Ballasting Switches


L

LIRR272

New Member
I'm starting to ballast the track and switches leading to my clubs enigne house. I have read that when ballasting switches, make sure the points of the switches are free of the bonding agent, and to operate the switches to insure they move freely.

If you apply very little ballast (up to the bottom of the ties), how can you prevent the bonding agent from interfering with the points? Addtionally, if you apply the bonding agent at night, how do you insure the agent will not dry and prevent movement of the points? Is there another way of preventing the agent from interfering with the points while still adhering to the ballast?

Lamont
 
I use green painter's tape in thin strips to cover both the throwbar and headblocks, and the pivot point if there is one (most commercial turnouts have a pivot point partway along the points rails). I press the tape well down against the webs of the rails and make sure it seals the tops of the ties and blocks. Then, I carefully sprinkle and spread the ballast materials taking great pains to not get any closer than the edges of the tape. Once I have the ballast groomed, I dribble isopropyl alcohol to wet the ballast and kill the surface tension, and then add diluted yellow glue with water and a bit of detergent, the latter also to bust surface tension. I only lightly glue the turnouts, no matter how close the ballast is to the head blocks and pivots on the points. I only want to keep a crust atop the surface to keep it all in place. If I have to remove the turnout to service or to replace it, I only want to have to wet the ballast and to be able to slide back the joiners and lift it out.
 
I've spread the ballast very thinly as Crandell says, but instead of using tape, I "paint" on a light oil, like the ATF I use to lubricate my locos with. The oil won't allow the glue to adhere to any surface its on. Its quick and easy. After the glue has dried, I just wipe the oil off of the rails and the points. If by chance any glue has adhered to a moving part, just throwing the points back and forth will break this bond and I'm back in business.
 
Sometimes I use duct tape (the real stuff made of metal) on the bottom of the switch.
I tape the switch from the bottom, flip it over and press the ballast in from the top.
In certain situations I've also applied glue to the roadbed then layed the switch onto it and pressed ballast into it.
I prefer the first option since the switch can still be removed if needed.
 
Lamont:

Around the moving parts of a turnout, I just use loose ballast and then never worry about fouling up the moving parts or contact points. Just don't vacuum in these areas. Looks fine and has lasted a long time.

Thanks,

Greg
 
I apply the ballast a little bit at a time then the wet water then the glue with an eye dropper to make sure it doesn't get in the points or moving parts.
 
I centre the point blades using those coloured stick-pins and apply my glue mixture around the point with an eyedropper. I found by not having the point blades resting against adjoining rails they are far less likely to get stuck/glued/bonded in place.
 
For turnouts (HO).. I mix up a small batch of of ballast/water/white-glue , and apply it as though I were grouting a complex piece of tile, a little bit at a time.. using a toothpick and an Exacto knife to carefully control where the "pre-glued" ballast will set. Then (before it sets), use alcohol-soaked Q-tips to clear any glue seepage from rails and points..
 
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