EZ Track Troubleshooting (Bachmannn HO EZ-Track)


paper-tiger

paper-tiger

Member
My apologies for the generic entry. I can't figure out permissions to make a profile picture etc. I'm a real person - my website is http://paper-tiger.org/. (I make zero money on your clicks - I pay for my space and my bandwidth.) My name is Molly, I'm a mom from rural Iowa with a special needs son who seriously LOVES trains, and since he is able to really concentrate and enjoy very few other things, I got him a model train. And then, quite by accident, I got myself addicted to model railroading as well. Long story short, my closest hobby shop is an hour and a half drive, and I have an overlarge loop of Bachmannn EZ-Trak that is freaking NOT EZ. The crazy vintage HO table from Heaven that I got from a non-prof secondhand store (and don't understand) is more successful at running than my modern plug-and-play layout(references in my blog for the interested). I am semi-desperate for some specific help and not even sure exactly what to ask.

This time, I had a whole layout actually 'laid out' before I discovered that my trains wouldn't run. I have a whole stinkin' lot of Bachmann HO scale EZ-track that I connected in to as much of a loop as I could achieve on my track, and it did.... Nothing. And I reduced it down to a full circle (12 pieces) with one rerailer and power pack to test it, and it did nothing. I went connect-to-connect and found a couple of places where one of those connecting sleeve things was missing. I replaced them, but still a complete circle of EZ-Track with one re-railer connected to one power pack would not drive one engine that I /knew/ worked. I tried replacing sections (18/30degree) that seemed not quite right...

It stymies me. I am an absolute beginner with NO experienced local help. I would seriously appreciate a clue. Or, like, a pointed 'you are an idiot' guide. Or someone interested within a reasonable distance(52172). I would help with gas cost for useful help! Or something.
Thank you for reading, in any case.
 
Hey paper-tiger,

Your boy is my kind of boy! I love trains too!

Don't worry, you have come to the right place. The experts on here can solve any problem. I know because I have put them to the test

Be patient I promise you can sort this out.
 
First thing to do is put your engine on the terminal track section (re-railer) with the power connector, turn up the power just past half way and see if you get any signs of power. Set it to full power if you get nothing at half power. If you still have nothing check the connections from the power pack to the track. If that fails you will need a multi-meter, the cheaper the better (under $20) for DC trains.
 
If not a problem with the locomotive or power pack, I think your problem could be dirty track. You may not even be able to see the dirt.

There are lots of ways to clean it but try rubbing alcohol and a cotton cloth.

I had a 4 x 8 layout with several switches and sidings and the one connection point was fine.

To test your locomotive, and/or power pack, you can try this first won't cost you anything:

[video=youtube;whr4IQR7Pg0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whr4IQR7Pg0[/video]

lasm
 
Thank you for the comments and advice, everyone! I will start at the beginning of the idea list and work my way through some troubleshooting, this afternoon.

Also, thank you for the comment on my site, Louis! I am gratified to see someone who isn't a blood relation actually looking at it. hehe
 
Bruette said:
First thing to do is put your engine on the terminal track section (re-railer) with the power connector, turn up the power just past half way and see if you get any signs of power. Set it to full power if you get nothing at half power. If you still have nothing check the connections from the power pack to the track. If that fails you will need a multi-meter, the cheaper the better (under $20) for DC trains.
Click to expand...

Do I need a complete circle of track to do this, or just the terminal piece? Since I can't just touch the wires to the wheels like in the video (It's EZ Track - it's like a plastic piece that plugs in on one side, and what looks like an audio cable jack that plugs in to the controller)? Silly question; total novice.
Thanks!
 
I can't add much to what was already said. Is it safe to say your set is used. if soso do you have a hobby lobby near you you can get some bachmann stuff there. also is your track bed black or gray?
 
Thank you for the help, everybody! We got it working! Apparently, the problem was a combination of sections of overlooked dirty/corroded track (thank you, 5-year-old, for painting the scenery AND the track...) which I replaced with clean bits, and a weirdly touchy connection on the control box. Tried replacing the wire and apparently it's something inside the box itself. Luckily, attention to position of the jack seems to mostly solve the problem.
Here's my little train enthusiast (6 years old), enjoying the finally working track!
IMG_1649.jpg

Our track was new originally, it's two 'sets' stuck together (the Santa Fe Flyer and the Civil War Union), as well as some individually purchased extensions. Mostly black roadbed, except the crossings, which are grey because that's the only color the hobby shop carried. It has survived (sort of) about a year and a half of living in the basement and repeated abuse from a 6 year old, 5 year old, 2 year old and 1 year old, so it's definitely not in mint condition anymore!
 
Congrates getting it running. i would watch the joints between the gray roadbed and the black roadbed. the black roadbed is steel track while the gray is nickle silver. With electricty running you can get crossion it will take a long time but can happen.
 
G'day Paper tiger....Sorry , I missed your original query......I used EZ Track a lot originally...I doubt it's the track itself...Only two things it could be..Controller could be iffy...One of mine died almost immediately..no controller , no go....or it could be simply the locomotive...Do you only have one loco ?...If you had a second one...it'd tell you straight away...If neither worked it has to be the controller..or even the red cable to the track power supply..that could be faulty..I promise it won't be much , and not expensive to fix...GOOD LUCK....Cheers Rod...
 
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