Converting old trains to DCC


R

rfxcasey

Member
I have several 20 some year old Tyco trains I would like to try converting to DCC. I read somewhere that some decoders can't handle some older motors so I was wondering what type of decoder or other pitfalls I should be looking out for.

I would also like to know if anyone has converted a train to use an LED headlight instead of the incandescent they normally come with? If so how did you do it?
 
Convert Tyco? Not to sound mean, but I wouldn't waste my money. The decoders are worth more than the trains. I tried this once with a loco a friend wanted to run. The pancake motor in the loco fried after a few minutes. Some of these old Tycos are only driven by one truck, and are light, so they won't pull much either. Run quality is generally poor. Tycos were made for the chian store train set market, and that's really all they're good for.

Please yourself, but be prepared for disappointment.
 
any engine can be converted, question is only with how much effort. todays decoders will pull serious amps (well for a model. 1.3A) but ditto on little sense converting tyco toy engines. DCC doesn't fix poor running problems, it really asks for nice all wheel drive and all wheel pickup

as for your led question yes it can be done and IMO should be done. you will need to consult the manual for your decoder (or one you thinking about getting ) for difference of LED vs Inc bulbs. here is digi for example:
http://www.digitrax.com/prd_mobdec_dh163d.php
 
Ok, thanks for the info. I have a Model Power engine as well. It's all metal and the overall quality seems better then the Tyco's by a lot. Would it be something worth converting?
 
rfxcasey said:
Ok, thanks for the info. I have a Model Power engine as well. It's all metal and the overall quality seems better then the Tyco's by a lot. Would it be something worth converting?
Click to expand...

Hi rfxcasey and welcome to the forum. Your question of "Would it be something worth converting?" does have an answer.
If the loco you are considering is available from a quality loco manufacturer then I'd say no.
If the loco in question is not readily available and you want that specific loco on your layout then the answer is yes, but it will take some work on your part.
The Tyco locos have acceptable detail such as the Alco models, and the body shells can be mounted on Athearn chassis (the Blue Box types with the brass flywheels). To make a smooth running loco from the blue box chassis will take some work on your part.
Below is a photo of one of my kit bashes a combination of two tyco bodies and an Athearn U33C chassis. Shortly to have a decoder installed.
JohnGalt_IMG.jpg
and one made from a single Tyco C430 and a Athearn U33C
ConanDoyle_IMG.jpg

Cheers
Willis
 
CBCNSfan,

Wow, I love the detail of your rocks in those pics. Any tips on achieving that look? Thanks for the info on the Tycos. I just have quiet a few of them laying around an thought they could be used for something. They are from some 25 years ago but I guess they still aren't worth anything.

The Model Power I have, when looking at the underside that faces the track I can see 2 large brass cylinders in between the gaps between the trucks and the middle of the body. The train is driven by both trucks (which does not hold true for the Tycos). It is all metal, very heavy and brand new (my Mom gave it to me). I saw a Bachmann decoder on sale for 20 bucks and figured it would be cheaper then buying another DCC loco.

As it stands now, I have 2 Bachmann DCC locos that came with some track, rolling stock and the EZ commander controller for $107 buck from Hobby Lobby after I used a 40% off coupon. I think it was a pretty good deal and somewhat painless way to get into DCC.

The problem as it is, is, now I have like 4 DC powersupplies and lots of DC Tycos that are somewhat useless, unless I set up another circuit that is only DC but finding room on my in progress layout for it will be a challenge.
 
rfxcasey said:
CBCNSfan,

Wow, I love the detail of your rocks in those pics. Any tips on achieving that look?
Click to expand...

:D A little off topic but the link below should get the information. I used the book for a start then did my own thing. When I used up the pigments from the kit I used watered down acrylic paints (the craft type cheapies) and they work just as good just takes some experimentation
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/c1207
Click on the "How-To Videos" drop down menu they'll give you an idea of how it's done.
Thanks for the info on the Tycos. I just have quiet a few of them laying around an thought they could be used for something. They are from some 25 years ago but I guess they still aren't worth anything.
Click to expand...
They'll sell on eBay
The Model Power I have, when looking at the underside that faces the track I can see 2 large brass cylinders in between the gaps between the trucks and the middle of the body. The train is driven by both trucks
Click to expand...
Yes I have one like that down stairs, a Shark Nose in CN livery darned heavy smooth runner not like the general run of Model Power Locos.
It is all metal, very heavy and brand new (my Mom gave it to me). I saw a Bachmann decoder on sale for 20 bucks and figured it would be cheaper then buying another DCC loco.
Click to expand...
You'll have to check the running and the stalled motor current to see that it doesn't exceed the rating of the decoder otherwise you'll let the magic smoke out of the decoder.
The problem as it is, is, now I have like 4 DC powersupplies and lots of DC Tycos that are somewhat useless, unless I set up another circuit that is only DC but finding room on my in progress layout for it will be a challenge.
Click to expand...
I believe it's best to make a decision to go one way or the other. I have no idea of how many locos I have down stairs, but I've decided on DCC, so far I have a NCE Power Cab and 3 decoders and I'll soon be purchasing a Smart booster 5 amp model before even rebuilding the layout.

Cheers
Willis
 
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