Completely uninformed newbie asking for help


V

VanderSalad

New Member
Hi there fellas. I have absolutely zero experience with model trains in pretty much any capacity, but my wife happened upon the Bachmann Merry Christmas Express N Scale train set at an Amazon Return store and picked up the used set for 8 bucks. The set looks fine from what my uninformed eye can tell, aside from one major thing. The tinderbox (I believe that's the correct name) metal circle connector is broken and I unfortunately made it worse. The engine and tinderbox were not connected and the circle connector of the tinderbox was cracked so it appeared as a "c" shape. I did not realize it was cracked as I assumed that was the normal shape of the connector and upon attempting to finagle it onto the connecting point of the Engine i ended up cold working the metal connector and snapping part of it off. I don't really the money or motivation to buy a replacement engine/tinderbox, I was wondering if it would be possible to solder it back together. Does anyone have any advice for a scenario like this? Sorry for my long winded post, I truly have zero experience in this area, please forgive me for my ignorance 😊
 

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VanderSalad said:
I was wondering if it would be possible to solder it back together. Does anyone have any advice for a scenario like this?
Click to expand...
This looks like a split frame electrical scenario. The connector has two power feeds going through it; therefore, I don't think you can solder it back on. Solder could flow between the to sides and cause a short circuit. Could you find a plastic washer the same size and glue it over the bottom of what is left? I don't know how the power is getting from that bar to the locomotive. A washer would have to not interfere with that.

It almost looks like the prior owner tried to modify it with those two brass wires shooting out like that.

Bachmann does have a lifetime warranty when the set is purchased new. I don't know about Amazon returns.
 
Ok, I found this online. Notice the conductive surface is not continuous around the whole loop. Keeps left and right electrically separate.
Also notice the two wires are "UP" toward the locomotive (away from the camera). Looks like yours is upside down somehow.
So if you could reverse it so wires are up, and then glue a thin washer on "this side" (toward the camera) it could work, but also notice to oval hole that allows the whole thing to be turned 90 degrees to hook on and off the loco.

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VanderSalad said:
Hi there fellas. I have absolutely zero experience with model trains in pretty much any capacity, but my wife happened upon the Bachmann Merry Christmas Express N Scale train set at an Amazon Return store and picked up the used set for 8 bucks. The set looks fine from what my uninformed eye can tell, aside from one major thing. The tinderbox (I believe that's the correct name) metal circle connector is broken and I unfortunately made it worse. The engine and tinderbox were not connected and the circle connector of the tinderbox was cracked so it appeared as a "c" shape. I did not realize it was cracked as I assumed that was the normal shape of the connector and upon attempting to finagle it onto the connecting point of the Engine i ended up cold working the metal connector and snapping part of it off. I don't really the money or motivation to buy a replacement engine/tinderbox, I was wondering if it would be possible to solder it back together. Does anyone have any advice for a scenario like this? Sorry for my long winded post, I truly have zero experience in this area, please forgive me for my ignorance 😊
Click to expand...
I see you only paid 8 bucks for this Not to sure about fixing it you might be able to or just get a new drawbar

Search Results -> N50512-1 : Bachmann Trains Online Store!

estore.bachmanntrains.com
 
When you say "tinderbox" I believe you mean "tender", the car behind a steam loco which 'tends' to the engine by carrying its coal, oil, or wood that it burns in its firebox, plus carries water for its boiler..IE. the 'tender', not tinderbox... Some also call it the "coal car"..

If you don't get this locomotive running you can always purchase another N scale loco on say, eBay... I believe your controller is analog DC and not digital DCC..Thus, unless you also purchase a DCC controller such as an NCE PowerCab, you need to beware that any locos you buy must state "DC" and not "DCC"...Be extra vigilant when reading the ads for locos... Right now you are DC so must look for that in ad if, IF you do look for a new locomotive..
Finally:
Looks like your equipment has the earlier type boxy Rapido couplers..Newer equipment come with realistic 'knuckle couplers'..So, unless you were to convert equipment to knuckle couplers be sure cars or loco you might buy have same couplers so as to be compatible with your existing ones...

We all have experienced similar problems to what you are presently incurring...So, don't feel alone..It's merely the old learning-curve thing...
Keep at it, problems will cease, and you'll grow into becoming a true model railroader if you so choose to... 🏨🏭🛤️☀️🌵
 
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Looks like you got yourself a good deal with this Loco, as MikeGTW posted, getting a new drawbar for this is quite cheap and is an easy fix, just take your time doing it.

I see the couplings are not yet fitted, so if you want to fit Kadee couplings now you can, most modern freight cars are fitted with Kadee style couplings and I would suggest Kadee whisker couplings #148. But if you intend to expand, as PowrCab has already posted, check the type of couplings etc. before you buy, unless you are (like most of us,) prepared to swap them out.

As PowrCab has also mentioned, your presently running a DC system, so older locomotives, unless already modernised to DCC, will be DC, but again, check the small print. Any Locomotive that say's it's DCC Ready that simply means that it has a socket already fitted somewhere in the body for a DCC Decoder, but it is still a DC locomotive.

I hope this helps, happy Railroading. :)
 
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Smudge, it's PowrCab, not PowerCab....I wanted to imply I was in NCE control, but at same time not wanting to steal the full word....
 
Sorry for late responses, wanted to say that I am incredibly grateful for EVERYONE'S responses here, you have all been incredibly helpful. I'm going to check the local hobby shop nearby sometime soon to see if they have any drawbars or honestly anything else useful for this and if not I'll just order one and see what I can do! Whether or whether not I fully "get into" this hobby I would love to get this train up and running smoothly! Thanks again for the clear and concise help everyone.
 
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