Flex track?


MichaelJoe: Flex is great. Makes it so much easier to interconnect between other track segments. You do not have to do a 'shell game' trying to fit: pick you fav [1", 1.5", 2", 2.5" ...etc ] track pieces between segments; either physical track or CAD track plan track. You just need to remember to file/sand the rail ends smooth when you cut it. Some flex can be bent better one direction than the other. If you look at the back, you should be able to see the differences where the tie strip is not connected allowing for expansion. If you happen to have a joint or joints on a curve, get that curve set to where you want it and slide stuff around ( gently ) to get the ties and rail looking good, then put it on the roadbed. Some MRR's solder those locations before putting on roadbed. Oh, and you can get it to bend down to a pretty small radii with a little work; if you really want to do that.

Have fun!
 
as far as radii goes, ive got a spur with flex track that is for sure has a tighter turn than 15". It for sure has its advantages. I like using it in place of (4)-9" straight sections when possible. Ive got some OCD issues so i always install end ties on each section prior to installation (i steal them from older unused sections of track)
 
I find flex is harder to run in a straight line or smooth curve, because it flexes. That's okay, I just use a straight edge for straights and make a template for the curves to align the track to. I have not bought or used a piece of sectional track since 1967.
 
I find flex is harder to run in a straight line or smooth curve, because it flexes. That's okay, I just use a straight edge for straights and make a template for the curves to align the track to. I have not bought or used a piece of sectional track since 1967.
When ya use nails to hold the flex track in place, ya have to be mindfull of not bending the track with each spike, but still, ya end up with minor bends and kinks.
If ya use a flexible caulk to secure your track after ya put the weights on it to keep it in place, you can make the adjustments before the caulk dries.
 
Michael Joe - I am a firm believer in using flex track. Less joints to deal with, less feeder connections and less hassle once you get used to it. I used a series of templates to lay out the curves and either a yardstick or a 4' level for aligning straight sections. It works best if you use the sliding rail on the inside radius of curves, as then you are mainly trimming rail and not ties. I don't try for tight radii, I use 24"-32" on all main and passing sidings. Some industrial sidings and spurs have some 22" sectional track and sectional straight pieces incorporated in them.
 
as far as radii goes, ive got a spur with flex track that is for sure has a tighter turn than 15". It for sure has its advantages. I like using it in place of (4)-9" straight sections when possible. Ive got some OCD issues so i always install end ties on each section prior to installation (i steal them from older unused sections of track)
Can you elaborate a bit on what you mean about installing ties on each section? Doesn't each section already have enough ties? (Total novice here).
 
Can you elaborate a bit on what you mean about installing ties on each section? Doesn't each section already have enough ties? (Total novice here).
I'm pretty sure that he is talking about this end part of the railroad tie.

Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe this is the area.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250204_105515_581~2.jpg
    IMG_20250204_105515_581~2.jpg
    373.5 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:
I'm pretty sure that he is talking about this and part of the railroad tie.

Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe this is the area.
So if I'm understanding this correctly... and I'm probably not...

- first one removes a tie (or two) to make room for the joiners
- then one re-installs the ties... and I'm not sure how that bit works. The videos I've watched seem to say that you need to remove the shoes from the removed track because they won't fit around the joiners, so do you glue the ties back on to help maintain the gauge?

Sorry if I'm being dense, but all the videos make this look so easy. Mind you, they only ever seem to be joining track on a straight line...
 
So if I'm understanding this correctly... and I'm probably not...

- first one removes a tie (or two) to make room for the joiners
- then one re-installs the ties... and I'm not sure how that bit works. The videos I've watched seem to say that you need to remove the shoes from the removed track because they won't fit around the joiners, so do you glue the ties back on to help maintain the gauge?

Sorry if I'm being dense, but all the videos make this look so easy. Mind you, they only ever seem to be joining track on a straight line...
Actually I would not remove the shoes or I guess railroad spikes.
With the track that I have I'm able to just slide the ties on and off the rail.
After you have the track and everything in place where you want it, then just glue from the bottom.
That's what I did.
But like NorthBrit said...... I'm not too fond of the flex track either.
But when you need it it's good to have it.
So far I've only had to use small pieces of it at a time
 
Last edited:
Definitely prefer flex-track. Over the years I've used primarily Micro Engineering HO code 70. It can be a little testy to work with; you'll need a good bit of patience to get the curves just right and it can be a bugger to straighten sections that have been curved, but it looks really nice when you get it down, weathered and ballasted. It's also quite fragile; it doesn't take much to pull the rail out of the simulated spikes and unlike some flex-track, both rails will slip through the simulated spikes and tie plates. At the joints, I carefully remove a tie or two to clear the rail joiners then slip them back under the rails after I get the rest of if the section stuck down. For branch lines, sidings, or a "backwoods" look, I removed every 4th or 5th tie and reposition the remaining ties to get a wider and more random spacing.
 
Definitely prefer flex-track. Over the years I've used primarily Micro Engineering HO code 70. It can be a little testy to work with; you'll need a good bit of patience to get the curves just right and it can be a bugger to straighten sections that have been curved, but it looks really nice when you get it down, weathered and ballasted. It's also quite fragile; it doesn't take much to pull the rail out of the simulated spikes and unlike some flex-track, both rails will slip through the simulated spikes and tie plates. At the joints, I carefully remove a tie or two to clear the rail joiners then slip them back under the rails after I get the rest of if the section stuck down. For branch lines, sidings, or a "backwoods" look, I removed every 4th or 5th tie and reposition the remaining ties to get a wider and more random spacing.

I am using Peco code 55 (N gauge) and the little rail joiners are an absolute pain when my tremor is bad!
 
Most of my railroad is from flex track. When i started with flex track i thought it would be a PITA trying to join pieces, especially on curves. But with a little practice and a few tools of choice, laying down the track goes smooth. My tools for flex are few: mini pliers with teeth to handle the track nails and since much of my benchwork is plywood i use a mini drill with drill bit to start a hole in plywood, otherwise it's difficult to push in the nails (of course i have cork "ballast" under the rails).
Instead of cutting off the ties at the ends, i use a scalpel to cut the rail tie with nails imitation and joiners go in normally. This way i don't have to stick ties under missing spots. For the curves i solder the joiners with two pieces of flex track together before bending it to the desired curve, this elliminates possible kinks where two flex track pieces meet together. One huge plus with flex track for me is, i don't have to sit and design on paper, or computer the exact curves and where they end and begin, which for me would be very frustrating. Anothe huge plus is; just like on a real railroad i can make easments from tangent track into the curve. A lot of home layouts have this unrealistic look where the train is abruptly going into curves from a tangent, because the modeler used templates for layout design and didn't make easments into the curves.
 
Most of my railroad is from flex track. When i started with flex track i thought it would be a PITA trying to join pieces, especially on curves. But with a little practice and a few tools of choice, laying down the track goes smooth. My tools for flex are few: mini pliers with teeth to handle the track nails and since much of my benchwork is plywood i use a mini drill with drill bit to start a hole in plywood, otherwise it's difficult to push in the nails (of course i have cork "ballast" under the rails).
Instead of cutting off the ties at the ends, i use a scalpel to cut the rail tie with nails imitation and joiners go in normally. This way i don't have to stick ties under missing spots. For the curves i solder the joiners with two pieces of flex track together before bending it to the desired curve, this elliminates possible kinks where two flex track pieces meet together. One huge plus with flex track for me is, i don't have to sit and design on paper, or computer the exact curves and where they end and begin, which for me would be very frustrating. Anothe huge plus is; just like on a real railroad i can make easments from tangent track into the curve. A lot of home layouts have this unrealistic look where the train is abruptly going into curves from a tangent, because the modeler used templates for layout design and didn't make easments into the curves.
I love all of this. The most important thing I have learned this week is to solder the pieces together for the curves before laying them, because I'm going to end up soldering them anyway. I need to go and do a lot of practice soldering before I lay the next curve.
 



Back
Top