Electric Uncouplers

[Rail Hobo]

I am selecting an electric (electromagnetic) uncoupler for my N scale layout. The Kadee #309 under-the-track uncoupler is intended for HO scale and the Kadee #708 at-track-level uncoupler is intended for N scale. Has anyone ever tried the Kadee 309 on an N scale layout? It looks like the 309 involves much less installation labor, goofs and modification than the 708. I will be using a momentary switch and 12 VDC to engage the uncoupler and will not be using DCC decoders/relays to activate any uncouplers. Thanks for your opinions.

Gene

 

[Rico]

I'm not familiar with either, I cut my trip pins off my HO stuff.
Do both sit under the track or in between the rails?
I would think any magnet under the track should work if that's how they go.
Sorry, not much help I guess...

 

[flh80]

I've been installing Neodymium Magnets just under the track on my HO. I buy them from Hobby Lobby in a pack, you could get by with the small ones about the size of an aspirin. It would be a lot cheaper and simpler, I put two down, one under each rail so it will pull the pin outward to open the coupler. These are the Super Strong, regular magnets were too wimpy. I could post a pic you'd like. here's a link of what they look like and the size I use but never bought from here. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0NVPK2E8476SFSQ1RPMY but they're pretty cheap so I may by some from here.

 

[Rail Hobo]

Thanks, Bill. I will try the permanent super magnet solution first. Looks like the Magcraft magnets are a cheap and reliable solution. Posting your installation photo would be appreciated.

Thanks, Rico. The Kadee 309 sits below the track but involves burying the coil below the layout. Picture at:
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page309.htm

The Kadee 708 is installed between the rails, with the coil below the layout
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page708.htm

 

[RW&C]

Why bother with wiring electromagnets? Figure out where the neo mags need to be, leave that space hollow, then hot-glue the magnets to the end of a lever. Extend the lever through the fascia, put a nice knob on it, and there you go. Push down on the knob, it raises the magnets, it uncouples, no wimpy electromagnets or overheated coils. Just a thought.

I've got one electromagnet uncoupler, looks like it's the under-the-track model. I just put on the outer plates backwards (so they match up to N gauge). It's a bit wimpy but it should do the job.

 

[flh80]

Thanks, Bill. I will try the permanent super magnet solution first. Looks like the Magcraft magnets are a cheap and reliable solution. Posting your installation photo would be appreciated.

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page708.htm

The magnets are set outward, you have to experiment to get the right distance apart

Once they get covered with balast, I plan to stick a marker post next to the spots

I use a 1/2" Forester bit to make a flat hole

 

[Rail Hobo]

Thanks for the great photos, Bill.

 

[Larry]

I use a 1/8th diameter by 1/4" long Neodmium magnets under my tracks. I drill a hole that's just under the diameter of the magnet & then push it in the hole. Works great & when I bought them they were cheap. I bought about 100 twice.
If you want some, PM me & I'll send you a bunch.

 

[TomR]

How do those little uncouplers work??

Do they uncouple when something pulls them down, or when it pulls back and forth?

Can it be a short pulse, or does it need to be a steady magnetic field?

Because I'm thinking of a good cheap solution that will work from inches away with an electromagnet.

...and speaking of uncouplers, is there something available for my old style plastic uncouplers with hang down pins....and will they work OK??? Sooner or later I have to add uncouplers.

Tom

 

[RW&C]

Tom, it's pretty simple. The two magnets (or two poles of one magnet) pull the metal pins sideways in different directions, unhooking the knuckle. Plastic knuckles or metal knuckles should both work fine, it's the pins that matter. They need a continuous electrical field for as long as the knuckles need to stay apart.

Something to consider with a powerful electromagnet is its effect on the rolling stock: steel weights, locos, etc. Most wheels aren't ferrous but cheaper ones may be.

If I remember right the Micro-Trains web site has a good animation of how the whole deal works.

 

[TomR]

Tom, it's pretty simple. The two magnets (or two poles of one magnet) pull the metal pins sideways in different directions, unhooking the knuckle. Plastic knuckles or metal knuckles should both work fine, it's the pins that matter. They need a continuous electrical field for as long as the knuckles need to stay apart.

Something to consider with a powerful electromagnet is its effect on the rolling stock: steel weights, locos, etc. Most wheels aren't ferrous but cheaper ones may be.

If I remember right the Micro-Trains web site has a good animation of how the whole deal works.

Thanks RW&C,

When I have time I'll play with some I have. I looked through my boxes and I have dozens of cars and some engines with those couplers.

Like I need something to do.

Tom

 

[flh80]

...and speaking of uncouplers, is there something available for my old style plastic uncouplers with hang down pins....and will they work OK??? Sooner or later I have to add uncouplers.

Tom

There used to be a uncoupler track section available for the Horn-hook couplers. I would think they're still around, most modelers switch to the Knuckle Couplers because they look more realistic and work better/easier.

For everyone else:
I know a guy who has regular operating sessions with 8-10 people (a lot of switching) and has all Kadee's on everything, only uses long wood "Swizzle Sticks" to uncouple cars and it actually works good! No magnets anywhere, you just slip the pointed end down in between and it opens and pushes the cars apart.

 

[Cjcrescent]

For everyone else:
I know a guy who has regular operating sessions with 8-10 people (a lot of switching) and has all Kadee's on everything, only uses long wood "Swizzle Sticks" to uncouple cars and it actually works good! No magnets anywhere, you just slip the pointed end down in between and it opens and pushes the cars apart.

That is a trick that has been around since there were KD's. I used to make some out of brass tubing and shim brass formed into an arrowhead. There was a company back in the 1970's, (DH Products) IIRC that produced uncoupler sticks that would handle KD's on one side and Horn Hooks on the other.

With the wood sticks, the also work better if you shape a very sharp square edge to them so the slide between the coupler faces easier.