skin because "your" locomotive is not "perfect"
 
Power street:

Don't let the rivet counters and pureists scare you, the Athearn model is an ok place to start. Folks rant about how "wide" the older athearns are, they are only 3 scale inches wider than they should be. Ok, so if you are gonna kitbash a correct scale shell with a "too wide" one it would be noticeable. For a new modeler, it shouldn't be too bad. For the most part different phases of locomotive production are relativly subtle.

So you have a few choices, you can spend a little on a "close enough" model, or you can spend bigger bucks on a spot on match. In the end, it's your model, your railroad. You need to be happy with the end result, as well as your budget, and dont let anyone get under your skin because "your" locomotive is not "perfect"

Best advice ever given on a forum, thanks, Josh.
 
Here is a good photo of the Loco;

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1152884


If you plan to build a loco for your grandson to play with, just buy a old Athearn GP9 and paint it up. It'll be fairly durable and kid proof. But if you really want a accurate scale model, then you would need to find a undec Proto 2000 GP Phase 3 (they're on E-bay quite often). Unfortunately the detail is prone to breakage with a kid handling the loco. Don't worry about DCC right now, it's easy enough to upgrade later on ($15 NCE decoders that plug right in).
 




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top