Clean Those Wheel!


Wow! I started this thread just to poke fun at myself, but you all have been posting some great information! Thanks all! I haven't had time to get back down to my layout for a cleaning, so now I've got some great ideas about what to do when I get to it!
 
There are DIFFERENT types of 'wd-40'. The 'civilian' kind has no lubricant in it and is just a water displacer (hence the w-d), The GOOD stuff has silicone in it and is the kind Navy Seals use on their weapons, THAT is the stuff you want, it comes in a BLACK can!
 
Try using a piece of cork roadbed for a "milder" cleaning of your track. It's less harsh on the track surface than a block cleaner and still does a nice job of cleaning track.

Greg
 
new guy said:
There are DIFFERENT types of 'wd-40'. The 'civilian' kind has no lubricant in it and is just a water displacer (hence the w-d), The GOOD stuff has silicone in it and is the kind Navy Seals use on their weapons, THAT is the stuff you want, it comes in a BLACK can!
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In that case I wouldn't use the "Military" stuff because of the silicone. Very slippery stuff that silicone.
 
The only issue I see using WD40 is that it tends to attract gunk. I may well clean well, initially, but I think you would need to clean more often. I use 91% alcohol and paper towel and that does a very good job and wont attract gunk.
 
wombat457 said:
The only issue I see using WD40 is that it tends to attract gunk. I may well clean well, initially, but I think you would need to clean more often. I use 91% alcohol and paper towel and that does a very good job and wont attract gunk.
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I have not really run on this long enough to worry about it but I'm leaning towards the alcohol. LOL!
 
I use the no-ox version by Bar Mills. I haven't cleaned track in years unless I get something on it during construction. Once and done unless you get paint or plaster on the rail. Then I use an abrasive pad to remove the problem and reapply the no-ox. When I have a stall it means I either need to power a frog or solder a jumper on an turnout.

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RBMNfan said:
I use the no-ox version by Bar Mills. I haven't cleaned track in years unless I get something on it during construction. Once and done unless you get paint or plaster on the rail. Then I use an abrasive pad to remove the problem and reapply the no-ox. When I have a stall it means I either need to power a frog or solder a jumper on an turnout.

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I am unfamiliar with the term "no-ox version by Bar Mills". Sounds like a winner but I have not a clue what you are referring to. I've only been heavy into trains for a year. Had a set EONS ago and just heard abut DCC last year when I happened to have a bit to spend on it. I'm 'broke' again and have to build on it bit by bit but I got a heck of a 'running start'. (499 square feet of area to work with!) I don't know much and am listening to those who KNOW!
 
new guy said:
I am unfamiliar with the term "no-ox version by Bar Mills". Sounds like a winner but I have not a clue what you are referring to. I've only been heavy into trains for a year. Had a set EONS ago and just heard abut DCC last year when I happened to have a bit to spend on it. I'm 'broke' again and have to build on it bit by bit but I got a heck of a 'running start'. (499 square feet of area to work with!) I don't know much and am listening to those who KNOW!
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Here ya go NG. http://www.model-railroad-infoguy.com/no-ox.html
 
Thanks, typical, discontinued. There was a salve made in Windsor Canada, RUNDLES SALVE, it was THE best salve I EVER saw but it was like that , it lasted so long everybody only ever bought one and they went out of biz.
 
Haha. I had no idea. Although the container I have will be a lifetime supply for me. It's repackaged No-ox which is a product that prevents corrosion on aluminum wire connections. You can buy it at electrical supply stores.

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RBMNfan said:
Haha. I had no idea. Although the container I have will be a lifetime supply for me. It's repackaged No-ox which is a product that prevents corrosion on aluminum wire connections. You can buy it at electrical supply stores.

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I'm on the HUNT!
 
I find regularity trumps all else... I use 70% alcohol in a CMX car and that's really it. I don't clean wheels. I just run the CMX car around the entire layout a few times (maybe 10-12 circuits) every-other time I operate - call that bi-weekly. The wheels stay clean since they (essentially) are 'burnished' by the clean track. The wheel gunk comes onto the track, the track gets cleaned by the CMX, repeat. Bottom line, if you don't let the track/wheels get really crudded up to start with, just mild/regular cleaning keeps things copacetic. (I'm 100% DCC FWIW, and agree DCC is more 'sensitive' to track dirt than DC).
 
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