Bankng turns


N-gager

Member
Anybody bother to bank curves? I have 2 at the bottom of steep inclines I'm thinking about doing some "match-stick" work on.
 
Anybody bother to bank curves? I have 2 at the bottom of steep inclines I'm thinking about doing some "match-stick" work on.

I've used this technique on the "new" JJJ&E.

new_1290.jpg
 
In N scale, I think a match stick would be way to much superelevation. Maybe about half a match stick thickness.
 
Maybe he want to run BULLET trains, at a 200+mph?I have several high speed trains myself. A couple bullet trans & a TGV.Maybe I should bank a curve or two for my Kato powered DCC run-away Cabooses.
 
Unlike the prototype, super-elevation is not needed on our models, but it does make some track look good. You have to be careful when you start the super-el so it not an abrupt start, which can cause the trains to derail. The best method I've seen to start the super-el, is to securely glue down a strip of cardboard, on the outside of the curve, at least 1/8 the length of the curve. The cardboard needs to be the thickness that the super-el will be. When dry, sand the cardboard down from the high end until it feathers out to nothing at the end where you want the super-el to start.

I've also seen layers of tape used, but it may not be as smooth as the cardboard. A mistake that many modelers make is they make the super-el too steep. Its very easy to do this. I was taught that anything thicker than a paper match from a book of matches is too much. Since I learned this for use with HO, I would think 1/2 this thickness would be good for N scale.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have super elevated the curves on my main line and like Carey says, they do look better, but is not necessary. My minimum radius is 32 inches and I do like the appearance. I used the cookie cutter method and actually super elecated the plywood base using a level.
 
I have super elevated the curves on my main line and like Carey says, they do look better, but is not necessary. My minimum radius is 32 inches and I do like the appearance. I used the cookie cutter method and actually super elecated the plywood base using a level.

I finished with the super-elevated curves this afternoon. Didn't do all the curves. Just the ones I thought could use it. Found some thin plastic shims at the hardware that made it pretty simple. They were just the right height. Since I'm using EZ track, I just slipped the shim on the correct rail before I glued the track down. Not much elevation but does look better.
 



Back
Top