Converting Bachmann Thomas Couplings to ...Other Couplings..?


TooMuchToby

TooMuchToby

New Member
Hello, fellow model railroaders!

I'm not very good when it comes to couplings but I believe the Bachmann Thomas (HO scale) couplings are called NEM couplings...?..or hook-and-loop couplers; I'm not so sure, but here are the links of what they look like:

https://www.amazon.com/Bachmann-Trains-Thomas-Friends-Clarabel/dp/B0006KSMPO
https://www.walthers.com/thomas-fri...hook-loop-couplers-f-thomas-equipment-3-pairs

Anyways, I want to convert these couplers to something like this (image below), but does anyone happen to know how?
1707929413060.png
 
TooMuchToby said:
Hello, fellow model railroaders!

I'm not very good when it comes to couplings but I believe the Bachmann Thomas (HO scale) couplings are called NEM couplings...?..or hook-and-loop couplers; I'm not so sure, but here are the links of what they look like:

https://www.amazon.com/Bachmann-Trains-Thomas-Friends-Clarabel/dp/B0006KSMPO
https://www.walthers.com/thomas-fri...hook-loop-couplers-f-thomas-equipment-3-pairs

Anyways, I want to convert these couplers to something like this (image below), but does anyone happen to know how?
View attachment 181294
Click to expand...
OK, You don't say what the cars you have are, North American or European, I'm guessing European. The couplings you're talking about are called Tension Lock couplings, or Hook-and-Loop couplings, to swap out remove the old coupling by either removing the screws or if fitted with a rivet you'll have to drill it out (a foto of the underside would help.) If it's a European car you may have to modify the buffer beam to get the correct height

You can use a Kadee gearbox for the horn hook coupling fit it by using a screw and or CA glue (I use both) you may have to shim the gearbox to get the right height if it's a US-style car.
 
Definitely change out the couplers. What you have are the old hook-horn or X2F couplers. While they will work with others of the same type, they are a pain, and won't mate with Kaydee knuckle couplers. (There are similar couplers that some manufacturers use with their rolling stock, which will work with Kaydee couplers, but the Kaydees are the best.) Either Kaydee #5 or #148 are the ones to use. Are the couplers on that car attached directly to the trucks, or fixed on the car body? If the former, it is probably best to cut the coupler pockets off the trucks and install the Kaydee pockets on the body of the car. (The exception to this might be on long cars, especially 85 scale ft. passenger cars. But that also depends on how your curves are. Let us know how we can help.
 
Smudge617 said:
OK, You don't say what the cars you have are, North American or European, I'm guessing European. The couplings you're talking about are called Tension Lock couplings, or Hook-and-Loop couplings, to swap out remove the old coupling by either removing the screws or if fitted with a rivet you'll have to drill it out (a foto of the underside would help.) If it's a European car you may have to modify the buffer beam to get the correct height

You can use a Kadee gearbox for the horn hook coupling fit it by using a screw and or CA glue (I use both) you may have to shim the gearbox to get the right height if it's a US-style car.
Click to expand...
I believe the cars are North American. They also have screws I can remove.
 
Most likely the #5 or #148. The #5 has a metal insert that goes in the plastic gearbox, while the #148 does not, but has metal whiskers instead. The #148 may be a bit easier, but not much. I do see Kadee offers bulk packages of both in case you have a bunch of cars to convert.
 
Get the #148 easier to install, just place the #148 into the gearbox, place the cover and screw into place. You can get bulk packs or packs of 4.
 
NVSrr1500 said:
From the way I read that, you want to change the hook loops to what is on the rock island car you have pictured.
Click to expand...
That's how I read the original post as well. The coupler on the Rock Island car is called horn-hook, sometimes referred to as an X2F. If it is an American car, the horn-hooks should be a drop in fit. A picture of the underside of the engine and the coupler would help.
 
On doing some more research on Thomas and Friends I find I was wrong, Kadee's #5 or #148 will not work.

Bachmann "Thomas and Friends" locomotives are fixed Hook-and-Loop on both HO and OO scales so you can't do a drop-in to any other coupling you have to remove the entire hook-and-loop and replace it, as it's modelled on European rolling stock it has a buffer beam which the Hook and Loop sits behind so you have to either shim the gearbox (doesn't matter who's) or modify the buffer beam so it sits flush with the beam, also a Kadee #5 or #148 Kadee won't work as the shank is too short and you'll get buffer lock on curves (and guess how I know that little nugget.)

If the OP wants to fit another coupler Kadee is the better alternative as horn hook couplers seem to be all one size, (I'm probably wrong, sure someone will say differently) Kadees have longer shanks which the OP will need to avoid buffer lock on curves so either the Kadee #158 (medium shank) or #156 (long shank) would be needed.
 
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Smudge617 said:
On doing some more research on Thomas and Friends I find I was wrong, Kadee's #5 or #148 will not work.

Bachmann "Thomas and Friends" locomotives are fixed Hook-and-Loop on both HO and OO scales so you can't do a drop-in to any other coupling you have to remove the entire hook-and-loop and replace it, as it's modelled on European rolling stock it has a buffer beam which the Hook and Loop sits behind so you have to either shim the gearbox (doesn't matter who's) or modify the buffer beam so it sits flush with the beam, also a Kadee #5 or #148 Kadee won't work as the shank is too short and you'll get buffer lock on curves (and guess how I know that little nugget.)

If the OP wants to fit another coupler Kadee is the better alternative as horn hook couplers seem to be all one size, (I'm probably wrong, sure someone will say differently) Kadees have longer shanks which the OP will need to avoid buffer lock on curves so either the Kadee #158 (medium shank) or #156 (long shank) would be needed.
Click to expand...
I can catch a picture for you guys later today if needed.
 
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