Detail Associates HO coupler lift bars

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hotwinger

HO Switchman
I'm having a little trouble figuering out which coupler bars to get for a GP38-2 GP40-2, and ac4400cw. On some websites they have 3 differant ones. When you add these do you have to bend them or modify them other than painting?
 
Mike, I know of the 2 Details Associates un-coupler bars. They come pre-bent into the 2 different shapes. To mount them, you'll either need the mounting brackets from DA of use the metal lift rings. I prefer the metal lift rings myself. There is no one un-coupler bar meant for a particular engine. Look for prototype photos to make sure you have the correct kind. Here's a close up of one style.

100_2797.jpg
 
Well. You're not going to get a correct one from DA for the AC4400. The closest you'll get are either Overland, or Atlas (I buy the Atlas C40 levers, they're incredibly cheap!). It's Atlas part #760211. Unfortunately their website does not show it right now.

You'll want this one:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/229-2211

The straight bar, w/o the loop pretty much never made it past the 35 line, and was replaced on most units that did come with it fairly soon after. I cannot remember the exact dates however.
 


To anyone who catches this. This might sound like a stupid question. If I'm adding detail parts do I paint them before or after adding them? AndI don't have a airbrush, so if I brush paint the parts will they look just as good?
Thanks in advance!
 
Mike, I don't think you'll get as good a look brush painting them as airbrush painting. But that's just my humble opinion. If you have to brush paint them, I'd do it before installing them, then let them dry completely before installing. Use either masking tape folded over to hold them or if you have some locking tweezers.
 
Ok thanks Jerome. This will be my first time using detailed parts. Hopefully I can make the painting turn out ok using a brush. I can't really afford a airbrush right now. Are the details west parts plastic or metal. Can I bend the MU hoses?
 
Mike,

Most Details West parts are white metal. You can bend the MU hoses, but don't do it too many time. The white metal hoses are very soft, and once they break, they are pretty much useless. What engines are you planning on building??
 
Thanks wheeler1963. I'm not building a whole engine. I'm just taking a couple Athearn RTR and adding more detail. I can't stand them having no MU cables or the right snow plow. Makes me feel like thier still naked haha. I havent baught any of the other more detailed parts like the air brake hose or fuel tank parts because i'm not too sure where they go. Just taking one step at a time. I baught testor's liqued cement. Would this work to apply the pieces even though thier metal?
 
Mike, the best thing to do is get a set of small drills and a pin vise, if you haven't already done so. For every detail part, like MU cables, drill holes that are very slightly larger than the diameter of the part. You should then be able to use tweezers or a fine needle nose pliers to hold the part, apply just a drop of super glue to the end, and push it in the hole. That's all there is to it. You don't want to use plastic cement if you're installing cast metal or brass parts on a plastic model. The only way it will hold the part is to apply enough plastic cement to make the area around the hole so it dissolves and grips the detail part. While that might work, it really doesn't make the model look too good. :)

As far as where things go, your best guide is prototype photographs. There are tons on the net so using Google will usually find you a few pictures of almost every locomotive. Some things, like brake lines, are pretty standard on all locomotives. Things like the number and type of MU cables, drop steps, handrails, grab irons and lighting are all much more unique to the railroad and even the era, hence the need to hunt down prototype photos.
 


Mike, I know of the 2 Details Associates un-coupler bars. They come pre-bent into the 2 different shapes. To mount them, you'll either need the mounting brackets from DA of use the metal lift rings. I prefer the metal lift rings myself. There is no one un-coupler bar meant for a particular engine. Look for prototype photos to make sure you have the correct kind. Here's a close up of one style.

100_2797.jpg

Jerome,

Where can you find these "metal lift rings?" I did a quick search and couldnt find any.

Im getting ready to detail a NS SD70...

thanks,
brad
 
Plano makes an etched set of lift rings.

#14650 HO scale Liftrings - 4 O.O. X 2 1/2 I.D - 48 per. pkg.
#14651 HO scale Liftrings - 3 3/8 O.O. X 1 3/4 I.D - 48 per. pkg.
#14652 HO scale Liftrings - 2 3/4 O.O. X 1 1/2 I.D - 48 per. pkg.
#14653 HO scale Liftrings - 2 3/8 O.O. X 1 3/8 I.D - 48 per. pkg.


Detail Associates also makes some.

229-2222 HO Eye Bolt 3 1/2' dia long
 
Has anybody used the Cal Scale coupler lift bars? I'm just wondering how they compare to the Detail Associates lift bars as the price is a lot cheaper and they appear to be made from metal/wire as well.
 
Brian, can't say I've ever seen theirs. I'll have to go look them up.

Edit: can't seem to find a picture of them, so hard to tell what style they are.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Brian, can't say I've ever seen theirs. I'll have to go look them up.

Edit: can't seem to find a picture of them, so hard to tell what style they are.
They're a division of Bowser I think. Here's a link for the page they are on: HO Cal Scale Diesel Details. The one I'm looking at is about halfway down part #190-522. They make the eye bolt lift rings as well. I may order some through the LHS and see how they compare to DA's. I was just wondering if anybody had experience with them.
 






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