Building My First Layout

[Marlin338MX]

This is a work in progress, so please be patient.

I'll start with a little backstory... My dad died in 2002. I inherited roughly half of my dad's model railroad stuff, to include track, locomotives from many different eras, rolling stock and landscaping supplies. I believe he bought this stuff in the 1990's, but I had no idea he was buying all this stuff. I was in the Army at the time of his untimely death (I served 20 years). I've had 12 cardboard boxes of his model railroad stuff for about 20 years, and I finally opened those boxes back in September. My last layout was a simple HO oval in 1977, I was 10 years old.

My biggest dilemma was where to build a layout that would allow me to use all the stuff in these boxes, which included more than 100 straight track and more than 100 curved tracks (all 18" radius), plus 13 turnouts, more than 60 plastic buildings and nearly 100 railcars, and 4 complete passenger trains (2 are Santa Fe and 2 are Amtrak). I have roughly 22 locomotives ranging from the 1800's steamers to modern diesels. This is in HO scale.

I settled on a layout that is 14ft long, 8ft x 6ft on one end and 4ft x 6ft on the other end. I built the benchwork with 2 and 1/4 sheets of plywood, 1x4" boards, 1x2" boards and 2x4" boards (for the legs). I bought 13 more turnouts, to give me a total of 26. I used the Atlas track planning software. This is in my semi-finished attic.

I'm putting the track on cork roadbed. I ran a a train around the two mainlines last night. I'll finish laying the track tomorrow after I add the last 3 turnouts.

What is the easiest or best way to pull the track up to put the cork roadbed down? I'm open to any and all suggestions. This is all DC stuff, and I believe all of the locomotives and rolling stock are new and unused.

None of the turnouts are wired yet, but they are all Atlas #4 remote snap switches.

Thanks, and stay tuned...

 

[PMW]

First, since it's Veterans' Day I would be remiss if I didn't thank you for your service.

Unless I missed something your track is just loose laid right now (not glued or nailed). Once you're satisfied with the track work (locos and cars run well over it) I would mark all track centerlines and then put all the track aside. I know it's a pain, maybe someone else knows a better way.

Also, it may add about a day or two to the project but have you considered gluing some extruded foam to the plywood for sub roadbed? It is easy to add foam for terrain above track level and it's easy to carve into to create terrain below track level.

 

[Marlin338MX]

First, since it's Veterans' Day I would be remiss if I didn't thank you for your service.

Unless I missed something your track is just loose laid right now (not glued or nailed). Once you're satisfied with the track work (locos and cars run well over it) I would mark all track centerlines and then put all the track aside. I know it's a pain, maybe someone else knows a better way.

Also, it may add about a day or two to the project but have you considered gluing some extruded foam to the plywood for sub roadbed? It is easy to add foam for terrain above track level and it's easy to carve into to create terrain below track level.

Thank you!

Yes, the track is laid loose on the plywood right now. I've considered using extruded foam for a sub roadbed.

Is it common practice to use something like cork roadbed on top of the foam sub roadbed?

I'll be adding a waterfront along one edge of the layout, with a shrimp boat, a charter fishing boat and dockside buildings, so using the 2" thick foam will allow me to make the water on the plywood. My other thought was to add a 1ft wide section that sits about 2" lower than the current plywood level, and that would be the water level.

Always open to suggestions. I'm in no hurry to finish this project. I'd rather take my time and do it right the first time.

 

[FeatherRiver]

This is a work in progress, so please be patient.

I'll start with a little backstory... My dad died in 2002. I inherited roughly half of my dad's model railroad stuff, to include track, locomotives from many different eras, rolling stock and landscaping supplies. I believe he bought this stuff in the 1990's, but I had no idea he was buying all this stuff. I was in the Army at the time of his untimely death (I served 20 years). I've had 12 cardboard boxes of his model railroad stuff for about 20 years, and I finally opened those boxes back in September. My last layout was a simple HO oval in 1977, I was 10 years old.

My biggest dilemma was where to build a layout that would allow me to use all the stuff in these boxes, which included more than 100 straight track and more than 100 curved tracks (all 18" radius), plus 13 turnouts, more than 60 plastic buildings and nearly 100 railcars, and 4 complete passenger trains (2 are Santa Fe). I have 22 locomotives ranging from the 1800's steamers to modern diesels. This is in HO scale.

I settled on a layout that is 14ft long, 8ft x 6ft on one end and 4ft x 6ft on the other end. I built the benchwork with 2 and 1/4 sheets of plywood, 1x4" boards, 1x2" boards and 2x4" boards (for the legs). I bought 13 more turnouts, to give me a total of 26. I used the Atlas track planning software. This is in my semi-finished attic.

I'm putting the track on cork roadbed. I ran a a train around the two mainlines last night. I'll finish laying the track tomorrow after I add the last 3 turnouts.

View attachment 176730

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What is the easiest or best way to pull the track up to put the cork roadbed down? I'm open to any and all suggestions. This is all DC stuff, and I believe all of the locomotives and rolling stock are new and unused.

None of the turnouts are wired yet, but they are all Atlas #4 remote snap switches.

Thanks, and stay tuned...

Hello! Looks like you are getting off to a great start! The Benchwork looks very sturdy.

May I make a suggestion (based upon my experience with three MRR Layouts):
You stated that you are planning to use cork roadbed. I did the same with my past three layout projects; however I won't repeat that procedure with my 4th Layout. Placing cork directly onto plywood and then the track on cork didn't work for me with regard to "noise".

Somewhere in my "Bookmarks" on my computer I saved a comment by a person who does Benchwork and Modular platforms.
He suggested using some type of "foam" (I think it was), laid down on the plywood, then the track. I don't think he uses cork at all.
I will find this information and get back to you as soon as I can.

 

[PMW]

Thank you!

Yes, the track is laid loose on the plywood right now. I've considered using extruded foam for a sub roadbed.

Is it common practice to use something like cork roadbed on top of the foam sub roadbed?

I'll be adding a waterfront along one edge of the layout, with a shrimp boat, a charter fishing boat and dockside buildings, so using the 2" thick foam will allow me to make the water on the plywood. My other thought was to add a 1ft wide section that sits about 2" lower than the current plywood level, and that would be the water level.

Always open to suggestions. I'm on no hurry to finish this project. I'd rather take my time and do it right the first time.

I don't know how common it is but I use roadbed on top of the foam for the contour of real life roadbed. It also makes my mainline a bit higher than the yard tracks.

I like the idea of adding another section a couple of inches below for the water. I added a 1' x 3' section 5" below the rest of my benchwork for my water scene and think it looks cool. What about the rest of the scenery? Just my opinion, an easy way is by having a foam base.

Good luck and keep posting your progress!

 

[migalyto]

Thats a great start you have!

If the rest of the build is reminiscent to how well your benchwork is built, you will have a beautiful layout!

Defiantly keeping an eye on this one.

 

[Marlin338MX]

Thanks for the kind words and suggestions!

Living in northern NY, fall is one of my favorite seasons. So I plan on doing a section with fall colored trees. In another section I'd like to add some rocky cliffs with a waterfall. I've got modern houses for a neighborhood, and the "narrow" 3-story downtown buildings that were common in small towns in the early 1900's.

I have a big grain elevator and several other industries to try to fit on this layout.

Since I have so many locos, I'll be parking a lot of them just off the turntable. I'm not buying a roundhouse because it will take up a lot of room, and I'd rather "display" my locos vs hiding them in a roundhouse.

 

[PMW]

Nice! I'm looking forward to your progress.

Some people who have more engines than can run on their layout make nice display cases. I guess they rotate the engines that get layout time. This might free up some layout space for you. Again, just thinking out loud .

 

[FeatherRiver]

Helllo Marlin338MX

Continuing with what I told you in Post #4 of this Thread, here is the information regarding material to use for your track.
The material is Self-adhesive foam, and it is available for HO scale and N scale.

Point your browser to: https://superiormodelrailroads.com/peel-n-stick-road
Just in case you arrive at this website but not this particular page, then from the Home Page click on the drop down menu selection named "More".
You will then see the selection "Peel-n-Stick".

I hope this helps you!
For me, this is the route I'm taking - no more cork for me.

BTW: He explains in detail why this foam material is superior to cork; as well as explaining what causes unwanted noise when laying track on Plywood or Plywood / Cork.

 

[FeatherRiver]

Thanks for the kind words and suggestions!

Living in northern NY, fall is one of my favorite seasons. So I plan on doing a section with fall colored trees. In another section I'd like to add some rocky cliffs with a waterfall. I've got modern houses for a neighborhood, and the "narrow" 3-story buildings that were common in small towns in the early 1900's.

I have a big grain elevator and several other industries to try to fit on this layout.

Since I have so many locos, I'll be parking a lot of them just off the turntable. I'm not buying a roundhouse because it will take up a lot of room, and I'd rather "display" my locos vs than hiding them in a roundhouse.

Regarding your last sentence:
I agree with you! With my new project, e.g., the Feather River Canyon Route of Western Pacific Railway, I will not be building / including Round Houses OR Turntables. Besides 'taking up a lot of room', Turntables can really be difficult to get working reliably and without recurring problems.

I'm interested in how you progress with your current layout project. Will be checking in the future to see how you are making out.

 

[Marlin338MX]

Nice! I'm looking forward to your progress.

Some people who have more engines than can run on their layout make nice display cases. I guess they rotate the engines that get layout time. This might free up some layout space for you. Again, just thinking out loud .

I thought about making a display case for some of the steam locos. I'll use the sidings and spurs for the same purpose, just to try to include as much as I can without causing a cluttered look.

 

[Marlin338MX]

Helllo Marlin338MX

Continuing with what I told you in Post #4 of this Thread, here is the information regarding material to use for your track.
The material is Self-adhesive foam, and it is available for HO scale and N scale.

Point your browser to: https://superiormodelrailroads.com/peel-n-stick-road
Just in case you arrive at this website but not this particular page, then from the Home Page click on the drop down menu selection named "More".
You will then see the selection "Peel-n-Stick".

I hope this helps you!
For me, this is the route I'm taking - no more cork for me.

BTW: He explains in detail why this foam material is superior to cork; as well as explaining what causes unwanted noise when laying track on Plywood or Plywood / Cork.

Thanks for the link. The main reason I chose cork is because I have a full box of it, 25 pieces at 3ft long. Again, just trying to use what I have, not that it's the best option. But I will do my research on that link you sent, and it might change my mind on using cork.

 

[Marlin338MX]

This is the new unopened Bachmann bascule bridge that I found in the boxes of train stuff. I'm using it on the right side of my layout (as you look at the track diagram).

 

[Rico]

I had that model many years ago. (many!)
When weathered, detailed, and used over a river it looks pretty good.
Can't think of a prototype situation that would call for it going over another track but still pretty cool!

 

[Marlin338MX]

I had that model many years ago. (many!)
When weathered, detailed, and used over a river it looks pretty good.
Can't think of a prototype situation that would call for it going over another track but still pretty cool!

I struggled with trying to figure out how and where to add it to my layout. The price tag on the plastic outer wrap was $29.95. I have no idea when or where my dad bought it, and I have no idea how he planned to use it in his model railroad that he never got a chance to build. I'm pretty sure I have a bunch of rolling stock and buildings in my boxes that haven't been made in a long time, and a lot of it is the "plasticville" type stuff.

Like you said, I haven't found a prototype bascule bridge that was built over a set of tracks, but they were commonly seen over waterways.

 

[Marlin338MX]

I have some questions about glueing extruded foam to the plywood...

What are some good choices of glue for attaching extruded foam to the plywood?

Do you use the same glue to glue layers of extruded foam together for landscape?

What technique do you use to apply the glue to the wood, such as using a putty knife to spread the glue around?

How many tubes of glue would I use on 2 and 1/4 sheets of plywood?

Are there pros/cons or advantages/disadvantages to using 1" thick vs 2" thick foam?

Any other tips or suggestions that I might be forgetting to ask about?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Rico]

What are some good choices of glue for attaching extruded foam to the plywood?

I like latex liquid nails, white glue works too.

Do you use the same glue to glue layers of extruded foam together for landscape?

You can yes.

What technique do you use to apply the glue to the wood, such as using a putty knife to spread the glue around?

I use scrap cork, styrofoam, plastic, or an acid brush.

How many tubes of glue would I use on 2 and 1/4 sheets of plywood?

Lots! that totally depends on how much foam, how thick the glue goes on, etc.

Are there pros/cons or advantages/disadvantages to using 1" thick vs 2" thick foam?

Yes, 1” layers are easier to shape or cut down but 2” builds up your elevation faster.

Any other tips or suggestions that I might be forgetting to ask about?

Don’t glue anything down until you’ve test fit everything.
Also you can just glue strips down to build up scenery then use a sheet for the top, in other words hollow opposed to solid foam hills.
I’m sure there’s much more but thats what comes to mind just now.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Marlin338MX]

I like latex liquid nails, white glue works too.

You can yes.

I use scrap cork, styrofoam, plastic, or an acid brush.

Lots! that totally depends on how much foam, how thick the glue goes on, etc.

Yes, 1” layers are easier to shape or cut down but 2” builds up your elevation faster.

Don’t glue anything down until you’ve test fit everything.
Also you can just glue strips down to build up scenery then use a sheet for the top, in other words hollow opposed to solid foam hills.
I’m sure there’s much more but thats what comes to mind just now.

Thank you for the detailed answers, much appreciated!

 

[PMW]

For adding layers of foam to the foam base you can use liquid nails (For Projects because it's compatable with the foam) and use pins to hold it in place until the caulking sets up. I use hot glue because it dries very quickly. I believe low temp is indicated for foam.

 

[Marlin338MX]

I have all the track laid down loosely. I still have to cut a few pieces of track to custom length so that everything fits correctly.

This might not be the final track plan because I have to try to make some other working rail stations and crossings fit. Such as these;

and these;

and these

There are other things like 4 petroleum storage tanks and a grain elevator that aren't assembled yet. Obviously, some of the stuff I have is not going to fit on my layout.