Full Workbench


River Run

Diesel Detailer
Here's some shots of what I've got going right now. I tend to work on multiple items at one time, it keeps me from getting tired of one project. The SD40-2 is an Athearn of course, and that's the one I'm currently working on. Details West Buffer Plates can be opened up with a file to accept a Kadee #5 coupler box, once installed on the Athearn pilot I cut just a tad off the metal coupler mount on the Athearn frame, drill and tap #50 with 2-56, and the Kadee Box slips right in. After cutting off the ears molded on the frame and filling in the holes on the sidesills, the coupler boxes hold the shell and the frame together quite nice. This is a trick I learned long ago, and even though Details West says you have to body mount the couplers when using their Buffer Plates you can see it works the other way also.

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Roco SD-35 with modifications

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Proto 2000 GP-30 on Kato GP-35 Drive

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This is one of 2 GP-38ACs I am working on (the other is behind it).
I've added Detail Associate air tanks, Details West filters and started work on the fuel tank. Just waiting for more detail parts right now. Oh, before you ask...yes that's an ATLAS shell on an Athearn GP40-2 frame. Both Geep 38s are Athearn powered. (hey, I got a good deal on the shells)

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I'm also working on this Athearn SD-40 that will soon be a High Hood Norfolk & Western unit.

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Looking good. I like these threads, shows me I'm not the only one with too much going on.
 
:D I like them because it makes me want to increase my roster but at the same time reminds me to stay paced. All in due time.
 
That's what happens when you are retired. It keeps me from having philosophical discussions with the cat. lol
 
Randy, that's quite a lineup of work you have ahead of you. Maybe you can teach the cat to work the Dremel tool. :)
 
There's a C-630 and a couple U-30Bs that didn't make the pictures. I've been working on the SD40-2 all day, and I've managed to install another 20 bucks worth of Cannon & Company parts. (it adds up fast!)
 
Well I guess I'm gonna have to post an "assembly floor" shot of my own. That will take some doing. For fun I'll also have to include four GP35s I started on in 1994, to be relatively quick and dirty projects. I got two painted and lettered, but never weathered or really finished them. The other two were stripped Katos and they are still in their project boxes just where I put them 13 years ago. And since then, I built a whole nother GP35 (1c) to much higher standards. In 2006 I set out to upgrade the two finished ones and got pretty far on one of them - Cannon fans and other stuff - but got stuck on what to do with the handrails. Katos too big, alternatives didn't fit. But I may just do like I did on my other finished one, drill out the Kato stanchions and use wire. Those two are both high nose 1a... the finished one is a high nose 1c, and the other two are a low nose w/dynamic (ex P&WV) and low nose non-dynamic (ex Wabash).

Andy
 
Well I guess I'm gonna have to post an "assembly floor" shot of my own. That will take some doing. For fun I'll also have to include four GP35s I started on in 1994, to be relatively quick and dirty projects. I got two painted and lettered, but never weathered or really finished them. The other two were stripped Katos and they are still in their project boxes just where I put them 13 years ago. And since then, I built a whole nother GP35 (1c) to much higher standards. In 2006 I set out to upgrade the two finished ones and got pretty far on one of them - Cannon fans and other stuff - but got stuck on what to do with the handrails. Katos too big, alternatives didn't fit. But I may just do like I did on my other finished one, drill out the Kato stanchions and use wire. Those two are both high nose 1a... the finished one is a high nose 1c, and the other two are a low nose w/dynamic (ex P&WV) and low nose non-dynamic (ex Wabash).

Andy


Andy, did you ever finish the SD40-2 and the RS-11?
 
Andy, did you ever finish the SD40-2 and the RS-11?

Nope... that would warrant a web site update fer shur. The GP40 is finished but doesn't have a direct slot on the models page yet. One of the SD40-2s is a bit farther along - the pilot buffers are on and I put most of the Cannon surface parts in place. The handrails are the holdup there - I haven't decided what to do and I'm not satisfied with any of the options. The RS11 hasn't been touched but it is out of the box and I'm looking at it again - the C420 caused me to drag it out and start looking at photos again. The RS11 is really not missing any critical parts. A few fabrications, and assembling the rest of the quirky Smokey Valley handrails...

Andy
 
Keep pluggin away Andy, and keep us updated! I put a set of A-Line photo etched steps on my Athearn SD40-2 last night, first time I've replaced steps...and man is it worth it! What a difference it makes! I'll post some pics later.
 
Great work!
How do the Athearn frames work with the Atlas shells, is it "drop in", or do you have to modify the frame?
 
Actually I only have to cut a small nib off the Athearn coupling pad so the frame would clear the insides of the pilots. I had to trim some of the plastic bodywork from the Atlas shell underneath the cab to clear some of the casting on the Athearn frame. I just used my nippers and a file. I will have to build up the area above the Athearn coupler mount with some plastic and drill it #50 so I can tap it 2-56 to mount the shell/coupler/frame assembly...no biggie.
 
OK, who makes the coupler pockets? Nevermind, you already answered that one:D

Details West Buffer Plates can be opened up with a file to accept a Kadee #5 coupler box, once installed on the Athearn pilot I cut just a tad off the metal coupler mount on the Athearn frame, drill and tap #50 with 2-56, and the Kadee Box slips right in


Dear lord I think I'll have to get the Guilford orange out again!


That is wonderful work, btw. Do you work the HTCs into the N&W trimount brake cylinder arrangement? Or just leave as is? That's one thing my SD50S project could use, but the idea of cutting off brake shoes and reglueing them scares me a little:D
 
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Looking good! I have always loved high hoods. I'm actually working on one myself.
 
OK, who makes the coupler pockets? Nevermind, you already answered that one:D




Dear lord I think I'll have to get the Guilford orange out again!


That is wonderful work, btw. Do you work the HTCs into the N&W trimount brake cylinder arrangement? Or just leave as is? That's one thing my SD50S project could use, but the idea of cutting off brake shoes and reglueing them scares me a little:D

I'm gonna add the third brake cylinder, and that's as far as I'm going. I've already put enough money into this one. lol

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