first track plan

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Dualcore

Member
I bought a copy of WinRail 3 years ago, and have been trying to build a plan ever since. This is my latest, and I thing my best.
What do you guys think?

Thanks.
View attachment 10172
 
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I should have mentioned, that the black track is for freight, and will be finished first. The red track is for passenger service. The small circle is a turntable, and the large circle is a helix.

Sorry for not including this.
 


The plan will be in HO; the helix will be 22in. and will have a total rise of 12in. I only need enough clearance to get to the 2nd level.

In my fantasy history, this will be a short line serving east and central Texas, circa 1935. Locos will include a K4, a shay or climax, an Alco switcher, and a F3, FT, FA, or DL10?, whichever is suitable. Industries will concentrate on paper and coal. Passenger sevice will be limited to 60ft cars.

I would like to have a good sized trestle bridge over a waterfall, somewhere.
 
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Had a late thought: drop a 18in radius inside the 22in helix. Sometimes it takes a while for the obivious to sink into my skull.
 
Are saying you want to have 18" radius curves inside your helix? If so, you might want to rethink that. Even with smaller engines and cars, 18" is a tight radious on the level. As you start to rise, physics takes over and more flanges pressing agains the outside curved rail begins to increase drag. As drag increases, two things happen. Motive power that pulls a train at the bottom of the helix will stall before the train gets to the top of the helix. The other problem is called stringlining, where the train at the top of the second level is now exerting less force on the cars behind it than on the cars still making thier way up the helix. At some point, this differential starts to move some cars faster than others and slack action between the couplers pulls cars off the track. Coming down a helix makes the issues worse, as cars at the top want to push on cars entering the helix.

It looks like, from the size of your track plan, that you have enough run available to get to a second level without using a helix. If you do use a helix, make one with the broadest curves possible.
 
Are saying you want to have 18" radius curves inside your helix? If so, you might want to rethink that. Even with smaller engines and cars, 18" is a tight radious on the level. As you start to rise, physics takes over and more flanges pressing agains the outside curved rail begins to increase drag. As drag increases, two things happen. Motive power that pulls a train at the bottom of the helix will stall before the train gets to the top of the helix. The other problem is called stringlining, where the train at the top of the second level is now exerting less force on the cars behind it than on the cars still making thier way up the helix. At some point, this differential starts to move some cars faster than others and slack action between the couplers pulls cars off the track. Coming down a helix makes the issues worse, as cars at the top want to push on cars entering the helix.

It looks like, from the size of your track plan, that you have enough run available to get to a second level without using a helix. If you do use a helix, make one with the broadest curves possible.

Thanks, Jim. It was just a vagrant thought. It will be much more simple, and in keeping with my theme if I climb a grade to cross a trestle bridge, which is one of the things I want to do.
:)
 
I agree. You need about 4 feet of run for a 2% grade to rise 1 inch. If the upper level is 3 inches above the lower level, you'll need about 12 feet. You could start your grade just where that track curves away from the turntable. That should give you enough run to end your grade about where you show the circle now. You can place the trestle just about in the middle of the grade and have a really nice scene.
 
Tell me why you want to have the passenger tracks (are they black or red?) elevated above the freight tracks? How much elevation are we talking about? How will your passenger engines get to the passenger tracks from the roundhouse in that valley? I may not understand your plan but it already sounds overly complicated to me.
 


First, sorry to hear you're in a wheelchair. That sure makes building things a lot tougher. As fas as the folding utility table, that's what I used as the base for my layout. They are cheap (especially compared to lumber and plywood now) and easy. No muss, no fuss, and they are very strong. Just put a few carriage bolts though the ends to hold them together, add a 2" layer of extruded foam on top, secured with latex caulk, and you're ready to start laying track. I personally like a lower layout height and a bird's eye view but this type of construction would be ideal for you.
 
I think I have finally decided on a couple of structures I want on my layout, and one of those tables would be ideal. Union Station in Dallas faces Houston St., with the passenger tracks behind the station. That whole section of Houston St. would be worth modeling. Older 2 and 3 story buildings with store fronts and apartments above. Very colorful street. There is also the original county courthouse. http://www.texasescapes.com/DallasTexas/Dallas-County-Courthouse-Dallas-Texas.htm
Quite a challenge for a guy that's never built anything on this small a scale.
 
I really liked the idea of track laid on plastic roadbed. As usual, with things that look too good to be true, there is a fly in the ointment. The Bachmamn track is good, solid track. Snaps together and makes a good, tight fit. My trains ran well on it. But there should be warning labels on their #6 turnouts. They use an insanely tight 18" radius angle for the turnout curve, making it useless for passenger operation.
Truly "toy train" track in every sense of the word.
So, I will use every bit of ez track i have, except for the turnouts, and places I need a little flex track.
On a completely different subject, has anyone ever concidered using ws inclines and risers to make a helix?
 
Wow, that's about the most ornate courthouse I've ever seen, including the roofing. I wouldn't even know where to start on a building like that.

I really hate Bachmann E-Z track switches for a number of reasons including the sharp diverging route. You can use Atlas #6 switches with E-Z track. You just have to build up a cork or WS roadbed platform underneath the switch to get it at the right level.

I've never heard of using RS risers being used for a helix. The steepest grade you can buy is 4% and it would take a ton of risers to build a helix. I guess it could be done but I don't think it could be done very economically.
 
It is an idle thought, and would take years of experience to do it right. There is a ready-built structure in the same style, not nearly as massive www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/770-3811 It would make a cheap alternate.
I have a really bad habit of biting off more than I can chew, and not realizing it till I get hip-deep in alligators.

Turnouts: have been giving some thought about using the Fast Tracks system and build my own turnouts.

Forgive me if I seem to ramble. I have been playing with this idea for 4 years, and actually had a Plywood Pacific based on the plan i gave Hathaway Browne. (got bored with that in a day)

Helix: will drop that idea altogether. If I go for a 2nd level, I will make a 3% grade on a long straight. I can only go 10in before it gets too tall to work on, or see.

On top of everything else, I am planning to relocate before the end of this year. So, everything I have drawn up, all the plans I have made, in my mind and on paper: throw all that out and start all over........my head hurts!!
 
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LOL. Sometimes you change plans a bunch of times before you ever come up with one you like and can actually build. As far as the courthouse, I really like the Tombstone courthouse at http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/322-906. It's not like the one in your picture but it has a massive look and the model really comes out nice. It's a very accurate model of the old courthouse in Tombstone, Arizona, if you want to change your locale. :)

I'm not a big fan of the helix. They are a pain to build and obviously aren't very realistic. I'd only do a second level if I had enough space for a run that would carry the tracks up no more than a 3% grade. You can even loop the tracks to get the run you need but it will be a lot easier to build and nicer to look at than a helix.

Just keep reading here and get all the knowlege you can. The delay will probably get you a better layout than if you had all the materials and were ready to go now.
 
Here's my layout two years after deciding to go with EZ track even though I knew better--after all that is what I had.

rip06.jpg
 
The track plan looks interesting. You do know that you've created several reverse loops with that wye and the way the track rejoins the mainline by the top yard, right?
 
I would like to make the center section a city scene. The long mainline will be a good legnth to include the Walthers Union Terminal. I had given up being able to model that. Most of the plans I have drawn wouldn't allow for the legnth, or the way the building is located. The building faces a street with the tracks behind, and I want to include the street. It needs to be on a center island of some sort, for viewing from front and back.
Seperate the two yards at the top, placing both on the main, and put one diverging track between them, eliminating the other.
Going to move the Y to the other end of town, splitting the city. A river is going to run thru it. Freight customers will include a coal bunker, meat processing plant, tannery, chemical plant, coal dealer and intermodal yard.
This idea started out to be such a simple thing. "All I want to do is run some trains"........Famous Last Words.
 
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