I just purchased an NCE Power Cab but have no DCC locomotives. I have been searching decoders but am a little confused. For what I see, there is 4 function with 16 lighting effects for 20 to 30 bucks and there is ones with sound that jump to 60-70 bucks and what looks to be sound only decoders around 40. I have 2 steam locos that I would like to do sound but the rest can be no sound. My question is: what are the 4 functions and what decoder does everyone use? Am I right on the price jumper to sound and does the speaker go in the tender on steam? Thanks, Brian
Decoder questions
- Thread starter bwells
- Start date
cdouglas
Member
For non sound I use nce d13srj which are $15 each. They have connection for motor, front and rear lights and 2 other lights (ditch, beacon, etc). If it's too big for loco, I have used digitrax n or z scale. I don't have any sound decoders, tried on and it blew out 30 seconds after install twice. I just use vsd through jrmi now
Just received my NCE power Cab and purchased a decoder from the LHS and now need to do reading. Any help on a decoder with sound or do you guys use a sound only decoder as well as the motor drive one? The sound stuff bumps the price up real quick but I do have a 4-8-4 that needs it! Thanks, Brian
Are you asking "which sound decoder to use?" or " how to install a sound decoder?"
On the former, I use SoundTraxx sound decoders. Pricey yes but they work well and sound good. See their web site for installation and programming.
Waltr, which sound decoder to use is what I meant. I see there are ones for 50 bucks and then they jump to 90-150. Just wondering why but I assume it is the sound quality? Are all these decoders compatible with different systems? I think it is odd that NCE does not offer a sound decoder.
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Go to Soundtraxx.com. Look around there at the steam sound decoders. Soundtraxx has arguably the best decoders out there right now. They are some of the most expensive out there, but like alot of things in life, you get what you pay for. There is an installation guide available on the website as well. Read thru that. Sound installation is more difficult than a motor decoder install. The hardest part is usually finding ample space to mount the speaker(s). Usually not that big of an issue in a steam loco as you have a fair amount of space in the tender.
Ease into DCC. Try installing the NCE D13SRJ in your one loco. Make sure and read your NCE PowerCab's manual (its pretty intuitive). Take your time. If you dont feel comfortable with trying a sound install, get a reputable hobby shop or online DCC dealer to do it. If you go the latter route, I recommend Ulrichmodels.com or ligartechnologies.com.
Its alot of fun. Enjoy,
Brad
You might also want to look into TCS decoders. They have a great selection and an awesome warranty. This is a direct quote from their website:
We will repair/replace the decoder even if you accidentally damage it.
If you fry it during installation, they will replace it. Although they are quite easy to install, that gave me a nice, warm feeling when I was doing my first one
For sound, yes, Soundtraxx Tsunami or the new QSI Titans which are now starting to arrive.
Dave
We will repair/replace the decoder even if you accidentally damage it.
If you fry it during installation, they will replace it. Although they are quite easy to install, that gave me a nice, warm feeling when I was doing my first one
For sound, yes, Soundtraxx Tsunami or the new QSI Titans which are now starting to arrive.
Dave
SoundTrax also has a 'if you break it we'll fix it' policy but it's limited to 30 or 60 days.
I've never used any sound decoders except Soundtrax so I don't know what the others sound like. I have read on the web that there is a difference in the sound quality between SoundTrax and all other decoders.
DigiTrax also makes sound decoders that have the option for you to load in different sounds.
I've never used any sound decoders except Soundtrax so I don't know what the others sound like. I have read on the web that there is a difference in the sound quality between SoundTrax and all other decoders.
DigiTrax also makes sound decoders that have the option for you to load in different sounds.
I have all of three types of sound decoders discussed here: QSI, Soundtraxx, and Digitrax. Of the 3, I prefer Soundtraxx the most.
Each has benefits: QSI and Soundtraxx can be modified and programmed if you have their programmer. The sounds of stock QSI's to me sound a bit primative on some of the Atlas' Gold models, although I own only one. I have a QSI Universal in a P42, however, that I think is outstanding. I cant vouch for the new QSI Titan's but some folks on the Atlas Message Boards are disappointed it seems. But that group it seems to me is very hard to please.
The only have two Digitrax sound decoders with 1 being their low-cost offering the SDH164 decoder and a D165AO with a Soundbug that a friend uploaded for me. Again, the ability to upload custom sounds are a plus.
The Soundtraxx to me, though is currently the best. The sounds are clear, and to me, accurate. You cant modify them, and Ive never ever felt the need to wish I could. The amount of tinkering that can be done with the CVs is enough to keep you busy til Rapture. I do wish that you could certain prime movers and horns in different formats aka the SD70M2/ACe in the Atlas Format instead of the TSU format. I also wish some of their decoders came with more than 4 lighting functions.
Brad
Each has benefits: QSI and Soundtraxx can be modified and programmed if you have their programmer. The sounds of stock QSI's to me sound a bit primative on some of the Atlas' Gold models, although I own only one. I have a QSI Universal in a P42, however, that I think is outstanding. I cant vouch for the new QSI Titan's but some folks on the Atlas Message Boards are disappointed it seems. But that group it seems to me is very hard to please.
The only have two Digitrax sound decoders with 1 being their low-cost offering the SDH164 decoder and a D165AO with a Soundbug that a friend uploaded for me. Again, the ability to upload custom sounds are a plus.
The Soundtraxx to me, though is currently the best. The sounds are clear, and to me, accurate. You cant modify them, and Ive never ever felt the need to wish I could. The amount of tinkering that can be done with the CVs is enough to keep you busy til Rapture. I do wish that you could certain prime movers and horns in different formats aka the SD70M2/ACe in the Atlas Format instead of the TSU format. I also wish some of their decoders came with more than 4 lighting functions.
Brad
Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it. The Digitrax look to be 50 bucks verses the Soundtrax at 100. I think I may start with the Digitrax after I do a few no sound ones like bigb suggested the NCE d13sr. Once again thanks for the info. Do you have to isolate the motor from the frame or just the brushes, that part scares me?
Just the brushes need to be isolated from the frame. The motor frame or can is normally isolated from the brushes on newer motors. The older HO stuff had one brush connected to the motor's frame. Hence the reason for everyone stating the motor needs to be isolated.
The idea here is that the frame is connected to one of the track rails which then connects to the power in wires of the decoder (red or Black) and nothing else.
The motor brushes connect to the motor output wires of the decoder (grey and orange) and nothing else.
Use an Ohmmeter or continuity tester to ensure these four points are not connected in any way.
The idea here is that the frame is connected to one of the track rails which then connects to the power in wires of the decoder (red or Black) and nothing else.
The motor brushes connect to the motor output wires of the decoder (grey and orange) and nothing else.
Use an Ohmmeter or continuity tester to ensure these four points are not connected in any way.
TrinityJayOne
N gauge fan
The wide head on the PowerCab is pretty convenient for the purposes of a simple gravity-powered holder. Might have to knock one up myself...
Sounds like you've hit the ground running with DCC, bravo. Hopefully you've read through the manual by now, possibly multiple times if you're like me. If not, make it a priority!
I will add a tip because it doesn't look like it's come up yet- get to know the programming track feature. Any time a loco comes back from your workbench you NEED to put it on the programming track, even if you're 100% positive that everything is wired correctly. Even if all you did was loosen a screw and then tighten it, PROGRAMMING TRACK! It will save you money & heartache in the future if you get this into your head as early as possible.
Sounds like you've hit the ground running with DCC, bravo.
Hopefully you've read through the manual by now, possibly multiple times if you're like me. If not, make it a priority!I will add a tip because it doesn't look like it's come up yet- get to know the programming track feature. Any time a loco comes back from your workbench you NEED to put it on the programming track, even if you're 100% positive that everything is wired correctly. Even if all you did was loosen a screw and then tighten it, PROGRAMMING TRACK!
It will save you money & heartache in the future if you get this into your head as early as possible. 