file down loco wheels

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S

steez

New Member
Ok....I've looked everywhere for the thread and I can't find it.

There was a member that attached DC leads to metal files and ran his

"pizza cutter" loco wheels on em for a bit and made them work

on code 55 without rubbing the spike heads. Anybody remember that thread?
 
steez said:
Ok....I've looked everywhere for the thread and I can't find it.

There was a member that attached DC leads to metal files and ran his

"pizza cutter" loco wheels on em for a bit and made them work

on code 55 without rubbing the spike heads. Anybody remember that thread?
Click to expand...

I don't remember that thread but I did take an old N-scale Atlas/Rivarossi 2-8-2 and turned the flanges down using a belt sander powered by a variable speed drill, and turned the edges down that way. The drill was ran at a slow speed. Also the motor was removed and the sander "ran" the locomotive, after I removed all possible side rods and valve gear. The motor had been replaced many years ago with a very small can motor.

The owner was quite pleased!:D
 
Hmmm... The electrified fingernail file method sounds easier tho.
I guess thats what he used or at least I envisioned it that way.
I have this WM BL-2 thats just noisey as hell but I really like it.
 


Cjcrescent said:
I don't remember that thread but I did take an old N-scale Atlas/Rivarossi 2-8-2 and turned the flanges down using a belt sander powered by a variable speed drill, and turned the edges down that way. The drill was ran at a slow speed. Also the motor was removed and the sander "ran" the locomotive, after I removed all possible side rods and valve gear. The motor had been replaced many years ago with a very small can motor.

The owner was quite pleased!:D
Click to expand...

You also did a Rivarossi Cab Forward of mine. I still have it, though it hasn't been run in years!:D
 
I did it using some alligator clips hooked up to the engine, running the drive wheels at slow speed. I used a very fine flat file and took off just a little at a time. Some of the older Riv diesel wheels have plastic centers and you have to be careful about overheating. I'd do it the way CJ suggests for a steamer but the file method seemed to work OK for the diesel.
 
Cjcrescent said:
I'm surprised that after getting that cab forward from Jim, (whose sold the house BTW), I wouldn't think you'd want to keep it.:confused:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I knew about the house selling. :( Had to happen though. Actually there are two cab forwards as well as that Max Gray AC-9 he had living here with me now:D The old Rivvy has sentimental value! :;)
 
I just turned down the flanges on a Rivarossi Casey Jones. I just replaced the tender wheels, I removed the pilot and used the cut off wheel in my dremel at high speed, and using the side of the disc, let it spin the wheel via the flange, while using my thumb to provide some resistance on the wheel. Be very carfully not to let them get hot as the centers are plastic and will melt. I do a little on each wheel to keep the heat down as I rotate between wheels. I ran the engine under power using some test leads and did the same method with it, making sure the dremel wheel turned the opposite of the driver rotation. The pilot and tender are RP25 or very close. The drivers I left a bit higher than RP25 to help keep down derailments. I then polished them with fine jewelers file to clean up any burrs and polish the rough edge the turning left. Cheers Mike
 
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