ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
I was reading a bit on how you guys lay flex in curves. I'm starting to lay track tonight, and while trying to bend the track into the curve I'm getting kinks. I read here that you guys solder first while the track is straight, and then bend into the curve. Do you solder both joints?
I was reading a bit on how you guys lay flex in curves. I'm starting to lay track tonight, and while trying to bend the track into the curve I'm getting kinks. I read here that you guys solder first while the track is straight, and then bend into the curve. Do you solder both joints?
Tried just the outside on one joint. Didn't seem to work, as the inside would kink a little. Soldered both and it worked fine. However, I was having alot of issues with the soldering, was taking a long time and holding the iron to the joint, the solder never seemed to "flow" like I've heard it would. Had to actually touch the solder to the iron to get it to melt. Found my problem. I bought a roll of Rosin core solder at Lowes Hardware, must be plumbers solder because it's kind of thick. I've never soldered anything before and didn't know about the different thicknesses. Watched a video of youtube to see what I was doing wrong, apparently I need a thin solder (didn't know there was a thin or a thick). Something like .022 or .025. So off to Radio Sack I go when the wife gets back.
I use a thin coat of flux spread over the area I'm going to solder. The person at Radio Shack should know what that is. When the rail gets hot enough, the flux helps the solder to spread to the covered area, rather than having to touch the iron to the solder.
I have Atlas code 83 and like it. But when you use joiners and bend the track, the part of the track that has the joiner and the solder joint tends to stay straight rather than bend with the rest of the track. Its less noticeable on broad curves of course. Some folks slide the moveable rail several ties away from the original joint to stagger the two, thus eliminating the flat spot otherwise created by the joiners being directly apart from each other.
Atlas sells code 83 sectional track up to 24 inch radius. Some purists consider using sectional track a modeling phopah, but I find it provides a more consistant radius throughout the curve and through the joined sections. I use flex track for curves broader than 24 inches since, as you found out, it can be a bit fussy to work with when you try to bend it into the tighter radii.
24-28 is my main line curve radius. I only have one 22 radius curve, and that one leg of my wye. The curve I was having the issue with is a 26. I've just started laying track though, so I'll get it right, or it won't get glued down until I do. I bought some .032 rosin core solder tonight. Tired from working all last night, so I'll work on it tomorrow. Thanks for the advice and help guys.
