Begineer needs help (Detailing GP9)

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


jkchubbes

New Member
A few years back I got the idea to try and detail the Wathers Trainline GP9M into one of the GP9s the local SJVR uses, like the one in this picture.
http://www.trainweb.org/KernJunction/sjvr/99012502.jpg

Is there any company that would make a correct cab for this, my model has a single piece window and the prototype is a double window. How could I do the sill above the fuel tank. Would I just cut it into shape. The louvers are also wrong on the model compared to the prototype, how could I add another set of louvers and take one out, is it possible? My last question is as you can tell in the photo I went to town on it trying to remove the winterization hatch which isint on the prototype, is there a way I can patch that?

file.php


file.php


Also what is a good book to start to learn this stuff?


-Jacob Klatt
J.K. Chubbes Railroad Photography
 
Is there any company that would make a correct cab for this, my model has a single piece window and the prototype is a double window.
Not really. You might be able to use a Proto 2000 GP20 cab, but I think it had a single too. You can trim out the middle and use the center from a Cannon & Co cab kit though.

How could I do the sill above the fuel tank. Would I just cut it into shape.
That is correct. Thats how I did it on my Cargil GP9.

The louvers are also wrong on the model compared to the prototype, how could I add another set of louvers and take one out, is it possible?
Yes, trim off the old ones. I think Plano model products has the louvers.

My last question is as you can tell in the photo I went to town on it trying to remove the winterization hatch which isint on the prototype, is there a way I can patch that?
Styrene over the spot (if you left a hole), fill with putty, and file smooth. Then add 36" fans from Details West, Detail Associates, or Cannon (there may be others too...). Actually, now that I look at it, it looks like it has a 48" fan where the winterization hatch was, and also on the dynamic brake.

Also what is a good book to start to learn this stuff?
Kalmbach has a book called diesel detailing projects. Try these 5 different books:
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...iling_Projects_Prototype_Modeling_in_Ho_Scale
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/..._for_the_Diesel_Modeler_Diesel_Modelers_Guide
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...to_Detail_Diesel_Locomotives_Model_Railroader
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...lroadings_Guide_to_Modeling_Detailing_Diesels
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/..._for_the_Diesel_Modeler_Diesel_Modelers_Guide

Also, the key, is to ask here, if you're unsure. There's a ton of first class detailers here.
 
Thanks for the help. I have another question now, if you look on the photo of my cruel winterization hatch removal, my knife slipped and cut a small line back to the rear, can I repair that?
 


I could not see the pics, you had to be a member there. Could you upload them here? If you click the "Go Advanced" button below the reply, there's an attachments section.
 
Though it is fairly beat up (cut & the number boards) you should be able to salvage it with some putty. However, I did not know this before, and if you're not picky, it does not matter at all but thats is what we refer to as a "wide body", the body being slightly wider then the prototype, so that the older motors would fit.
 




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top