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railkid94

New Member
Hey everybody. My names travis. I want to get into model rail roading. I did have a track, 2 locomotives and a few cars with like 3 powerpacks, but i accidently threw most of the track away. That stuff was sort of old anyways. Well I was looking through my closet and found one of my old locomotives. This brought back the fun memories i had. So im going to really get into it now. I will probably go with HO scale. Ill build the layout eaither in my room, or a empty room in the basement if my dad and stepmom will let me (i'm 13). So I went on internet trains and started to look around.

Heres what i came up with. Now i don't really know to much, so im trying to keep it simple for now.

http://www.internettrains.com/merch...een=PROD&Store_Code=IT&Product_Code=MRC-AA300 -powerpack

http://www.internettrains.com/merch...een=PROD&Store_Code=IT&Product_Code=BAC-11112 -locomotive

http://www.internettrains.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IT&Product_Code=IMT-TPMF -track

http://www.internettrains.com/merch...een=PROD&Store_Code=IT&Product_Code=BAC-44471 -track accesories

http://www.internettrains.com/merch...een=PROD&Store_Code=IT&Product_Code=BAC-44472 -track accesories

Would this be good to get me going?? I will put it on a nice sized piece of ply wood, with about 1 foot legs. (dont want to have to always stand up to work on it, plus it would be easier to just do it with 1 foot legs)

Also, with the Bachmann E-Z track with the gray road bed, could i still put ballast (im pretty sure thats what it is, the gravel type stuff you put right nextto the track and ties)on it?? I have been researching alot the past few days. Thanks!:)

Edit: also i still have about 5 cars (rolling stock i believe) to pull behind the train already. Im not sure if there couplers (i think) could hook up to the new train or not.

Edit again: Ok i just saw a thread about internettrains. Now i WILL NOT be buying from there. But can you all still tell me if the things above are decent to get started with?
 
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I myself am not fond of Ez-track or any track with pre fabricated roadbed but that's just my opinion. That powerpack is a nice one, buy you might want to look into some other options as far as DC sound control. I do not have one of those bachmann but I have heard they are good for the money. If you want some good deals you might want to look here. www.modeltrainstuff.com
Check out the special deals section on thier website. Check out the locos from these manufacturers,Proto 2000,Atlas,Athearn.
 


I have seen DCC, but ill wait a while until i have a layout and i learn alot more.

Ok

Ill still get the same MRC power pack, but diff. track and locomotive.

http://www.ehobbies.com/atl88.html Atlas 100code track. I would get that along with a few other pieces of straight and some turns.

http://www.ehobbies.com/bac11707.html This seems good to get me going, with 8-wheel pick up and 8-wheel drive.

http://www.ehobbies.com/atl842.html - do the wire that come with this connect to the power pack?? I think they do but im not sure.

I Just realized the power packs were diff. Heres the new one. http://www.ehobbies.com/mrcaa370.html
 
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I'm not going to throw to much at you, because it can become overwhelming.

Atlas track is one of the finer tracks out there, and great for beginners. Though Smoke & I would shy away from track with roadbed, it is an awesome way to go, when you lack experience in setting it up. Once you're on to your 3rd, or 4th layout, then you can make that jump. But then again, by no means could you not decide to take the plunge now! If you should decide on using snap track, try out some Atlas, & Micro Engineering flex track. It comes in 3' sections. Micro Engineering even has weathered rail though I'd avoid that unless you plan to weather the rest to match! Also Micro Engineering is stiffer then Atlas, and will hold it shape.

I'd suggest nothing less then all wheel pickup/drive units. Unless we're talking steam. If you're not getting that, then it will give you problems later. I'd also avoid Bachmann, Life-Like & IHC (Unless its a Bachmann Spectrum, Life-Like Proto 1000 or Proto 2000, or some IHC steam), as they're of lower quality and don't always run well.

Couplers, most midrange & up stuff comes with knuckle couplers, where low range stuff comes with X2f, the one with the big wing on the knuckle. It's safe for me to assume that you've got X2f's. But I dunno, if you want to change them I'm sure someone here can tell you how on the specific item you want to change them on.

In the end, if you're unsure, ask about a specific item, someone can tell you about it.

Oh, P.S. when Christmas rolls around, look in Wal*marts remote control section for trains, BUT wait until AFTER Christmas, there's usually one or more left over, and 25-45% off! I'll be updating everyone again this year as I see the ones show up, then when they go on sale. Usually around $40 for $100+ worth of stuff!
 
jbaakko said:
I'm not going to throw to much at you, because it can become overwhelming.

Atlas track is one of the finer tracks out there, and great for beginners. Though Smoke & I would shy away from track with roadbed, it is an awesome way to go, when you lack experience in setting it up. Once you're on to your 3rd, or 4th layout, then you can make that jump. But then again, by no means could you not decide to take the plunge now! If you should decide on using snap track, try out some Atlas, & Micro Engineering flex track. It comes in 3' sections. Micro Engineering even has weathered rail though I'd avoid that unless you plan to weather the rest to match! Also Micro Engineering is stiffer then Atlas, and will hold it shape.

I'd suggest nothing less then all wheel pickup/drive units. Unless we're talking steam. If you're not getting that, then it will give you problems later. I'd also avoid Bachmann, Life-Like & IHC (Unless its a Bachmann Spectrum, Life-Like Proto 1000 or Proto 2000, or some IHC steam), as they're of lower quality and don't always run well.

Couplers, most midrange & up stuff comes with knuckle couplers, where low range stuff comes with X2f, the one with the big wing on the knuckle. It's safe for me to assume that you've got X2f's. But I dunno, if you want to change them I'm sure someone here can tell you how on the specific item you want to change them on.

In the end, if you're unsure, ask about a specific item, someone can tell you about it.

Oh, P.S. when Christmas rolls around, look in Wal*marts remote control section for trains, BUT wait until AFTER Christmas, there's usually one or more left over, and 25-45% off! I'll be updating everyone again this year as I see the ones show up, then when they go on sale. Usually around $40 for $100+ worth of stuff!
Click to expand...
With flex track, how would you join the rails?? Would you use these? http://www.ehobbies.com/atl551.html Also, if I wanted a turnout or a crossing while using flex track, how would I go about doing that? Thanks, everybodys help is MUCH appreciated!:)
 
Flex track is designed to be curved and cut to suit, it's takes some practice but once done correctly makes for a very smooth and reliable layout. If you want to go with flex, let us know and we'll talk you through the flexing and the cutting. Yes you just join the track with those kind of joiners.

Ken.
 
NZRMac said:
Flex track is designed to be curved and cut to suit, it's takes some practice but once done correctly makes for a very smooth and reliable layout. If you want to go with flex, let us know and we'll talk you through the flexing and the cutting. Yes you just join the track with those kind of joiners.

Ken.
Click to expand...

i think i might end up going with flex track. I am pretty confident i can do it. I am pretty good with my hands, so i might just go with flex track.
 
Just make sure you buy the appropriate joiners. Those that were linked are designed to join two different codes of rail. I'd suggest sticking to one code for now.
 


Remote switches are usually powered by the accessory lugs on a power pack, but can be powered other ways too. I'd think it would require a switch such as a toggle switch to work it though. Someone else please post more here, as I'd only played with hand switched switches, I've never even set up my tortoise machines!
 
A capacitor discharge circuit is the best way for those switch machines, it gives a high current burst to switch the turnout then shuts off to prevent the coil from burning out. Two pushbuttons or a toggle sw and a pushbutton.

Ken.
 
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