Gluing track down...


S

Screwjack

New model railroader here
I have read about everyone gluing their track down with different glues and adhesives, Elmer's contact cement, and of course silicone type adhesives. I was wondering if anyone has used this stuff called "Tacky Glue" usually found in crafts stores, it comes in a sort of gold plastic bottle. My wife has used it for different crafts over the years that is how I know about it.

It is a white glue like Elmer's but is much more tacky at first,dries clear and holds well. Has anyone used it for track and roadbed? If so how did it work, good, bad or just the same as others?

Just thought I would ask as I am still trying to learn and pick up tips here and there...:D
 
I don't know the stuff, but it sounds like it is meant to stay somewhat soft and tacky? If so, I would not recommend it. Instead, what most of us use is either white glue or the cheapest acrylic latex caulk you can find. If you spread a thin bead of the caulk very thin, like you would a skiff of soft margarine, and then press your tracks into it, you will find it holding very well when it sets up, typically in about two hours. I use the odd track nail or some soup and soda tins (full ones) on their sides atop the rails to keep it all in place.

-Crandell
 
I think you're talking about Aleen's Tacky Glue. It's a more agressive type of white glue. I use it for clump foliage when I need it to stick and hold if I hold the piece for maybe 10 seconds. It would work fine for track but, at about $5 a bottle, it would be pretty expensive. A $1.98 tube of latex caulk will do the track on a pretty good size layout and, as Crandell says, it sets up fast and holds well.
 
Well since you guys have been doing this stuff for awhile I guess I should listen. I will be buying some latex caulk and trying it out...:D
 
So, how easy is it to remove the latex caulk or white glue from the tracks when you wan to remove the track for another layout or for some adjustments? Or is the track ruined and just used one time?
 
If the caulk is recent, and as thin as we said it should be, the recovery of the track is as easy as taking an old 10" blade and sliding it under the tracks. Saw and pry, see-saw and pry, slice and pry....all gently on the prying, and you'll find your tracks coming up cleanly. Remember to spare your joiners if you are using snap track/sectional track. Flextrack joiners are a dime a dozen, but the plastic ballasted track has fixed joiners that you want to go easy on. So don't pry up and try to tear away one piece or you will ruin both..probably. Free up at least three pieces before you lift the first one off and pull it away from the group.

-Crandell
 
I always ask this question when someone brings it up;; Why do you want to glue your track down?
 
Larry said:
I always ask this question when someone brings it up;; Why do you want to glue your track down?
Click to expand...

Well, I am new to this hobby and it seems that this is what a lot of people are doing that have been in this hobby for awhile.

And to be honest, it does seem easier than driving all those little nail into the track.

I think a lot of people also do it when they are using foam on the bench work, the little nails would not stick in the phone very well...:confused:
 
Larry said:
I always ask this question when someone brings it up;; Why do you want to glue your track down?
Click to expand...

stationmaster said:
Glue the track down? You'll be sorry....... Shortcuts in this hobby USUALLY lead to disaster down the road.

Bob
Click to expand...

Okay, so I am new to this hobby, I have read on this hoard all kinds of people using latex caulk to hold both the roadbed and the track down. Now that I am ready to start a layout here's two people telling me not to glue the track.

What is a new guy suppose to do? How is a new guy suppose to learn from the experts when some people say use latex caulk, and then some say use the little tiny nails???

This crap is too expensive to go experimenting and screwing up a bunch of stuff just to learn a lesson:confused::confused::confused:
 
I'm sorry, I didn't know you were using Foam as a base on your layout. I always use plywood & I nail mine down over cork roadbed. many years ago I use to glue mine down & when I went to remove the track because I had to move, it ruined everything. So, from then on I never, ever glued the track down. I use 19ga. brad nails about 1/2" to
3/4" long. The heads are a little larger than the track nails you get from the hobby shop, but works out fine when I paint the heads w/flat black paint. Then, when I move something later I don't ruin it. Everyone does it different & we are only giving you our version. I have HO Scale.
 
I glue my road bed down with white glue. Nail the track down. I rough in the layout before gluing. I've been doing the same routine since my dad had his layout when I was 6 years old, and I helped, I'm now 56.

I can understand using latex from the start. But if you find a problem after the glue dries, how do you fix it? Tear up the whole problem area? Seems like a tough way to go. However, if one uses on of the "premanufactured" tracks, Bachmann EZ track, Atlas Accutrack, or the like, that shouldn't much of a problem. The problem of"kinks", and other track laying mistakes, primarily happen with FlexTrack, my preference.

Do as you think best. This hobby is best learned by making mistakes. In which case, I should be a genius. lol

Bob
 
In my experiences it is very easy to pull up track glued with caulk. I have used some of the same sections of track on three layouts. Besides the nails not looking great it seems that they would be hard to pull up without breaking the ties, maybe not. Just to give you the another side of the story...
 
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When I get in the mood for a change, I just build another module. I forgo the mess and headaches of tearing up track. Maybe that's why I have such a large layout. It sure wasn't planned that way, I can assure you of that. It just "morphed".

Bob
 
Bob, I like that word "morphed". That would be a good name for a railroad like mine instead of the GAP. the East Morphed West(run everything) from the 40's to the 2020's.
 
My layout has two elevations, the upper one being blue extruded foam that sits on top of the plywood baseboard. I used 3M Heavy Duty double sided tape to affix my track to the foam layer and it holds solidly. This also allows me to do any future modifications to the layout without ruining the track -- I can pry it off with a butter knife.

I should mention that I'm using pre-ballasted Fleischmann ProfiTrack so there's quite a lot of surface area to affix the tape. Although it should also work on regular track if the tape is attached across several ties. And the tape won't be visible once ballasted over.

Regards,
Clinton

http://thesunnymodelrailroad.blogspot.com
 
I think most people tack the track down then remove the nails when they ballast.
The ballast when adhered with white glue mix will hold everything in place.
By using white glue mix you can remove track later if you have to whereas other adhesives may not allow for it. It's a personal choice.
I usually don't ballast for a few months to a year just to make sure everything is gonna work.
You're right about it being expensive, I just picked up 78' of the real thing for less than the HO equivalent!
 
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