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I bought some backdrops from Senicking several months ago and applied them to my module backboards. I used Gorilla spray adhesive for the stick.
The backboards were painted a skyblue with latex paint.
They looked great after the application process, and I let them sit for awhile before wrapping them up in protective moving blankets for transport to train shows with the modules.
When I unwrapped them at the first show, the paper had separated from the backboards in quite a few places giving it a terrible look. In a lot of places, the scenery paper is stuck hard to the backboard and began tearing when I tried to separate it.
They looked so bad I almost didn't want to display them.
How can I fix this problem without tearing the paper?
Since you used gorilla glue, I do not think there is a fix.
I had a similar problem with my purchased backdrops, over time wrinkles would show up, even when using a water based glue. In this case, I was affixing the backdrop to hardboard according to the instructions. That is why I went over to using kraft paper and hanging it (suspending it from top). It minimized the wrinkling. It looked great if I kept my handling to a minimum.
However, each time I moved it, wrinkles would develop. It is a one-and-done backdrop.
Dave LASM
I can't recover the photopaper from the backboard. I contacted the vendor and he will sell me a replacement sent at about 30% off.
He suggested I use foamcore instead of the Masonite that I'm currently using. Apparently, the Masonite flexes to much which causes the paper to come loose from the Latex.
I thought using Gorilla glue would keep the paper intact, but this mush be the weak version along the lines of Post-it notes sticky. Some parts of it are stuck solid and the paper will actually shred in layers, so I don't know why it actually came loose from the glue in the first place.
I originally applied the Gorilla glue to the backboards as they were lying flat on the table. I applied the photo paper over the glue then used wallpaper brush and roller to ensure the photopaper was captured by the glue. Seemed good when I did it. I stacked the three backboards and put weights on them and left them for a few days to ensure it was a solid grip.
We would mount legal exhibits up to 4’ x 8’. Exhibits were printed on a plotter and we mounted them on foam core.
- Cut foam core to size.
- Roll paper exhibit blank side out. Not real tight
- Spray – 3M spray mount adhesive to entire mount area. Not thick but a even light coat.
- Line up rolled paper to edge of foam core.
- Slowly allow paper to unroll.
- Once completely unrolled, press paper down starting from the center working outwards. Press down, don’t “wipe” and press. This stretches the paper and will cause bubbling and other issues.
- After the paper is pressed into place imagine you have a football field. Start from the 50 yard line working across back and forth across the field pressing the paper down with your palms with a slight twist until you get to the goal lines.
- For us, once the mount is pressed down we would use packing tape to secure the edges. ¼” on the front side, the rest overlaps to the backside. The glossy tape may be an issue in your case.
- It’s kind of tricky but you can do some sample mockups to get a feel for it. After some practice we never had bubbles or defective looking mounts. Mounts are ready immediately and lasted years as long as they were not exposed to moisture or high humidity (in a shed).
It was 3M™ Super 77™ Multipurpose Spray Adhesive that we used.
great. thanks. I've placed an order for a can on Amazon.
It was 3M™ Super 77™ Multipurpose Spray Adhesive that we used.
That is some great adhesive. I've used it a lot for other past projects.
One additional note. Foam core can (likely will) bow. You can do a little research: Gatorboard vs Foam Core.
yeow!!! That Gatorboard is expensive stuff.
I wonder if the 3M adhesive would work on masonite. Or mount the foam core to something more rigid?
I wonder if the 3M adhesive would work on masonite. Or mount the foam core to something more rigid?
Reflecting on how I mounted the existing photopaper on the latex painted Masonite, I only applied the spray to the board and not the paper.
I was concerned about soaking the paper through with the Gorilla glue spray.
I think this next time, I'll apply spray to both paper and board.
I sprayed Super 77 onto Masonite (Hardboard) for my new backdrops. Sprayed directly onto the Masonite only. It all seems to be holding up rather well. Granted, I've only done two 4' sections and they have only been up for about a month.
As for fixing your current situation, the first thought that came to my mind was using an iron. Cover your backdrop with a towel and run the iron over it for a little bit. The heat & pressure might reactivate the glue enough to re-bond in the loose areas. This is a total guess by my brain tells me it's logical. Heat is the enemy of adhesives.
Good idea KB02. I've got nothing to lose with that idea. The backdrop already looks terrible like it is.
I tried a heat gun (normally used for heat shrink tubing) on the backdrop paper and it softened the glue and the paper just lifted right off the latex paint. I could feel the back of the paper where it had bubbled up and there was not tackyness to it. Obviously, the glue wasn't' enough to hold it to the latex.
I'll use the 3m 77 spray this time and apply it to both surfaces.
I sprayed Super 77 onto Masonite (Hardboard) for my new backdrops. Sprayed directly onto the Masonite only. It all seems to be holding up rather well. Granted, I've only done two 4' sections and they have only been up for about a month.
As for fixing your current situation, the first thought that came to my mind was using an iron. Cover your backdrop with a towel and run the iron over it for a little bit. The heat & pressure might reactivate the glue enough to re-bond in the loose areas. This is a total guess by my brain tells me it's logical. Heat is the enemy of adhesives.
I like this idea. I have two questions: What is the heat range for the iron, and did you use a washcloth? I will figure out the rest as I go.
Thanks
Pep
I would be leery of the iron as you can't see what's happening to the paper until you lift the iron and the towel. The iron can leave scorch marks pretty easy.
That's why I opted to use the heat gun.
I'm not talking much more than a (med/ high) warm, for me, a heat gun. And know this because I own one. The Heat is harder to control, where the iron offers a temp set that can be raised or lowered in increments, plus it has a flat work area.
Pep
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