Custom painting Q's

[Empire Builder]

1.Hi I'm painting a Bachman GP35 locomotive with polly scale paint & I was wondering if I needed to use primer at all?

2.with custom made decals ( printed out on my computer's inkjet printer), should I use Micro Set/ Micro sol, or is there somthing special you use on ink jet decals?

3.Does standard masking tape work for covering up areas that you don't want painted?

4. Using Polly Scale paint, how long should you let a locomotive sit before it totally cures?, Polly Scale says 24 hours, but my dad says it takes several days. Which one is correct?

 

[RCH]

1. I would use primer if you're painting a multi-color paint job or if you're painting light colors like yellow, red, orange or white. Other darker colors tend to take care of themselves over different color backgrounds.

2. I think it depends on the decal paper used. Consult the manufacturer's website for instructions.

3. I only use Scotch Magic Tape. I wouldn't recommend using masking tape since it is much thicker. I know some other modelers who use Bare Metal foil to do their masking and they report that it's quite effective, though that's not its intended use.

4. Paint curing time depends several things, but humidity seems to be the major factor. Higher humidity means slower cure time. Polly Scale's recommended time might be fine for the location where they develop and test the paint but may perform differently at your location. Waiting a few extra days won't hurt, so you might want to take your dad's advice.

 

[Empire Builder]

THANKS!!!

on the color thing, is Glacier Green considered light in what you are talking about? I asked the primer question because according to Polly Scale, primer isn't needed. Oh, & if this helps, the locomotive that I'm painting is undecoreted in a kina whitish color. here are some pics (I also included one of the other locomotive that I'll be painting up) :









Again, thanks for the advice, I greatly apreciate it.

 

[RCH]

I'd consider it a light color. If you add any brass or white metal or different color gray plastic details to that model, you might think about priming it first. Nothing heavy, just enough to even the base color of everything.

I must admit I don't know anything about Polly Scale paints, but color is color, you know?

 

[chrismoore93]

LOL, I have a Bachmann GP35 that needs painting as well! Don't forget to show us the pics as it is in the painting process, and finished.
Chris

 

[Empire Builder]

LOL, I have a Bachmann GP35 that needs painting as well! Don't forget to show us the pics as it is in the painting process, and finished.
Chris

Cool! what are you painting yours up as?

 

[phatpony]

I painted an Atlas dash 8-40B with Polly scale without primer. I used Conrail blue though, and I sprayed 3 light coats. The shell was grey and the rails were black, and the grabs were blackened metal. It came out just fine. I found that Polly scale dries pretty quick, so I was able to lay on the next coat within 45 mins. I was able to handle it after that period of time without leaving finger prints or smudging anything. I did however, leave it in the spray booth with the fan running while it dried.

Glenn

 

[Empire Builder]

What do you guys use for clear-coating locomotives?- what brand & do you use flat or gloss?

 

[RCH]

If you are going to weather your models, then the weathering medium you use should determine your clear coat. For example: say you weather your models with artists oils, then you should use an acrylic clear coat, such as Future Floor Polish to seal your models that way the solvents in the oils do no attack the clear coat and the paint underneath. Or if you weather with acrylics, try using a solvent-based lacquer, such as Testors Dullcote, Semi-Gloss or Glosscote.

As to the question of dull vs. gloss, I prefer using clear coats with a gloss component to better replicate the appearance of metal. Flat finishes are fine for extremely old heavily weathered models, but ruin the appearance of a locomotive or freight car that's supposed to appear "new."

As with any application of paint, a few light coats are better than one heavy one. And always start off with less than you think you'll need to do the job. It's easier to come back an hour or two later to find that you need to spray some more clear on your model than it is to strip the model bare and start over.

 

[Empire Builder]

If you are going to weather your models, then the weathering medium you use should determine your clear coat. For example: say you weather your models with artists oils, then you should use an acrylic clear coat, such as Future Floor Polish to seal your models that way the solvents in the oils do no attack the clear coat and the paint underneath. Or if you weather with acrylics, try using a solvent-based lacquer, such as Testors Dullcote, Semi-Gloss or Glosscote.

What if you don't plan to weather it right away, what would be a good clear coat then?

 

[RCH]

Flip a coin, Eric! It doesn't matter if you aren't going to weather it. And it's not a deal killer either if you use solvent based clear coat and weather later with enamels or something. It's just ideal to use differing types of paint for painting and weathering.