Building the Pinnacle Creek Mining & Timber Co. RR


waltr, Even on the flat terrain you can do this style. The only difference is you only drop off the table/layout edge about 2 inches. Make the slope about 45 degrees cover with bushes not trees. The layout becomes about an inch wider on the affected sides. That's not too bad. The pay offs are in photography, and the 'that's cool' effect from your train buddies. Good question. Jim :)
 
Thanks fellows. Yes, waltr it will work.

More Private Mail: I got a PM questioning the prototypicality of 'rails on logs. So here is a photo that should put any inquiring minds to rest.

IMG_3039.JPG

About prototypical modeling. You've read this thread, hopefully;), all the way through. I haven't mentioned this before because I'm not keen on the topic. That is rivet counting. This is not my style. Frankly I'm a bit embarrassed by my lack of knowledge prototypical railroading. I just like to do scenery. I like more and more scratch building and I've always liked to kit bash.

I envy those who can build a GP-9 from scratch, with ditch lights and cut levers, or whatever they are. Not me. Not my thing. Good for them though. Rivet counters can live their model railroading life without my interest as well. There are many facets to our hobby and that is a good thing. Room for everyone.

Another good point about prototypical modeling is that can it really be done? I don't mean that GP-9, I mean actually modeling a town scene with track and trains and nothing out of place? I'd love to see a side by side picture of that! My point is something will always be "out of place" when modeling prototypes. I guess the term and the concept doesn't get me excited. Kudos to those who give it a try.

I model railroads I think up from between my ears. I draw simple track plans that make my ideas work. I build my own bridges! Can't get farther away from prototypes than that. My favorite part of this great hobby is the part that allows me to do it my way. If you voyeurs want to copy me I don't mind. I would love to see someone come up with the pier, dock, engine house, and ore tipple scene. May look better than mine! Then I can learn something. It is all good. Jim:)
 
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The photo archive of logging RRs I posted a link to does show the many different ways these RRs were built. This and other photo archives are well worth spending time looking at and studying for the details of how things were done and what they looked like.

In another forum where a good number of the members kit-bash and scratch build someone always questions the prototypicality of the model, particularly the 'critter' vehicles and cars (like Jim's 1/2 caboose) then someone else posts a photo showing that it had been done, especially with frontier and backwoods RRs where they used what they had to build what they needed. So if you can think of it, it probably was done somewhere.
 
More Private Mail: I got a PM questioning the prototypicality of 'rails on logs. So here is a photo that should put any inquiring minds to rest.

For those that are sending HOexplorer PMs or have a question for him. Please just post the questions you have for all of us to read so everyone can learn these things. The answers get posted for everyone anyways so sending PM's with layout questions is a moot point to begin with.
 
Thanks fellows. Anything to make modeling less painful is the name of the game.

ChevelleSSguy, brings up a good point. I was wondering about 'anonimity' of the PM route myself. In their defense, some folks don't want to put themselves out there because their question may make them feel uncomfortable. I've only had three or four and only answered one privately. (It was personal)

Anyway, I almost always get these PM answered for the public so no one is really getting gipped. I will concede that it is more fun when all the questions are 'out front,' but either way is ok with me.

Off to senior softball now, but next up is Another Look at Accessories. Jim:)
 
About 'Accessories.' I don't think you can have too many. Stuff like rusting oil drums and stacks of wood can do wonders for your layout.

In the photo below we see the mining camp. The photo is 12" deep by 8" wide. Let's go through this from the water tank in the upper left and go anti-clockwise and look for accessories: A pipe leading to a trough filled with water; on the left building, a table with trash and a couple of small oil drums; boxes on the scratch built loading dock; rusty oil drums; wood for the cook's stove; a tank; milk cans; a new barrel; a figure; chimneys and vent system; coal shed; a cluttered work bench; two color path representing imported gravel; and curtains in the workers bunk houses.
This is all inside less than a square foot of space. Take some of these accessories away and you're scene may be less convincing.

accessories.jpg


Is this scene finished? No, actually I'm always adding stuff I find on epay and on other sites. The layout is now finished, but if you want to go that next step towards making it as real as you can you will always be adding to your layout. Jim:)
 
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Gary, Correct, more junk the better. Especially, when modeling scenes and layouts before the 70's. As environmental issues became more prominent I suppose we could see 'less' clutter in real life than we did in 1931 for example. While I don't subscribe to actual litter, I will say, that for the most part many of our layouts are modeled a bit too clean.

I've done a few small town layouts in my time and I must admit there was little in the way of litter. How small would a crumpled up piece of paper be in Z or N scale? Now that I'm in HO I notice I'm less likely to pick some small "foreign" objects off the layout. I just leave them. It always amazes me to actually see 'stuff' appearing on the layout. I have no clue where it comes from. If it looks 'real' or believable I will generally just leave it there. Jim :)
 
for example look at george selliois franklin and manchester one of my favorite layouts.it not is not like u-r polluteing the real world. excuse my spelling i think your are doing a wonderful job
 
Thanks Gary. I tried to find photos of the layout you described. No luck. Do you have a link? I'm always a fan of examples of other folks efforts. Jim:)
 
Thanks waltr, If I only had a million instead of $750 per month SS check! Not to mention the space. I guess I have seen this great layout years ago, I simply forgot about it. It's good to see a fine example of a more urban evironment. Jim :)
 
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Thanks Gary.

About Kits.

Kits come in all shapes, sizes, materials and luckly for us different items. From outhouses to skyscraper there is bound to be a kit of it that has been made. We've talked about those wonderful laser kits and about resin kits. That sort of leaves us with plastic and wood kits.

For my modeling, 1931, wood fits right in. Plastic on the other hand does not excite me for my modeling period or any other. Many modelers using plastic fall back on those days they were 10 years old putting together plastic models. I did it. Great fun! What was good for a preteen in 1955 doesn't excite me much when I see the plastic building offerings available today. Many of us have them. The standard yard tower, the station, the corner drugstore, the list seldom stops.

To me I get uncomfortable not feeling that I'm looking at something legit when I go over to my friend's house and look at his small town. A couple buildings are 4 stories and that's it. The trouble I see is that the plastic models seldom reflect 'realism.' They tend to be shiney, very unprototypical. Of course, glass is glass, but I think you know what I mean. I've seen plastic stations on modules at the trainshow that make me want my $8 back!

Luckly there is a small simple solution to this shine issue. I don't expect everyone to repaint there plastic stuff, but this tip may help. After you have assembled/glued your model together let it dry overnight. Then the next day give the model a light wash of acrylic black or dark grey. Let dry over night. If need be add another wash. After the washes I like to add some weather using powders. Downtown I use black and on the edge of down maybe some dark browns.

If you read this and say, 'all my buildings are glued to the layout.' No problem. Fold a paper towel into a flatish tube and circle your building. Do your washes, throw the towels away. Weathering with powders is simple. If you spill this is a good time to lay down more ground covers you've been promising to do since you started reading this thread!

If I was a better painter I might be more acceptable to plastic. Buildings are tough projects to redue so many just sort of leave them with additional weathering. The one plastic product I do like are the bridges. I like to build them and I like them on my layouts. Brass is cool, but very expensive. I've built them in Z scale and I liked them.

Finally wood. For me and my modeling era wood is great. I model the back woods so not much brick about for sure. Wooden kits, to me, are really fun and worth the time when measured with the final result. They are fun to weather with washes and powders and I'm always challenge to find a better way to make them looks real.

A caution: Regular wooden kits, not laser kits, usually come with some designator that gives you a hint to difficulty. If the kit says 'Craftsmen' anywhere on the box you will simply get the approximate amount of sticks and probably suspect directions to put the kit together. NOT for the beginner for sure! Sounds like you should just scratch build. If 'Craftsman' is missing and your not a 'craftsman' then give the kit a try. It won't be as easy as a laser kit, but it will be doable for most.

I've mentioned I have one laser kit on the layout. I also have only one wooden kit. It is a great one. The Branch Line Water Tower. This took many hours, but it was worth it. If one was able to look through the hatch opening you would see I put in a layer of Realistic Water. I couldn't help it. Jim:)

water tower.jpg
 
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jim all of your structures look great to me i like to use the plastic kits on my ho but i really change them a lot with paint and washes and powder.i have used several plaster kits on my on30 mods with good results. also a few scratch bilt on the mods. i am not much into the scratch bld. though i like all my stuff to look old and crusty like me
 
Gary thanks. Hey, if I was building a city or small town and plastic was the only medium available you better believe I would use it! I was raised in a city and grew up in the outdoors. Luckly I enjoy modeling what I know.

I have an NMRA open house this weekend. I will be the only layout this Sat. 12-3 if any of you are in the San Diego area. I better go clean my track. Jim :)
 



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